Searched for threads about fixing Cruise Control; saw nothing with photos regarding the multi-function stalk.
Among the many things that didn't work on the '89 K1500 I'm borrowing was the Cruise Control. I have an "official GM" Service Manual for my '88; this manual must be an early edition as the copyright date is from '86. There are numerous errors in this manual.
Like a silly sot, I followed the diagnostic procedure as laid out in the Service Manual and--after correcting the procedure so that it made sense--I discovered that I'd have saved a heap of time and aggravation if I'd just looked at the damn wires coming out of the "multifunction" stalk, (Turn signal lever) which is the usual cause of cruise problems along with mis-adjusted brake switches.
Replacing the switch is easy. Service Manual calls for a "special tool" which is "music wire" with a little plastic shield at the end. I used three feet of MIG-welding wire (.035) which worked wonderfully. I have no doubt that thinner welding wire would work just as well. There's no real strain on it. Better to have extra length than to be short, as you're going to lose several inches from the end half-way through the procedure.
Find the Cruise Control connector which is pretty-much directly under the steering column. It may be clipped to a piece of sheet metal, although it wasn't on this truck when I got to it.
Pull the white locking tab just enough to yank the connector apart. The connector will have a hole in it where you loop the wire through, and twist it so it's secure.
At this point, yank the turn signal/cruise/wiper stalk out of the switch buried in the steering columm--just give it a pull. Keep a little tension on the wire as you pull the wire harness up the steering column and out the side. I had the wire harness get stuck a couple inches up the column, so I dropped the two screws on the trim panel directly under the column, removed a white plastic harness protector that's about six inches long, and fed the wire through. A couple of gentle pulls got it to move past the obstruction. Eventually, all the harness is free of the column leaving only the "special tool" MIG wire, which is used to pull the new harness down the column. If you're waiting for the electrician, or someone like him, they call this "fishing".
Clip off the twisted section of wire from the old harness connector. Loop the virgin end of the MIG-wire through the connector hole on the new switch's harness, and twist it as before. Wrap with some electrical tape. This helps to "funnel" the new connector back through the steering column.
At this point, you pull the MIG wire at the lower end of the column carefully, and feed the harness into the column from the top. Again, it wanted to jam a couple of inches into the column, I had to wiggle the wire harness a little, and tug on the MIG-wire at the bottom of the steering column, to get it past the obstruction.
Align the tab on the lever with the slot in the steering-column switch, and shove the stalk into place. Remove the tape and MIG-wire, insert the connector into the matching connector body so that the plastic lock engages, clip the assembly to nearby sheetmetal to keep it from falling below the dash. Reinstall the white plastic harness protector, then reinstall the trim panel with two screws directly under the steering column.
Test the cruise control, wipers, high- and low-beam headlights, and turn signals for proper operation. Total replacement time, not including ordering the new switch, a bunch of useless diagnosis, and road-testing the cruise control after the new stalk was installed, was about twelve minutes--maybe less.
Beware of the multiple versions of this switch/stalk. Some are set up for delay wipers, some aren't.
I bought a "discount" switch assembly from Amazon; I paid about $25 instead of the reputable brands which wanted $80 to $160 for a similar "delay wiper" style stalk. I won't make any promises on how long the switch assembly lasts, but for now it's working fine.
Previous to replacing the stalk, I did some re-soldering of the windshield wiper circuit board, detailed previously. While I was in there, I pulled the cover off the cruise module. I saw no solder problems, so I put the cover back on. All my cruise problems were from the broken wires at the stalk. If I were doing it again, though, I'd have put some fresh lube on the geartrain of the cruise mechanism.
Among the many things that didn't work on the '89 K1500 I'm borrowing was the Cruise Control. I have an "official GM" Service Manual for my '88; this manual must be an early edition as the copyright date is from '86. There are numerous errors in this manual.
Like a silly sot, I followed the diagnostic procedure as laid out in the Service Manual and--after correcting the procedure so that it made sense--I discovered that I'd have saved a heap of time and aggravation if I'd just looked at the damn wires coming out of the "multifunction" stalk, (Turn signal lever) which is the usual cause of cruise problems along with mis-adjusted brake switches.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Replacing the switch is easy. Service Manual calls for a "special tool" which is "music wire" with a little plastic shield at the end. I used three feet of MIG-welding wire (.035) which worked wonderfully. I have no doubt that thinner welding wire would work just as well. There's no real strain on it. Better to have extra length than to be short, as you're going to lose several inches from the end half-way through the procedure.
Find the Cruise Control connector which is pretty-much directly under the steering column. It may be clipped to a piece of sheet metal, although it wasn't on this truck when I got to it.
You must be registered for see images attach
Pull the white locking tab just enough to yank the connector apart. The connector will have a hole in it where you loop the wire through, and twist it so it's secure.
You must be registered for see images attach
At this point, yank the turn signal/cruise/wiper stalk out of the switch buried in the steering columm--just give it a pull. Keep a little tension on the wire as you pull the wire harness up the steering column and out the side. I had the wire harness get stuck a couple inches up the column, so I dropped the two screws on the trim panel directly under the column, removed a white plastic harness protector that's about six inches long, and fed the wire through. A couple of gentle pulls got it to move past the obstruction. Eventually, all the harness is free of the column leaving only the "special tool" MIG wire, which is used to pull the new harness down the column. If you're waiting for the electrician, or someone like him, they call this "fishing".
Clip off the twisted section of wire from the old harness connector. Loop the virgin end of the MIG-wire through the connector hole on the new switch's harness, and twist it as before. Wrap with some electrical tape. This helps to "funnel" the new connector back through the steering column.
You must be registered for see images attach
At this point, you pull the MIG wire at the lower end of the column carefully, and feed the harness into the column from the top. Again, it wanted to jam a couple of inches into the column, I had to wiggle the wire harness a little, and tug on the MIG-wire at the bottom of the steering column, to get it past the obstruction.
Align the tab on the lever with the slot in the steering-column switch, and shove the stalk into place. Remove the tape and MIG-wire, insert the connector into the matching connector body so that the plastic lock engages, clip the assembly to nearby sheetmetal to keep it from falling below the dash. Reinstall the white plastic harness protector, then reinstall the trim panel with two screws directly under the steering column.
Test the cruise control, wipers, high- and low-beam headlights, and turn signals for proper operation. Total replacement time, not including ordering the new switch, a bunch of useless diagnosis, and road-testing the cruise control after the new stalk was installed, was about twelve minutes--maybe less.
Beware of the multiple versions of this switch/stalk. Some are set up for delay wipers, some aren't.
I bought a "discount" switch assembly from Amazon; I paid about $25 instead of the reputable brands which wanted $80 to $160 for a similar "delay wiper" style stalk. I won't make any promises on how long the switch assembly lasts, but for now it's working fine.
Previous to replacing the stalk, I did some re-soldering of the windshield wiper circuit board, detailed previously. While I was in there, I pulled the cover off the cruise module. I saw no solder problems, so I put the cover back on. All my cruise problems were from the broken wires at the stalk. If I were doing it again, though, I'd have put some fresh lube on the geartrain of the cruise mechanism.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
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