Bleeding Rear Drums..?

[OffroadZ71]

Alright real quick got a 98 k1500 haven't been able to get fluid to rear drums with Mityvac.
Did alot of reading on this and other sites and came across this (required) tool. It holds the combination valve pin in when bleeding, from what I've read this should allow me to successfully bleed the rears.

Truck has new bench bleed AC Delco master
Rear rubber brake line and rear wheel cylinders

Thanks for any tips

 

[kolgeirr]

Dunno about the fancy tools and Mityvacs, but I bled the drums on my Suburban without issue the old fashioned way; a wrench and hose on the bleeder and my wife pressing the brake pedal. If all else fails, bribe a buddy with a beer or two.

 

[Schurkey]

That tool--and the pin on the combo valve--is for the FRONT brakes.

I never liked using suction to bleed brakes. I prefer a pressure bleeder for major work, or work near the master cylinder. I'll gravity-bleed for work near the wheel cylinders.

Two-person "pump the pedal" works great, too...if you have a second person who can follow directions. Don't let them pump the pedal like a crazed monkey.

 

[alpinecrick]

Two-person "pump the pedal" works great, too...if you have a second person who can follow directions. Don't let them pump the pedal like a crazed monkey.

I watched a guy do that one time. I walked to the back of the truck to the guy who was doing the bleeding (who knew how to bleed brakes), and said, " uh, your man operating the pedal is actually PUMPING the brake pedal instead of stepping on the pedal". Hysterical......

Offroad,
New MC, line, and wheel cylinders means a lot of fluid is missing, plus what fliud drained out of the lines while changing out parts, means the fliud has a long ways to go to start coming out of the wheel cylinders. It can and often does take a while to fill up the lines.
I've tried and been around the one-man brake bleeding tools, that suck, push and drain brake lines, but the bestest way in my experience is having another person operating the brake pedal.

 

[GoToGuy]

Master cylinder full, press brake repeatedly till somewhat firm and hold. Start with bleeder farthest away. Open bleeder as flow slows and air escapes close bleeder. Repeat till new clean fluid appears, check master often refill as necessary.
Repeat process. The only other way I've done was using my lilse 2 gallon pressure pot attached to master. Then open all 4 bleeders, 30 seconds complete fluid replacement.
I tried some speed bleeder fittings on the rears and they did work.
Also you go ahead and adjust , check the rear shoes while your down there. Makes a difference on pedal height application. Good luck.

 

[Just Nobody]

For bleeding by myself, I do gravity bleeding

 

[Pinger]

Quickest way I've found to prime (not bleed) the rear line is to open very slightly the bleed valve on the passenger side and work the pedal up and down for a few strokes. After that, bleed by your preferred method.

 

[OffroadZ71]

Appreciate the replies...I went through the basic pedal pump method with no success. I'll give It a more thorough attempt this weekend, just seems like something is blocking fluid to the rear. I guess I've been riding around with only front brakes for a LONG time...not good

 

[SUBURBAN5]

I just went throught this. Your combination valve could be locked...

 

[mwilliams55555]

Quickest way I've found to prime (not bleed) the rear line is to open very slightly the bleed valve on the passenger side and work the pedal up and down for a few strokes. After that, bleed by your preferred method.

That's how I do it, gets it started after replacing main line faster