Caliper rebuild--iron single-piston

[alpinecrick]

I seem to remember that after the core was exchanged I only paid around $15 for a rebuilt unit from the parts store. This was around 5 years ago but the prices couldnt have gone up that much have they?

I'm having this debate with myself right now. RockAuto has AC Delco remans--COATED--with the $7 instant rebate and subtract the core charge will cost me less than $60 for the pair. To rebuild my existing calipers, new piston seals, new pins and sleeves will cost me around $30. It ain't worth it to rebuild them, me thinks.

Shurky,
Are the OEM pins and sleeves with the sleeve that is not removable from the pin worth it? RockAuto wants $18 for EACH--that $72 for all four!

 

[Schurkey]

Shurky,
Are the OEM pins and sleeves with the sleeve that is not removable from the pin worth it? RockAuto wants $18 for EACH--that $72 for all four!

How bad are the ones you have?

I didn't replace mine, on the left side. Polished 'em on the wire wheel, re-lubed, and crammed 'em back in.

But if they'd been missing or rusted worse, I'd have been looking for OEM-style replacements (perhaps at the Treasure Yard.)

 

[alpinecrick]

How bad are the ones you have?

I didn't replace mine, on the left side. polished 'em on the wire wheel, re-lubed, and crammed 'em back in.

But if they'd been missing or rusted worse, I'd have been looking for OEM-style replacements (perhaps at the Treasure Yard.)

What I'm asking is if the OEM's with the "captured" sleeve and pin are any better than the AC Delco or Raybestos that have the sleeve and pin that can be separated?

GM OEM 1791313 vs

AC Delco 18K115

 

[Schurkey]

i'm only rebuilding mine as I haven't done it before so it's worth a shot lol.

Worst part--and therefore the most fun once you've done it enough to be familiar with the process--is inflating the dust seal over the piston when re-assembling. I've started turning the air pressure down to 30--40 psi. The piston and dust seal flubber and vibrate a bit before you get the piston aligned just right so the seal blows over the bottom of the piston. Wear gloves--the piston motion will pound your hand into the pad-area of the caliper.

If the piston is stuck, 130 psi won't blow it out of the caliper. You'll need to thread a grease zerk into the caliper so you can pump the piston out with a grease gun. (Trailblazer two-piston caliper pictured.)

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When removing pistons DO NOT try to "catch" then with your hand. It'll break fingers. Cushion the piston with rags or a block of wood.

The seals may have a "crust" of solidified deposits on them. It peels off with a fingernail. Inspect the seals for cracks or punctures. Any defect and the seals must be replaced.

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If you're dealing with aluminum calipers, expect to dig corrosion out of the seal grooves with a pick. Iron calipers may need to have hardened sludge dug out of the grooves.

Lube the seals and piston with brake fluid before re-assembly.

What I'm asking is if the OEM's with the "captured" sleeve and pin are any better than the AC Delco or Raybestos that have the sleeve and pin that can be separated?

GM OEM 1791313 vs

AC Delco 18K115

My experience is that the chrome--and the rust-resistance--is way better on the OEM-style mounting bolts.sleeves.

 

[454cid]

I'm having this debate with myself right now. RockAuto has AC Delco remans--COATED--with the $7 instant rebate and subtract the core charge will cost me less than $60 for the pair. To rebuild my existing calipers, new piston seals, new pins and sleeves will cost me around $30. It ain't worth it to rebuild them, me thinks.

Shurky,
Are the OEM pins and sleeves with the sleeve that is not removable from the pin worth it? RockAuto wants $18 for EACH--that $72 for all four!

I'm not sure why it would cost you that much, unless you're trying to use only GM OEM parts, and that's probably not a fair price comparison with the AC Delco re-manufactured calipers..... those will be rebuilt by an outside shop and won't be using Genuine OEM parts.

EDIT: Okay it's $30+ dollars for me because of shipping from multiple warehouses. I'm not going to play around with specific items selection to reduce shipping since I don't need these parts now. Advance Auto or Amazon might be better for these parts because of the shipping.

I'd have a very hard time spending $72 for four pins. I see no point in the captured sleeves and find them inconvenient since it's harder to clean up rust on a wire wheel. I have had issues with rust/pitting but for $72 dollars I could replace the pins with not-insanely priced pins many times.

 

[454cid]

If the piston is stuck, 130 psi won't blow it out of the caliper. You'll need to thread a grease zerk into the caliper so you can pump the piston out with a grease gun. (Trailblazer two-piston caliper pictured.)

You must be registered for see images attach

Wow 130psi!!! I've used air a few times, but just because I was curious on how the inside looked on a problem caliper that I was replacing. I had one that wouldn't pop out, but I gave up and just tossed it in the box to go back as a core. I've had a couple seize on the right side..... must be connected to the taillight board on the right that I always had issue with.

 

[alpinecrick]

I'm not sure why it would cost you that much, unless you're trying to use only GM OEM parts, and that's probably not a fair price comparison with the AC Delco re-manufactured calipers..... those will be rebuilt by an outside shop and won't be using Genuine OEM parts.

EDIT: Okay it's $30+ dollars for me because of shipping from multiple warehouses. I'm not going to play around with specific items selection to reduce shipping since I don't need these parts now. Advance Auto or Amazon might be better for these parts because of the shipping.

I'd have a very hard time spending $72 for four pins. I see no point in the captured sleeves and find them inconvenient since it's harder to clean up rust on a wire wheel. I have had issues with rust/pitting but for $72 dollars I could replace the pins with not-insanely priced pins many times.

The GM OEM pins/sleeves at $18 apiece are the cheapest I could find them, Amazon wants $27 apiece. I was just wondering if the OEM's are more "precise" or last significantly longer than the others. I have already learned my lesson about pins and sleeves. Even if the pins and sleeves seem to be tight without much slop, I have had them hang up when reusing them.

I'm probably jus going to order the AC Delco remans that are coated, because minus the instant rebate and core charge they're $42 for the pair. At the moment my Raybestos pads, rotors, and AC Delco calipers in my cart are all coming from the same warehouse and shipping is $19 total.

But I'm open to pad suggestions. What pads would you guys recommend? Currently I'm looking at the Raybestos EHT369H.

 

[454cid]

The GM OEM pins/sleeves at $18 apiece are the cheapest I could find them, Amazon wants $27 apiece. I was just wondering if the OEM's are more "precise" or last significantly longer than the others.

I didn't think about precise.... I can't see them being too precise given that they mount in rubber. $27 each??? At that point, I think I'd look into having brass sleeves made.

I have already learned my lesson about pins and sleeves. Even if the pins and sleeves seem to be tight without much slop, I have had them hang up when reusing them.

I've too have had trouble, but I don't think it's the pins, necessarily. I've thought that I should have been replacing the rubber bushings every time instead of trying to clean them. What have you been doing in that area?

 

[Schurkey]

All the pads I've ordered recently have been "Made in USA" Performance Friction "Carbon Metallic".

https://pfcbrakes.com/

 

[RichardSwinger]

Hey guys, came across the thread researching for a full (front and rear) brake system overhaul on my 98 K2500 8600lbs 8 lug as well. I've only had the truck about a year and I've been fixing/upgrading things as I can.

I know these aren't hotrod trucks, but are there any "performance" aftermarket brake parts for these? From what I understand, the 2500 front calipers are slightly larger than the standard 1500 calipers and I'd hate to order a power stop kit with pads/rotors/calipers and have it be the wrong kind (or fit, but have a smaller diameter piston and end up being worse than what I took off in the first place). I don't have the tools (or the patience if I'm being honest) to do a rebuild like you guys have been doing.

As for the rears, I've looked into a disk conversion but understand that these 2500s have bigger rear drums than the 1500s too and a disk conversion would probably end up being a down grade. I'd love to get new drums and rear pads too, but my goodness: there are SO many different drum brake rebuild kits it's melting my brain.

I really appreciate your guys' help, I'm not trying to thread jack but this is the only one I could find talking about brakes for the oddball K2500.

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