Ken K
I'm Awesome
Using the power solving math of "P" over "I" X "E", 2,720 watts (Power) would result from a charging system producing 13.6 volts, is consuming 200 amps continuous. "I" is amps, "E" is volts, "P" is watts. In a circle, with P on top, divide any single number below to find the other factor. "I" & "E" is multiplied.
You will need an accurate and clear amperage measurements of your total systems requirements. Turn one added on system on at a time while measuring each system with a trusted inductive amp clamp with direct readout or with a good DMM, like a Fluke 87 Type 5. Check at the alternator B+ cable, write each system down, including the truck with everything turn on high. Add the all to get total amperage, then add 10 -20%. This is your base target. It is like full-fielding the alternator, just one system at a time.
As posted, use an AD244 alternator from a 2001-2003 Tahoe / Silverado / etc. Go to www.alternatorman.com and do some searching for GM's AD244 upgrades. Get the higher rated diodes, in a copper plate with new brushes. This package will handle the heat well with increasing your output. The AD244 is one of the best one made. Plus, it will bolt right up on your current bracket (Perhaps some small hole changes)
Plus upgrading the wiring cables is very important for both positive, Maxi Fuse blocks, to power distribution center and grounds to the chassis, engine, alternator and frame. Choose good cable based upon the length and current to be used. Also, choose heavy crimp terminals, like those on semi trucks, solder and shrink tubing and don't forget dielectric grease. WWW.Dell-City is a good website for wiring materials.
Going from a V-Belt system to 6 row serpentine is standard with bone yard pulleys are everywhere, it's not too hard. Get the alternator there also...rebuilding is easy.
At the dealer, I had a V6 SUV vehicle towed into the dealer with a no crank complaint. I did some quick checks, found the front alternator bearing was frozen, took the belt off, started right up... I was impressed by the holding power.
You will need an accurate and clear amperage measurements of your total systems requirements. Turn one added on system on at a time while measuring each system with a trusted inductive amp clamp with direct readout or with a good DMM, like a Fluke 87 Type 5. Check at the alternator B+ cable, write each system down, including the truck with everything turn on high. Add the all to get total amperage, then add 10 -20%. This is your base target. It is like full-fielding the alternator, just one system at a time.
As posted, use an AD244 alternator from a 2001-2003 Tahoe / Silverado / etc. Go to www.alternatorman.com and do some searching for GM's AD244 upgrades. Get the higher rated diodes, in a copper plate with new brushes. This package will handle the heat well with increasing your output. The AD244 is one of the best one made. Plus, it will bolt right up on your current bracket (Perhaps some small hole changes)
Plus upgrading the wiring cables is very important for both positive, Maxi Fuse blocks, to power distribution center and grounds to the chassis, engine, alternator and frame. Choose good cable based upon the length and current to be used. Also, choose heavy crimp terminals, like those on semi trucks, solder and shrink tubing and don't forget dielectric grease. WWW.Dell-City is a good website for wiring materials.
Going from a V-Belt system to 6 row serpentine is standard with bone yard pulleys are everywhere, it's not too hard. Get the alternator there also...rebuilding is easy.
At the dealer, I had a V6 SUV vehicle towed into the dealer with a no crank complaint. I did some quick checks, found the front alternator bearing was frozen, took the belt off, started right up... I was impressed by the holding power.
