Cooling system mess...help me out

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Brother Al

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MLX10, sadly, it could very likely be a head gasket going south. There are no signs of water/af in the oil or trans fluid, right?

Oil Cooler... never said deleting it will kill an engine, and yes, millions of vehicles never came with an oil cooler. Deleting it wont cause you to overheat, or make your muffler bearings cook off your blinker fluid... An oil cooler serves a good purpose... extends your oil life, as well as maintain the oil's ability to fully lubricate and cool your bearings when you are working an engine hard. My take on tearing out an otherwise useful oil cooler is comparable to someone tearing out their efi and putting on a carb on because they have an injector problem.
Why remove it when you can just fix it?

Tinfoil Hat... yep, the "composite parts" includes those cheesy GM gaskets, I shouldve written it better... but having replaced few cracked intake manifolds on GM 3.8's... Yes, AF does indeed flow through the plastic Series II 3.8 intake to the throttle body ...and probably the other FWD V6 engines too. On a Series II 3.8, the EGR port goes right through the intake near the throttle body coolant passages in this same area. I would guess the GM engineers musta thought that the AF would sufficiently cool the area, but it slowly cooks the plastic, causing it to crack/melt/fail, whi h readilly allows AF to leak/get pulled directly into the engine. Ive also had to deal with GM's GMs stupid 4.3L Vortec I CPI design... yeah, not a fan of composites.

As for Dex-Cool, I didnt realize GM added some stop leak tabs seperately. My experiences with Dex-Cool are not good. As Id said earlier, it was designed to work in sealed systems, bit when exposed to any kind of air, it readily decomposes and sludges up. Every vehicle Ive had with Dex-Cool has had cooling system problems and sludge. My '03 Blazer had an extended GM warranty, so I left the Dex-Cool in the system, per the dealer's insistance that it was "fine". At a bit before 70K, I noticed I was running hotter than normal... I didnt see any signs of premature oil breakdown (Mobil 1 since 30K) & the AF was full... Dealer said "water pump failure"... This was just before the warranty expired. Not long after it did expire, I lost my heat... I discovered I had a clogged heater core. I personally did a thorough ***** of the system and got a lot of gunk out, then replaced the radiator, thermostat, overflow jug, hoses, and heater core... everything was coated in sludge. Prestone Green went in. My Wife's '07 Trailblazer got the same right after it passed its warranty period. The Wife's 2015 Acadia is a lease, (not buying a "new" vehicle again.) On top of all that, GM had a huge Class Action Lawsuit filed against it and they Lost in 2008. I was part of it, but never got a dime because GM appealed and their bankruptcy killed off whatever settlement money I should have received.
http://www.girardgibbs.com/dexcool/

Sorry for the hijack MLX10... and again, your truck never had Dex-Cool, so if it does now, flush it out really good and put in something better than Dex-Cool (OAT) and use Peak (IAT), or maybe an HOAT-type Coolant (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology), or even Amsoil's AF types (Poly Organic Acid Tech- IIRC its also silicate free) .. just my 50 cents.
 

Brother Al

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PS... just did a follow-up read on Amsoil AF and discovered that all Prestone "Green" is now an "OAT", thus why it can be mixed with Dex-Cool... did not know this, So my extra 25 cents more... Avoid Prestone and use Peak, Sierra, or Amsoil.

Amsoil is indeed a POAT with zero silicates.
 

MLX10

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Yes I haven't touched her in a couple weeks because of work and things. It's not my daily driver. Friday I will be ripping into her again. A couple more flushes then new rad,thermostat, and hoses. Oil seems fresh and full even though it does have a minor oil leak. I'll post after I put her back together again on Friday.
 

MLX10

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Ok so I ripper her apart tonight and discovered what I think is good news! The oil that is coming into my cooling system is indeed from the engine oil cooler. There is still some sediment in the block and heating core but I'm not that concerned with it.

I do have to decide how to deal with this oil issue. Should I delete the oil cooler?

I don't think I want to do that for a couple reasons. 1. I'd rather maintain my cooling system the way it should be and 2. When I'm looking at the oil cooler under my truck it does also seem to be leaking a small amount of oil under the truck.

How much are they and where can I get one? Also how hard is it to replace? Can I do it with basic tools in my driveway?

Let me know what you guys think bc I don't want oil running through my cooling system since I just replaced all hoses, radiator, resivoir tank, and thermostat!
 

Brother Al

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OK, I gotta be the bearer of bad news, but you likely have a bad head gasket, a cracked head, or a cracked block (least likely). There is no way you can have oil in your coolant with a new radiator, not unless you have a leak in the new radiator, there is residual oil still in the system, or there is a leak in the engine. Since you replaced the radiator, the oil cooler isnt your problem. Leaking oil externally from the system is usually caused by a loose oil filter, or the two bolts that hold the oil cooler adapter onto the block are loose, or the oil cooler adapter gasket needs to be replaced (o-ring), or the lines are leaking.

Outside of the engine, the only place oil and coolant can find each other is inside the radiator, and only if the side tank between the oil and coolant has an internal leak, allowing them to mix.

There are 2 types of basic Chevy oil cooler system.

#1.) An adapter is mounted onto where the oil filter would normally be, and the oil filter attaches to the adapter. Oil leaves the adapter, goes into the Driver's side tank of the radiator, is cooled by coolant, then flows back into the adapter.
(This is common on "Northern Sold Trucks" with HD Cooling because the radiator also helps heat up the oil in very cold temps.)

#2.) An adapter is mounted onto where the oil filter would normally be, and the oil filter attaches to the adapter. Oil leaves the adapter, goes into a stand-alone mini radiator, in front of the radiator, then flows back into the adapter.
(This is more common in "West Coast/Desert/Southern Sold Trucks" w/ HD Cooling because the oil doesnt need to get warmed up & during very hot weather, the last thing you want/need is hot coolant trying to cool your hot oil.)

That said, If this was a similar-year fORd big block truck, oil mixing with coolant in the cooler is a very real issue with them because several versions of their oil cooler bring the coolant down into a weird/cheap tin can. The combo of disimilar metals, salt-electrolysis-rot, and additional hoses cut into the main radiator hose (with clamps and tees), leads to coolant and oil leaking everywhere &/or mixing freely when the tin can fails.. (totally stupid design).

These are not my pictures and Yes, the one diagram/schematic below this text is of a 4.3L V6, but its exactly the same...
(4.3L V6 Chevy is a Chevy 350 minus 2 Cylinders chopped off.)
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MLX10

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Ok I jumped the gun here! It was wrong of me to say oil is coming from the oil cooler. Since I put in the new radiator I have not yet drained the system to see if oil is indeed still getting into the coolent. By coolent I mean water. I wanted to test it before I filled with coolent. I've only driven it about 20 miles since I changed out the radiator. This Friday I am going to drain it out and see what it looks like. I don't think any oil is getting into the cooling system but I can't tell for sure bc I've barely driven it and I have water in the cooling system. I don't know how hard it would be to notice water in my oil. Oil seems clean and full. Hopefully water is not getting in there
 

MLX10

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Any updates?

Hey Brother Al, thabks for the reminder. I have still been using water in my cooling system. Great news though! No oil! I've flushed the water out about 4 times since my last post. I gues was the old radiator. Unfortunately the cooling system still has sediment and rust build up. I've flushed it several times, but it still goes brown in 25 miles or so. Can't quite seem to get it clean
 
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