5.7 Starting Issue

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Ken K

I'm Awesome
Joined
May 10, 2017
Messages
242
Reaction score
107
Location
Omaha, NE.
GM's specs show fuel pressure for the CSFI system as 56 - 62 PSI / 385 - 430 kPa. The poppet valve is mechanically un-seated with fuel pressure when the fuel injector valve is opened electrically at the fuel body, therefore the fuel line pressure is more important.
Also the accuracy of the fuel gauge being used. While the poppet injector opens at 58 PSI and sprays until pressure drops after the electric valve is seated, it stops spraying at 55 PSI.
This poppet system is "Central Sequential Fuel Injection" and pressure is very important. Each injector over time, will open or close at different pressure points. If they stick shut, high pressure procedures using GM equipment and nitrogen opens a stuck injector. If it can not open, it can not be cleaned.

The up-dated or 2nd design is multec high impedance injector which is not effected by actual line pressure, referred to as "MPFI". The disc design is located a distance from the directional spray plate and helps eliminate carbon build up.
Vacuum hold line pressure to 60, but increases to 62 PSI when absent during WOT as atmospheric pressure floods the intake. This simply increase the amount of fuel delivery during the same injector on-time. This increase of fuel works to keep lean conditions from occurring, just like a accelerator pump shot inside a carburetor. Injector on-time is increased at the same time due to TPS and MAP inputs. O2 sensors report what they see after the suck, squash bang, blow occurs. Look at them as hydrocarbon sensors, as they produce more voltages when expose to more hydrocarbons in the exhaust stream.
In short, a good gauge with 56 - 62 should put you in the green, running poppet style injectors.
Providing there is no line pressure drop at higher RPM's as volume is required, otherwise loss of power or starving for fuel. Loss of volume can come from a restricted fuel filter, marginal fuel pump, restricted sock type tank filter on pump or pinched line...or act like it with a potato in the tailpipe.
 

Slime

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Messages
100
Reaction score
65
Location
Louisville, Tennessee
1. Fuel pressure test
2. Fuel pump voltage test--MUST be done as close to the fuel pump as practical--typically at the wire harness connector just before the wires go up over the top of the tank to the fuel tank connector (which would be inaccessable with the tank in place.) You'd also have to check the voltage on the ground wire, again as close to the pump as you can get.
3. Fuel pump amperage test. A multimeter should be able to test the ~7 amp draw that's typical. Most will go to 10 amps, some will go higher. The REAL test is to connect a low-amperage probe to an oscilloscope, so you can look at the amperage pattern.

Not many folks have a low-amps probe and an oscilloscope--but--I refuse to yank the tank without performing this test. I can see the amperage draw of each bar in the fuel pump armature, compare it to the others, calculate the motor RPM, and verify that the electric motor part of the fuel pump is still serviceable.
So, do you mean it should have 7 amps at the connection at the tank?
 

Slime

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Messages
100
Reaction score
65
Location
Louisville, Tennessee
Well, since I had the bed up, I replaced the fuel pump and strainer....now...it won't start. After crawling around under the truck, near the fuel filter I found a bunch of electrical tape around the wiring harness. WTF Someone has used wire tapes on part of the wires! And those wires don't go anywhere but they were taped off! GRRRRRRR...I bought this truck off the original owes family. Two owes, brothers and it was serviced some at the dealer at least. It doesn't appear to be the fuel pump wires and I have no I sea what they were trying to do. I'm sure what ever it is, it's not good. Any body have a wiring schematic for a 1997? I have one for 97-99. Not sure if it's the same or not.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Slime

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Messages
100
Reaction score
65
Location
Louisville, Tennessee
Well, still nothing. Fixed the wiring issues, but none of them were fuel pump related. When I test the relay socket, I no longer get anything when I jump socket #85 to #86 ( the ones that used to pressurize the fuel line ) Man, I was hoping not to have to raise the bed again...
 

Slime

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Messages
100
Reaction score
65
Location
Louisville, Tennessee
Okay, I'd like to think I'm some great mechanic, but probably not. So, after taking everything apart , pulling the fuel pump and seeing if it actually worked ( it did as did the old one ) the thing runs! I hope it still does tomorrow too. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for the help and putting up with me. Now, maybe I can finish my Astro van project and get some stuff done. Man, a truck is just necessary today..
 

John Thompson

Newbie
Joined
May 19, 2016
Messages
1
Reaction score
2
Location
Aurora, CO
Hi - just saw this thread - hope you've solved your problem, Slime. My '94 had similar "now it runs, now it doesn't" problems that seemed to be fuel related, however the final culprit was a faulty ignition control module - it was a spark issue, not a fuel issue. Again - I hope you've solved your problem, but if it comes back, maybe that's worth a look.
 

Slime

I'm Awesome
Joined
Dec 1, 2017
Messages
100
Reaction score
65
Location
Louisville, Tennessee
It's Baaaaaack....Well, I'm again at a lose. Went out Monday morning to go to work and the same issue! Cranking and not starting. So, I take the car to work. Come home from work...BANG, it starts and runs fine. WTF ?! I'm beginning to think it's not the fuel pump but maybe something in the electrical part of the fuel system, maybe. I really don't have a clue at this point. Aggravating..
 

MRAJB

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 18, 2016
Messages
59
Reaction score
18
Location
NJ
I can't add anything, but I have the same issue for about 12 months now. Seems that when it rain or is humid out, my truck is less likely to start. However if I daily drive it, its fine, made it through an entire winter without issue.

However once spring summer arrived and I don't drive it as much , I have the crank no start issue randomly. I've gone so far as to plan when I need to use the truck by using my remote starter and let it run for 15 min, each day before the day I actually need to drive the truck.
 

Schurkey

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2018
Messages
11,251
Reaction score
14,249
Location
The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
I can't add anything, but I have the same issue for about 12 months now. Seems that when it rain or is humid out, my truck is less likely to start. However if I daily drive it, its fine, made it through an entire winter without issue.

However once spring summer arrived and I don't drive it as much , I have the crank no start issue randomly. I've gone so far as to plan when I need to use the truck by using my remote starter and let it run for 15 min, each day before the day I actually need to drive the truck.
Does the fuel pump prime when the key is turned on?

What is the fuel pressure?
 
Top