Door Hinge Sagging - Won't close all the way

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justin93

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So my door doesn't like to close flush, it sits out a good 1/2" from the lines it should be pressed against when the door is shut.
I've already replaced the pin lock nuts and bushings on both top and bottom.. and i tried using the sliding hammer to adjust the door strike receiver but have had no luck with fixing this issue.

Its really annoying because while im driving i can hear/see the door moving in and out and you can hear it move on the striker.

I was wondering if anyone else has had similar issues with your doors (driver side in my case) and how you fixed this?

Only picture i have at this moment, you can barely see how its off. It will rattle and move in between the striker and latch with a good amount of play driving me insane inside the cabin of the truck. I can hear wind on the freeway as well when its at its most opened point.

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I don't want to just throw more parts at it but i got suggestions that said that the welded door hinge was the faulty part in this situation..
I will get pictures after work but would love to hear your guys experiences with or without luck of fixing it i'd widely appreciate it!

Hope to hear from you guys soon :waytogo:
 

94Sierra4x4

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I just want to see a better picture of that front bumper... Hahah! And dual shocks, raised hoop, I like!

The doors on these trucks are notoriously bad. They are heavy as all hell, and the door components take a beating from it.
Heres a write up on replacing door handles and such.. You should be able to find the info you need somewhere down the page.

Edit: The link, doh. :) http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthread.php?123-Door-Handle-and-Door-Pin-Replacement
 
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dagen_1

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I just want to see a better picture of that front bumper... Hahah! And dual shocks, raised hoop, I like!

The doors on these trucks are notoriously bad. They are heavy as all hell, and the door components take a beating from it.
Heres a write up on replacing door handles and such.. You should be able to find the info you need somewhere down the page.

no link... hehe
 

97PROSHOZ71

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Off topic. But nice truck! Do you have a build thread hidden on here somewhere?


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justin93

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Off topic. But nice truck! Do you have a build thread hidden on here somewhere?
Sent from my Vortec Powered iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah i've been transferring all my photo's to my photobucket to upload the images and i am new to gmt400 but have been working on it since i've purchased it in 2011 February.
It's come along ways since when i first bought it, i've done a fair amount of fabrication and most upgrades are done on budget or just craigslist stalking such as that ARB bumper which was initially for a fully tubed Tundra 'Sahara' as to what ARB has claimed it to be. Just tapped and drilled out holes to fit the brackets and im currently refinishing the bumper i just have the top bar done at this point but hope to do the entire bumper to a close-to powder coated finish. Trying to avoid the big cost and take my time prep and finishing it

I purchased the truck because it had a rebuilt motor and transmission with 30k and receipts.
Grandfather owned barn truck used to move bales of hay. It stayed in the family after he passed away and the son no longer had a use for it after putting in a racing driver seat (lol) and an amp and 'sound system'.
Ill build a thread up when i get all my photos from my old camera and phone to capture it's original state.
I take pride in all the work i do because i LEARN how to do things rather then just paying someone to do it.
My goal was to learn and rebuild this vehicle. The whole front drive assembly is all new as well as double u joint borgeson telescoping steering shaft + much more.
Next on the list is installing the IFP fox shocks in the lower shock mount (OEM location) and the 2 rears. Then its regearing it to either 4.56 or 4.88's learning toward 88's
then ill be refinishing all exterior trim to color match the black finish. I have plastidip on my rims but i do so much work that requires taking off my wheels im going to take a weekend and sand them thru the 120-600's then wet sand 800's to 1500's,2000,25000. Just need to research best type of paint for my desired finish (satin black semi gloss with matte clear coat is what im thinking)

Easy for me to get carried away: i need to start a build thread!
As she sits outside the house right now
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Bumper on the truck before lower valance, and adjustment
Before
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Afterin progress w/ matt black primer/paint then matte clear coat.
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Can't decide how i want to redo the bull bar part in the center, then i want to refinish the base of the bumper but am hesitant because it has some rough spots but is nonetheless a NICE finish these bumpers came out the factory with. Decisions decisions..

Back to topic though!

94sierra

I wish i saw that thread before i tackled it on myself ! haha i replaced all of those the roller pin, pin and bushing + striker.
Even the door handles!
However maybe i set the door handles to far out?.. i doubt it but there's always a possibility.

I'll take more in depth pictures when i get home from work.

I've heard from alot of people claiming it was the hinge as i already drilled out those damn old pins and replaced those on both sides. It fixed my passenger side but my driver side still wont shut all the way.

I am open to welding a new hinge on there but was wondering if there are any other suggestions or solutions to fix the notorious sagging door issue or things to inspect before getting to that point of having to cut it off then tac'ing on a new one.

I'll get that build thread up and going real soon after i find the first photos of when i bought the truck.
 

great white

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Try this:

take the cab mount bolt out of you drivers side A pillar mount.

Check to see if the hole in the mounting tab has rotted a bit and allowed the cab bushing to drop through.

This allows the cab to "rack" and throws everything out of alignment.

This usually happens more commonly in "rust belt" trucks, but it is fairly common. Most giys misdiagnose it and end up trying to bend the hinges, jack the doors, etc.

All of which just damage the structure.

Check it out, it's just one bolt....
 

justin93

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Try this:

take the cab mount bolt out of you drivers side A pillar mount.

Check to see if the hole in the mounting tab has rotted a bit and allowed the cab bushing to drop through.

This allows the cab to "rack" and throws everything out of alignment.

This usually happens more commonly in "rust belt" trucks, but it is fairly common. Most giys misdiagnose it and end up trying to bend the hinges, jack the doors, etc.

All of which just damage the structure.

Check it out, it's just one bolt....

Interesting.. i'll look into this when i get back to my truck.

Don't know what 'Rust belt' is but before i DA'd the whole chassis and refinished and coated it there was some rust so

Thanks for the tip i haven't read that one before, it beats busting out the welder thats for sure!
 

1997chevydriver

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Interesting.. i'll look into this when i get back to my truck.

Don't know what 'Rust belt' is but before i DA'd the whole chassis and refinished and coated it there was some rust so

Thanks for the tip i haven't read that one before, it beats busting out the welder thats for sure!

Rust belt trucks are trucks that live in any state/province that uses salt on the roads during the winter
 
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