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When I can, I want to confirm pin #23 is being used, supposedly that means it’s been updated. It has a build date of 6/96 AND part number revision #16244210. So, I should be all set. That video confuses me as well with the 96-99 timeline! I thought of contacting Black Bear Performance who recently tuned my PCM just to see if they are aware of revision, my guess is yes.Valve body separator plate problems are epidemic. The check balls pound the holes in the plate, the holes get oversized. Any competent rebuilder should see that, though.
There's a hundred special "kits" to repair a hundred different problems on the '700/4L60/4L60E family of transmissions. Sonnax is a good source.
THANKS for posting about the wire harness/VCM update. I looked at the video claiming that this is needed all the way up to '99. I don't know why the wire harness update is needed; supposedly GM fixed all of them starting in late Feb '96. But then, they're the ones who screwed it up to begin with.
Already got a new rad (the existing one has a coolant leak in it) from Mishimoto, and getting a new, larger rad cooler. On top of new trans lines too.Replace your rad. this many failures I wouldn't even bother flushing the cooler.
Also, I'm not from my area, this is the first time I'll be getting a transmission here, and there is a shop around that focus solely on truck transmissions, particularly 4L60E's, 4L80E's, as well as the truck transmissions for Ford and Dodge trucks. And they come with a 3 year or 100k mile warranty on em. They have damn good reviews, so likely going to go with them, contingient on how they act and what they say when I get the money for it, and get the truck to their shop.it sounds like the OP's area doesn't have a shop that knows how to build a 4L60E. It's sad but i think this is the norm. I would honestly go the online route at this point. There are some good vendors that offer decent warranties. The only thing that sucks is shipping costs. There are also some "installer" problems as well. verifying correct full level on dip stick (has to be done with pan removed), correct torque converter spacing (1/8” to 3/16”, i prefer closer to 1/8” myself) and proper cleaning or replacement of ttansmission coolers and lines. Could have the best unit in the world but if not installed right you will have problems.
EDIT: if you go the local route or DIY you can buy a Sonnax reman'd valve body. I like using a new separator plate (either GM or Transgo) and use torlon checkballs.