Just want to check my configuration and ask some questions at the end:
(I dont have any major accessories besides HID ballasts installed currently)
I have a 1998 k1500 pickup, 5.7L. Current RPO code is K60 for alt = 100A alt(havent checked if thats whats still in there though). My truck had the 2nd battery tray factory installed, just no 2nd battery or cables.
I installed a dual terminal group 78 battery where old battery was, moved old side terminal only battery to pass side.
Planning on running #2 with standard insulation and abrasion resistant casing everywhere.
My intentions are to set myself up for if I ever want to get a plow, or winch, or air compressor, or any kind of powered truck accessory with the exception of a welder (I'll leave that wiring to a professional for something that powerful).
Parts:
Wire - as described above from wherever is cheaper for fine strand copper.
Terminal Ends - whatever I can find from autozone or batteries plus, etc. Gold is best, but expensive. Al, Cu, or steel will work just fine with corrosion resistant coating.
Alternator - hear really good things about 200+amp (available at idle) from Nationsautoelectric.com, but they are expensive. I'm looking for something in the world of 200A and to have at least 3/4 of that available at idle ( you can always change pulley size I assume as well) that is around 200$ or less.
Battery - Dependent on application, i think the group 78 dual terminal that have around 880 CCA and highest AH you can afford is best. Deep Cycle only necessary if large current draw all at once either engine on or off. If worried, just get deep cycle and be worry free. Getting 2 new at the same time is optimal, but having an older and newer isn't the end of the world I think, as long as you directly connect main bat pos to aux bat pos & main bat neg to aux bat neg, you'll have equalized draw (until breakdown of older occurs first of course). You get higher longevity out of both if both are bought new at same time, but that applies to everything so to each his own.
Configuration:
(Off the top of my head, I dont remember if this year had the little jump start terminal or just a terminal breakout box located off the actual main battery, so maybe future discussion after I take picture later and post it.)
1) Run wire from alt output to main bat pos, add inline fuse rated for 50A higher than alt output.
2) Run wire from main bat pos to aux bat pos.
3) Run wire from main bat neg to aux bat neg.
4) Run wire from main bat neg to engine block.
5) Run wire from aux bat neg to engine block.
6) Run wire from main bat pos to starter pos.
6) If haven't done so already, just run new wire from engine block to frame rail.
7) If haven't done so already, just run new wire from engine block to body(firewall).
When you get into plows and etc., you have to include different types of isolators and solenoids to control the plow being powered off aux battery and the engine/driving systems off the main battery, but I'll deal with that once I get those accessories. For right now, I think all the time power draw should be fine.
What I want to know is, do i need to change any relays/fuses/connectors/electrical devices already installed on vehicle in order to account for this higher current generation and draw?
Also want to know if this will cause batteries to die faster when sitting for certain periods when wired to be in parallel all the time?
Lastly, what if anything, do I need to do in order to jump start this configuration if batteries are dead enough? People mention putting in switches that disconnect a battery or something along those lines I think, but do you just run jumper cables to pos and neg on main bat only since directly connected to starter? (probably dumb question, but they always said there are no dumb questions haha)
P.S. is there anything I'm missing that specific to this year chevy pickup? I know newer models have a problem with ground aux batt to engine or something like that, but let me know if you guys see anything else missing.
Thanks
