Finally... My very own build thread.

[Bigg G]

You'll get her done dude just keep whacking !!!!!
I learned the hard way too that PB Blaster w/ an impact tool is the best combo for exhaust manifold bolts.
Had to get my buddy and his ball joint removal kit to R/R my ball joints and he breezed right through the swap
without any issues at all.

 

[Loss4wrds]

I had bought a ball joint tool just for this project and it just didn't get the job done. Also had a 12 ton press and that nearly didn't get it done. Guess after 185k mi they just don't want to come out.

So I was so busy yesterday I didn't even snap a single pic. I got the last ball joint out and put the new one in upside down, assembled the control arms/knuckles and CV's and installed on the truck and was going to stab the shock in when I noticed something wasn't right. So I got to tear all the crap back off flip the ball joint and upper A-arm over and do it again. I also managed to cross thread one of the new stainless brake lines and squirt brake fluid in my eye. DOT 3 fluid burns badly when you get it in your eye FYI...
My dad was nice enough to take the afternoon off work and come help me again yesterday. I think he might have been regretting it by the time he left last night. I was not a happy camper with the progress of the project or having to re-do work because I wasn't paying attention.

On to the update... Installed yesterday: Brake lines, Front Diff, control arms/CV's, front shocks, new tie rod ends, steering center link, torsion bars and drop bracket.

To Do list:
re-check nuts and bolts. tighten tie rod adjusters, bleed brakes, install new accesory belt, block off unused O2 bungs, install y-pipe, exhaust welded, install front drive shaft, front wheels and tires, adjust torsion bars for ride height and clearance, install bed, allighnment.

 

[93-2dr-on20s]

Nice build. Where did you find the Thorley tri-y's and Y pipe for $250?

 

[Loss4wrds]

Got them of ebay they were the 383y2 modle for 88-95 2wd but it worked out great with the lift and the y-pipe is located above my front drive shaft now. Wouldn't have worked at the stock height, but worked great with 6" full drop. I didn't get any pics of the y-pipe and front drive shaft but will. Seller was Ebay Member id: slc1957 Great deals on thorley headers but mine was slow to ship. (over 2 weeks to my door)
http://stores.ebay.com/conleymotorsportsofarizona

 

[Loss4wrds]

Ok here is the first look. Got brakes bled, y-pipe installed, front wheels on and ride height adjusted.
I am using a shop with close neibors so I didn't get to start the truck or test drive it last night.
I will go take it for a spin after work today with open headers and see how she feels.
Drive thru a ditch or two to check for rubbing but at most I am looking at maybe trimming the valence and the inner fender lip to prevent rubbing at full lock and suspension compressed.
Better and more pics to come tonight or tomorrow.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Loss4wrds]

So got to test drive it yesterday. Front end alighnment was close enough to be able to drive it with no problems. Open headers are very loud and had me laughing everytime I touched the gas.
I have an ABS light on now and not sure what is causing it. I also have some sort fluid leak. I thought it was a brake line at first due to the ABS light and the fluid spray in the drivers front fender well area. I snugged the lines and drove it again and had more fluid spray. I had too much dirt and grease on my hands to be able to tell what the fluid is. Could be power steering fluid or possibly the random leak in my radiatior is back. Just couldn't tell. Will have to look into it more.
All in all things seem to be good. I left the sway bar off and you can tell the front is actually flexing a little in one of the pics. From the little I drove it the body roll isn't going to bother me and I will probably leave the sway bar off.
Still have to put the bed back on, get an alighnment, and get the exhaust put on, other than the ABS and fluid issue listed above.
Anyway on to what everyone wants... The pics...

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Loss4wrds]

Ok so I had the following ABS codes. 12, 21, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27

All the codes point to ABS sensors in the wheels except code 12 which I haven't found anywere yet.
So I either killed both sensors beating the ball joints and tie rods off the knuckle or have some other issue. The 2yr warantee on the hub berrings/ABS sensors ended 2 months ago so no free replacement parts.
Anyone know what an ABS code 12 is or anything else I need to check prior to replacing parts?

 

[Loss4wrds]

Been bad sick twice in the last 2 weeks one of which involved a trip the the emergency room so I still haven't wrapped up the project yet.
Still need to get it in for an alignment. Power steering leak has gone away but my A/C exploded this weekend. Driving down the road and the A/C wasn't getting very cold, sudden "Boom-woosh" like I blew out a tire, smoke rolling out behind me. Stop to check things out it looks like something blew out on the backside of the compressor. It is always something.
Got bed installed and put some step bars on it.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[jrp12357]

truck looks awesome. great build

 

[GWKP]

looks dam good!