Ball joints

[randomguy]

I just put in new TRE’s, pitman arm, idler arm, and a Red Head Steering Gear. Now I need do do balljoints. Ordered a full set of Moogs.

Fortunately the riveted in uppers have already been replaced once so they have bolts and the lowers are the bolt on type so imagine it will be pretty drama free. Anyone have any tips?

 

[454cid]

I've never done bolt in lowers. It sure sounds nice compared to pressing them in... which I've never had too much of a problem with.

If this is a 4x4 make sure you protect the CV shaft boots from damage on the lower shock mounts, or anything else. It doesn't take much to damage the boots enough to sling grease.

When I work in the wheel well, I like to pressure wash everything first. Its just nicer to work on something that isn't super filthy. It also gets things ready for undercoating if I want to do that.

 

[Supercharged111]

Make sure you have plenty of beer.

 

[randomguy]

What’s the fastest/simplest method for removing the CV?

 

[Supercharged111]

What’s the fastest/simplest method for removing the CV?

Remove CV nut, remove lower ball joint nut, remove knuckle from LBJ, slide CV out of hub. Add antiseize to the splines prior to reassembly.

 

[454cid]

Remove CV nut, remove lower ball joint nut, remove knuckle from LBJ, slide CV out of hub. Add antiseize to the splines prior to reassembly.

How are you separating the ball joint with the outer CV in the way?

 

[Supercharged111]

How are you separating the ball joint with the outer CV in the way?

I don't remember, it's been a couple years. Maybe I knocked the upper out instead? Once the nut comes off the lower, you just bash the thing until the knuckle pops out. Maybe I got lucky with a wrench?

 

[randomguy]

I managed to knock out all 4 ball joints in 3 hours today.

My truck does not have a front sway bar so I think that makes it a lot easier. That and no road salt. I did not remove the shock. I also do not have air tools. I improvised my procedure. All I used were hand tools, a floor jack, and a jack stand. I used the floor jack to control the lower control arm while working on it.

My procedure as follows:

1. Soak everything in Kroil. Lots of Kroil
2. Break 36mm axle nuts loose with the tire on the ground.
   
3. Remove tire.
4. Disconnect tie rod end.
5. Remove brake caliper. Much easier to do with TRE disconnected.
6. Remove The 6 15mm bolts from the axle side of the CV axle. My truck has a Standard Motor Products TCA19 in place of the POS thermal actuator so the axle is always engaged just popped it in to 4wd as needed to remove the bolts.
7. Allow suspension to droop so the CV axle can clear the axle.
8. Remove CV axle from hub. No salt for me so it removed with hand pressure.
9. Loosen upper ball joint from knuckle by loosening the 27mm nut, just don’t remove it. Use a bottle jack between the upper and lower control arms to pop the joint, the nut will keep your spindle from flopping.
10. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Also a 27mm.
11. Beat the hell out of the spindle around the lower ball joint. Use lots of Kroil.
12. Smack the top of the knuckle a few times with a mini sledge. Lower ball joint pops and now just remove the nut off the upper.
13. Remove knuckle (aka spindle).
14. Remove the the ball joints. On the bolt in type the uppers are 13mm and lowers are 18mm.
15. Install new ball joints. I was lucky, my lowers are the bolt in type and the PO of my truck already removed the riveted in uppers. Too bad he used parts store POS ball joints.
16. Torque the 4 18mm bolts on lower ball joints to 50 ft lbs. Torque the 4 13mm bolts on the upper ball joint to 20 ft lbs.
17. Install knuckle. Torque upper ball joint to 50 ft lbs and lower to 94 ft lbs. Then tighten until the cotter pin lines up with the nut.
18. Slide CV axle into the hub and then install the 6 bolts. I couldn’t find a torque spec but based on the bolt size I thought 50 ft lbs was appropriate. I installed the axle nut at this point but did not torque it.
19. Install brake rotor and caliper.
20. Install TRE into knuckle. Torque to 46 ft lbs and then tighten until the cotter pin can be installed.
21. Install tire. Drop it on the ground and torque it.

Might not be right but it was fast and easy. I pity you all in salt country or if you still have to deal with rivets or pressed in ball joints.

 

[Jason Horton]

I just done the lower on mine, it took a min but wasn't that bad

 

[Jason Horton]

I just put in new TRE’s, pitman arm, idler arm, and a Red Head Steering Gear. Now I need do do balljoints. Ordered a full set of Moogs.

Fortunately the riveted in uppers have already been replaced once so they have bolts and the lowers are the bolt on type so imagine it will be pretty drama free. Anyone have any tips?