Ok so I'm missing the rear most header bolts on both sides. The header on the pass side had some big old gaps at the top and the bolts tightened slightly with barely any effort. The driver's side looks tighter but the gasket is beat to hell. Trying to figure out what bolts I need now, might just take the old ones to Fastenal to match them.
94 Blazer Build Part 2...
- Thread starter Slick1
- Start date
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Took off the passenger side and had extra gaskets so I just put a new one in. Bolts will be coming Friday so for now I just used the ones that were on there. I cleaned them up in a white vinegar bath for about an hour to get some of the rust off and it worked kind of. The header does not want to line up snug as it should be, like it's cocked at a bit of an angle and it's keeping it from seating flush or something. I found I could get more turns out of the bolts by pulling up on the header while I turned but it's still not perfect.
That being said it is better than it was and the whistle/whine wasn't there on startup (it's also warm today so not sure if that's part of it). I took it for an extended drive and she sounds MUCH better though so I'm happy with that. Hopefully when I put in the new bolts I can get it perfect. Might wrap the header with a ratchet strap so I can really toque up on the whole thing while I'm wrenching. If that doesn't work than I might have to go for a thicker gasket probably aluminum.
I also figured out possibly why the rear most bolts aren't on - they're a major pain in the ass! Took me longer to yank on the header and guide that bolt in than you would imagine!
That being said it is better than it was and the whistle/whine wasn't there on startup (it's also warm today so not sure if that's part of it). I took it for an extended drive and she sounds MUCH better though so I'm happy with that. Hopefully when I put in the new bolts I can get it perfect. Might wrap the header with a ratchet strap so I can really toque up on the whole thing while I'm wrenching. If that doesn't work than I might have to go for a thicker gasket probably aluminum.
I also figured out possibly why the rear most bolts aren't on - they're a major pain in the ass! Took me longer to yank on the header and guide that bolt in than you would imagine!
Suburban1500
I'm Awesome
Those headers make the truck sound great but are a royal pain! I did the passenger side gasket when i got the truck, and i beleive I stripped those rear bolts and didn't even bother putting them back in for those reasons you mentioned. Just getting the header to line up was a chore in itself. I guess the gaskets arent of good quality, so if they fail again the aluminum will probaly be the way to go.
I got a bolt in the pass side eventually so it's not stripped but I had to really yank up on the header to get the bolt to line up. I figured out for some reason if you put any other bolt in first the rear won't line up with the hole, but if you do the rear one first the other ones go in fine. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me but it worked so I'm not complaining!
So I had the new bolts and when I went to put them in the old bolts had loosened up some already, especially the back one. The new bolts are a little shorter and the slight difference made it impossible to thread in the rear most one with how hard I had to fight the header. I had to reuse the old one for the rear but all the other on the passenger side are new. I also had the idea to double gasket and read mixed opinions about doing it online. I went for it and feel like it was a good move although maybe just temporary until I can get a thicker aluminum one on it.
I drove maybe 10 miles after buttoning it all back up, went out the next day and figured I'd just check them- I was able to tighten them every single one, and I had used a breaker bar to tighten them the previous day. About to go see if they loosened up any more.
I also have to figure out what's involved in the bracket that goes over the front most header bolt on the driver's side so I can replace that gasket.
I drove maybe 10 miles after buttoning it all back up, went out the next day and figured I'd just check them- I was able to tighten them every single one, and I had used a breaker bar to tighten them the previous day. About to go see if they loosened up any more.
I also have to figure out what's involved in the bracket that goes over the front most header bolt on the driver's side so I can replace that gasket.
Did you ever figure out what the deal is with your back glass? My 92 I have to turn the key and pull the glass at the same time, and the dash button makes a noise but it doesn't release. I haven't tried soaking it in kroil though, I might try that tonight just to do it.
Sorry not really on here much so I'm just seeing this now. I think there was a pad or something inside that kept a certain degree of pressure against the pin when closed. With that pressure when you pop the latch the glass wants to open anyway so it shoots out enough to clear the latch. The padding or whatever is worn down so it isn't providing enough pressure on that pin. I just keep electrical tape in the truck and I slide the button on the dash and tape it in the open position. It usually gives me enough time to walk back and open the glass before the tape gives.
****, I think you just gave me the answer. Swap the switch out for one that stays in position and do like you do.
Suburban1500
I'm Awesome
Hows my ol girl doin, any cool upgrades or just drivin it?
Only upgrade was a new exhaust from the headers back cause the old one finally gave way. There's some mild rust spots forming under the paint on the hood so I'm going to have to pull it to sandblast and paint again. It's weird cause the paint in those spots looks fine but get it in the right light and it's obvious.
I'm actually on here right now to read up on anyone who's done a coil sprung SFA to see what's involved. She could really use some new tires and I have my heart set on 37s.
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