Front end overhaul

[Bodageta1995]

I installed the new moog upper arms as well. Would I do it again, absolutely, fit great, worked great, great price, and saved a lot of time. After I installed though I was suprised at how close the stabilizer end links are to the upper control arm. I'm near 100 percent sure it was the same originally but didn't look before disssasemble. I would recommend looking. I found myself comparing the shape of the moog upper arm to the oem just to make sure. Again, I would replace with the moog full upper arm again and I don't think it was a factor but you may be suprised to see the lack of clearance when all reassembled so if you get a chance, document the original clearance.

 

[jaywestfall]

Get stabilizer bar end like for sure. You will possibly need to cut yours to get them off. I would get the stabilizer bar frame bushings too. End links are a pain to install. I just did my front end. Finished two days ago. You don’t have to do it now but I also relaplaced my CV joint axles for $44 each from rock auto. I also bought timken wheel bearing assys for $103 each from eBay. I had the ABS light on and that fixed it and a roar I had when I turned left. Bearings are a quick change anytime though. Pressing the bushings and ball joints out of the lowers was a huge pain. I would recommend a free standing press or take it somewhere to get it done. I pressed mine in and out with a rental from advance auto. FYI, my Moog stabilizer end links the problem solvers were too long and I took them out. Take photos as you go along. An impact tool really helps especially if you use a rented press. Lower aft bushing is too wide for the autozone press. I had to buy threaded rod and washers and nuts to press in and out. Don’t forget renting the torsion bar preload tool. I sprayed paint on my preload bolts to mark how far to install to get same ride height. Mark and or photograph your cam washers on upper arms before removing so you can semi put it back close enough to drive for an alignment. Good luck. Getting in in and out isn’t bad. Pressing the lower arm bushings and bjs are a total pain. Get a $44 harbor freight electric impact tool if you don’t have a compressor or pneumatic. Money well spent. Jack stands and safe to live another day. Get-R-Done. You will love how it drives when done. Sorry for my long winded answer.

Do you have the part number handy for the Timken wheel bearing assemblies?

 

[Coveman]

this is a good time to consider the nbs front brake swap

 

[Ben Burrage]

I would recommend installing a new center link. This will help with steering, and is always missed. While you have it apart, also replace the pitman and idler. I have done several of these. When you replace the stabiliser links, put bolt in from bottom, and use a bottle jack under the bolt to get it up enough to put the nut on. Make sure to grease all the bushings you can with some good grease as well. It is not that bad of a job. I have a 97, and know it well. Hit me up if you have any questions.

 

[Ben Burrage]

One more thing. Get the poly tie rod end boots. You will not regret it. They’re very inexpensive on Rock Auto. Install them on the Moog tie rods.

 

[stresstest]

I did all of these parts in mine last summer, all moog as well. Believe it or not, no one could touch Amazon's price
She drives new now

 

[Schurkey]

"I" would at least check the condition of the parts before ordering new. But I'm cheap that way.

And how are the main sway-bar bushings? Poly bushings are a nice upgrade. I'd have installed Poly control arm bushings and end-links as well.

 

[454cid]

One more thing. Get the poly tie rod end boots. You will not regret it. They’re very inexpensive on Rock Auto. Install them on the Moog tie rods.

Moog tie-rod boots are attached to the tie-rod. There is no way any slip on boot, poly or not, is better than an attached boot. The stock pictures don't show it, but every Moog tie-rod I've gotten for my truck has had the boot attached.

 

[454cid]

I would recommend installing a new center link. This will help with steering, and is always missed.

It's not a wear part and does not need to be replaced unless bent, or the tapers have not been seated correctly, and have wallowed out the holes.

 

[alpinecrick]

It's not a wear part and does not need to be replaced unless bent, or the tapers have not been seated correctly, and have wallowed out the holes.

You're right that the center links last a long time, but if the pitman arm is worn out (which happens often enough) it will wear out the tapered hole in the center link fairly quick.