You guys are kidding me, right?
Do NOT just swap out the HP fitting and shoot R-134a into that truck. You will DESTROY the A/C system. Mineral oil and PAG oil doesn't mix. It will eat that system alive when they meet.
Honestly man, just get yourself 2-3 cans of R-12 and shoot in there with the low pressure switch jumpered (if the compressor does not turn on).
To do it right, you need to swap out the high pressure switch, both the hi/lo side adapters, vacuum out the system, make sure there is NO oil left in the compressor, add the proper amount of oil, turn the compressor by hand a few times to circulate it, then add the R-134a. It takes 80% of the original R-12 charge. I would highly recommend replacing the Orifice Tube and Accumulator/Drier (the silver cylinder near the firewall) as well, it should be done whenever the system is opened.
R-134a will not cool as well as R-12 in these trucks. The condensors are smaller, and R-134a is less efficient. Less airflow, due to a smaller condensor leaks to it being even less efficient. My R-12 system regularly get down to the upper 20's when I'm driving, and around 35 at idle. That's damn cold. My old Sierra was converted, and despite it all being done right, I never saw less than 48-50* coming out of the vents. Looks good on paper, but when it's 90* outside, it just can't keep up.
Get yourself an R-12 can-to-low pressure port adapter, a few cans of R-12, and keep adding until you see about 40* at idle, if you don't have the manifold gauges. Then tighten the valve on the can, disconnect it from the low side, and enjoy the A/C. This is assuming you don't have a big leak somewhere. You need a license to buy R-12, but a lot of stores will sell it to you if you send them a message saying you are going to resell it to a licensed HVAC technician.