More of a PSA, rather than a parts/equipment replacement.
First, just a little theory.
In a DC system, contrary to a lot of popular belief, the currant actually flows from the negative, (ground,) to the positive, (above ground).
This is why when you have electrical problems, in the big majority of cases it is because of bad ground connections, and this causes high resistance, along with heat, (and heat causes further resistance).
The typical currant flow from your alternator goes like this:
!, Flows thru case, (Aluminum is a poor conductor,) especially oxidized mounting flanges.
2, Then uses a steel bolt, (if it's rusted, than it's a poor conductor also,) to flow thru another poor conducting Aluminum bracket.
3, Then is forced to flow thru an iron engine block, (Iron ain't that great either,) with some more, perhaps rusty bolts, before it finally gets to a cable, to go to the battery negative post.
So, get yourself a length of good copper cable, #4 is good, #2 is better for big alternators.
Connect one of your cable ends directly to one of the alternator mounting bolts, (nice and clean with no rust).
Depending upon which bolt you use, you might want one that's longer,, or use a longer bolt that you can also put a nut on, (lock washer, with washer,) to anchor the cable end.
Now connect the other end of you cable directly to the negative battery post.
This gives a very low resistance path directly from alternator to battery and it will give your system a good charging boost,, and allow the alternator to run cooler temps.
First, just a little theory.
In a DC system, contrary to a lot of popular belief, the currant actually flows from the negative, (ground,) to the positive, (above ground).
This is why when you have electrical problems, in the big majority of cases it is because of bad ground connections, and this causes high resistance, along with heat, (and heat causes further resistance).
The typical currant flow from your alternator goes like this:
!, Flows thru case, (Aluminum is a poor conductor,) especially oxidized mounting flanges.
2, Then uses a steel bolt, (if it's rusted, than it's a poor conductor also,) to flow thru another poor conducting Aluminum bracket.
3, Then is forced to flow thru an iron engine block, (Iron ain't that great either,) with some more, perhaps rusty bolts, before it finally gets to a cable, to go to the battery negative post.
So, get yourself a length of good copper cable, #4 is good, #2 is better for big alternators.
Connect one of your cable ends directly to one of the alternator mounting bolts, (nice and clean with no rust).
Depending upon which bolt you use, you might want one that's longer,, or use a longer bolt that you can also put a nut on, (lock washer, with washer,) to anchor the cable end.
Now connect the other end of you cable directly to the negative battery post.
This gives a very low resistance path directly from alternator to battery and it will give your system a good charging boost,, and allow the alternator to run cooler temps.
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