95 Long bed Reg Cab named "Stitch"

[letitsnow]

If I did anything like this, the first thing that would happen would be me hitting a pheasant and wrecking it.

 

[MrPink]

Yeah, that is one thing I am worried about.

 

[MrPink]

I have confirmed a bit of things for my build. I am going with an LQ4(6.0L) I found one local for a good price at a yard. The engine will get new head gaskets, oil pump, cam, lifters, springs, valve seals, etc....

The block and valve covers will be painted Pontiac/Oldsmobile blue. The main reason is that my wife picked the color. The design on the other page had nothing to do with that. The truck will eventually be painted 2 tone, Light Quasar Blue Met (WA9790) with a Dark Gray Met (WA8798), and a Red pinstripe separating the colors.

 

[MrPink]

I am no longer going to do the Olds truck as my wife hates the idea and stated "You will be ruining your truck, you have a design already, stick to it."

And I have to agree with her, I have the truck completely designed in my head (I really need to get a rendering done) and have it most of the way planned out the only things I am waffling on is, if I am Turboing or Supercharging the LS, and what color the suspension stuff will be Cerekoted lol. I also will be getting all the hardware that is removed sandblasted, and I will be black oxide coating the nuts, bolts and brackets (I found a way to do this at home lol).

I am thinking a "battleship" gray for the suspension and steering stuff.

 

[MrPink]

These are not my pictures or my truck but this gentleman had the same idea I want to do for my cage, I however am only using the main, not going to do the down bars that go through cab and bed. I shouldn't need them for my setup

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[618 Syndicate]

Only issue I see is the door bars turning down. Leaves your lower legs exposed.

 

[Stumpy]

That rear cross bar looks good, tucked in like that. Agree with 618, on the door bars. Plus those two bends would seem to be weak points to me, but I'm no engineer.

 

[MrPink]

The way I will do mine is similar in that aspect, but it will go further towards the dashboard, not all the way towards it however though.

 

[Erik the Awful]

The main hoop looks like it could go two or thrree inches higher. The harness bar looks nice. The rear downbars are garbage. If they don't connect within 6" of the top of the main hoop, they don't really do anything. On our trucks, that means there's really no way to connect them without removing the rear window and putting the rear bars through the rear window sill. The door bars are absolute garbage.

It looks like they didn't go all the way to the roof to make the welding easier. Instead, cut holes beneath where the main hoop welds in so you can drop it down through the floor for welding. Once you've welded it, slide those spreader plates in under and weld them up. Then patch up the bottom of your floor and paint. Nobody likes cutting holes in their floor, but it's the right way to do it.

 

[MrPink]

I got a bit of disconnecting work done last night, spent a couple hrs out in the garage, got the engine completely disconnected from fuel, and wiring. I need to take the trans mount out, motor mounts and the y-pipe bolts(3 per side) and the engine will be free of it's home.

Erik,

I completely agree with you in the aspects of the cage. The more I looked at it, the worse it became. I am doing the door bars bent like that, but they will go further up towards under the dash, the only reason I am doing them like shown design wise is ease of entry. I will not be doing rear down bars as I want to retain use of my bed completely. I'll be doing a 4pt to 6pt cage inside the cab only.