Alternator charging wire up grade

[skychair]

I decided to up grade my charging wire with a cable, and noticed that the old wire was a cable.
There was a 5 stamped on the terminal end.

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I installed the 4 ga wire anyhow, left the original.

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Installing E-fans, would the old cable been enough?

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I'm waiting to see how everything works before going to a 145 amp alternator.
Any thoughts/suggestions?
Ron

 

[RawbDidIt]

Is your only electrical upgrade going to be the electric fans, or do you plan on upgrading sound or lights as well? If so, you're going to want a bigger alternator. I went with a 245A from Power Master. I was a little apprehensive because it seemed to cheap, but it has a great warranty, and it's kept up with my sound system great. I'll post a full review once I get my lights installed, but I'd recommend looking into it. Found it on Summit Racing for a little over $300 after taxes. Bolts right in if you've got a 96+ 350. Link below.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-48237

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[skychair]

Is your only electrical upgrade going to be the electric fans, or do you plan on upgrading sound or lights as well? If so, you're going to want a bigger alternator. I went with a 245A from Power Master. I was a little apprehensive because it seemed to cheap, but it has a great warranty, and it's kept up with my sound system great. I'll post a full review once I get my lights installed, but I'd recommend looking into it. Found it on Summit Racing for a little over $300 after taxes. Bolts right in if you've got a 96+ 350. Link below.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-48237

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

No big electronics planned only the fans, I thought the original cable would be plenty, but I had the other one laying around.
Ron

 

[Cokeman95]

My 140A has done well with my fans. I do have some voltage drop when running the fans, a/c, headlights and both blowers on high. I plan to upgrade my cabling to address this issue.

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[5vortec7]

The original cable has a fusible link that will melt if there’s a charging problem or short. You might want to add a fuse to keep this protection.

 

[Schurkey]

The original cable has a fusible link that will melt if there’s a charging problem or short. You might want to add a fuse to keep this protection.

Fuses react too quickly. That's one reason GM used the fusible link. Fusible links are very slow-reacting, which means they'll tolerate a heavy overload for a short period of time.

Fusible link wire is readily available at any auto parts store. Solder in four inches of fusible link wire (4 "numbers" larger than the wire you're protecting. If you want to protect a 4-gauge wire, use 8-gauge fusible link wire. If you want to protect a 12-gauge wire, use a 16-gauge fusible link.

 

[XJPhoenix]

Fuses react too quickly. That's one reason GM used the fusible link. Fusible links are very slow-reacting, which means they'll tolerate a heavy overload for a short period of time.

Fusible link wire is readily available at any auto parts store. Solder in four inches of fusible link wire (4 "numbers" larger than the wire you're protecting. If you want to protect a 4-gauge wire, use 8-gauge fusible link wire. If you want to protect a 12-gauge wire, use a 16-gauge fusible link.

Just curious because I'm planning on doing damn near the same thing, (2005+ electric fans, 4 gauge cable upgrade and bigger alternator in a 1996 Yukon with the 5.7), would a cicuit breaker work?

 

[Schurkey]

would a cicuit breaker work?

Yes. But like fuses, it's going to react too quickly.

This is why GM used fusible links, IF THEY USED ANYTHING AT ALL.

Most older cars have zero protection on the alternator output, because opening that circuit can damage the alternator.

 

[96taho]

I decided to up grade my charging wire with a cable, and noticed that the old wire was a cable.
There was a 5 stamped on the terminal end.

You must be registered for see images attach

I installed the 4 ga wire anyhow, left the original.

You must be registered for see images attach

Installing E-fans, would the old cable been enough?

You must be registered for see images attach

I'm waiting to see how everything works before going to a 145 amp alternator.
Any thoughts/suggestions?
Ron

DO THE BIG 3 WIRE UPGRADE...
powerbastards will make you a kit ready to go with wires made up to length,He did mine and did a fantastic job and it included breakers and everything to be sure it was done right...

 

[Ken K]

While there are many online DC wire amperage charts, they only help if you have an inductive DC amp clamp. Most sold for about $60, have AC / DC with digital readout in the tools body. This is what I use to check each main circuit or just one at a time.
Alternator upgrades are popular, perhaps the new AD230 or AD244 found on 98 or newer trucks (GMT800). They are 102 / 130 amps output respectively. The stator size determines the output and GM's I.D. system is AD= dual internal fans, 2 is the design designator, 30/44 is in mm larger laminated stator size from a base 100mm stator. So in measurement; 100 + 30 = 130 / 100mm + 44mm = 140mm. (Note; 25.4 mm equals 1 inch)
They contain two internal fans with large rear housing outlets for air flow to remove heat. The heat is what kills the rectifier when running near max output. alternator man.com can help with identification, updated internals, parts and higher output models. With very little effort at they mounting holes, they will bolt on the GMT400 engine. Regulators and connector can change, but run at turn-on voltage at 14.2 vdc. The mount holes are 1/8th wider that normal, but considered the best alternator on the market due to air flow.
As for fuse info, see the pics.

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