89 suzuki sidekick 1.6L no electrical power

[White96k2500]

Okay so my 89 sidekick has been doing fine, then all of a sudden it starts messing up. Runs fine doesn’t have any power loss, at first when i would go to turn it over, none of the dash lights would come on. Turn the key off and back on everything would light up and it’d start right up and run fine. Well fast forward to two days ago, go to crank it nothing. Battery connections are good, all wires to starter are good, no blown fuses, all grounds look good, battery is good. What could be causing this problem?

 

[RawbDidIt]

I'd say take a look at the ignition harness. When this is happening are circuits that should be getting power hot?

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[White96k2500]

I'd say take a look at the ignition harness. When this is happening are circuits that should be getting power hot?

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Nothing works at all. No headlights nothing at all. Absolutely no power.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Bad battery connections?

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[Dover]

I had a 97 Suzuki swift and a 99 metro (rebadged Suzuki) and both of them had this issue. Turned out it was the battery cables corroded and rotten inside the sheathing. If the cables are not new don’t trust them just because the ends look good. If you have replaced them then idk was my best guess.


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[White96k2500]

Bad battery connections?

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Visually they are good. Never thought of what Dover said above though.

I had a 97 Suzuki swift and a 99 metro (rebadged Suzuki) and both of them had this issue. Turned out it was the battery cables corroded and rotten inside the sheathing. If the cables are not new don’t trust them just because the ends look good. If you have replaced them then idk was my best guess.


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Where could you get new battery cables?

 

[RawbDidIt]

Visually they are good. Never thought of what Dover said above though.



Where could you get new battery cables?

Before you do that, test them. Grab a multimeter and test the resistance through the wires. Look up a table for resistance per ft of wire based on diameter (Guage) and test all of your wires. If corrosion got one wire it's quite possible it hit more than one wire. While testing, work the wire to see if you can cause it to lose connection. I'm not sure how the electrical is set up on your vehicle, but if there's only one ground it's either that wire or the main power wire that connects the positive side of the battery to the rest of the system. If you're replacing both (i would if one doesn't test well, and I'd add a couple grounds as well. See any number of posts on the site for "big 3 upgrade") pull them both and take them to a reputable car audio shop and have them give you 4ga solid copper strand in that length, and have them terminate it with the ends you need. Unless you have some after market electrical loads, 4ga is plenty, if you have or plan to have aftermarket lights, stereo, etc, just bite the bullet and go 1/0ga now so you're already done with that part of the upgrade. You'll probably have to stop by the auto parts store next for a set of battery terminals.

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[White96k2500]

Before you do that, test them. Grab a multimeter and test the resistance through the wires. Look up a table for resistance per ft of wire based on diameter (Guage) and test all of your wires. If corrosion got one wire it's quite possible it hit more than one wire. While testing, work the wire to see if you can cause it to lose connection. I'm not sure how the electrical is set up on your vehicle, but if there's only one ground it's either that wire or the main power wire that connects the positive side of the battery to the rest of the system. If you're replacing both (i would if one doesn't test well, and I'd add a couple grounds as well. See any number of posts on the site for "big 3 upgrade") pull them both and take them to a reputable car audio shop and have them give you 4ga solid copper strand in that length, and have them terminate it with the ends you need. Unless you have some after market electrical loads, 4ga is plenty, if you have or plan to have aftermarket lights, stereo, etc, just bite the bullet and go 1/0ga now so you're already done with that part of the upgrade. You'll probably have to stop by the auto parts store next for a set of battery terminals.

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I believe there is two grounds. One on firewall and one on fender but both “look” good. I do have a lightbar, and some rock lights on it. I plan to add a radio and a sound system sometime in it. I did take the terminals off of the battery cables the other day and noticed a little bit of white corrosion on the wire.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Try and wiggle the wire with the key on and see if your loads come back on. Or, you can run your fingers down the wire pinching as you go, and if it's corroded you'll feel give in the insulation, as well as grit. It's likely to be within a few inches of any breaks in the insulation, so if you start at the battery end you'll probably notice it right away. Cut the insulation for a visual inspection once you find it, and you'll likely have your answer. I'd go 1/0 ga for the main power wire and grounds, and add another ground from negative battery terminal to alternator case.

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[White96k2500]

Try and wiggle the wire with the key on and see if your loads come back on. Or, you can run your fingers down the wire pinching as you go, and if it's corroded you'll feel give in the insulation, as well as grit. It's likely to be within a few inches of any breaks in the insulation, so if you start at the battery end you'll probably notice it right away. Cut the insulation for a visual inspection once you find it, and you'll likely have your answer. I'd go 1/0 ga for the main power wire and grounds, and add another ground from negative battery terminal to alternator case.

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I will have to look at it when i get home today. I’m kinda hoping that’s what it is. This may sound dumb but i have no idea about electrical stuff, what does adding grounds do?