4wd wont disengage need help

[tj98gmc]

you have to go with whatever gear you have already,,both axles have to match,, meaning front and back,, if you swap gears in the back than you are going to have to in the front as well,,, if not the truck will not go right when you use 4wd

 

[Vortec Lover]

yes, good idea to go into lower gears, but you'll have to redo the front as well. ^^^ he says don't, but I say go all out so you don't have to fix it all the time. Get it done right or you're wasting time

 

[tj98gmc]

yes, good idea to go into lower gears, but you'll have to redo the front as well. ^^^ he says don't, but I say go all out so you don't have to fix it all the time. Get it done right or you're wasting time

im not saying not to do it,, i agree it might be a good idea,,, i just wanted to make sure he understood that you cant just change the rear,,, you need to do both front and rear

 

[bigblue24]

im not saying not to do it,, i agree it might be a good idea,,, i just wanted to make sure he understood that you cant just change the rear,,, you need to do both front and rear

Thanks guys and do u guy think it was a reason my rear went or they just go out because i was feeling like my hoe was locked in to 4 lo

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[Vortec Lover]

im not saying not to do it,, i agree it might be a good idea,,, i just wanted to make sure he understood that you cant just change the rear,,, you need to do both front and rear

gotcha

Thanks guys and do u guy think it was a reason my rear went or they just go out because i was feeling like my hoe was locked in to 4 lo

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Na, that would hurt something worse than your gears....

What size are your rims/tires? How agressive do you drive? How much do you tow and how often? These are questions that are more likely to hurt your axle. Really, being stuck in 4 low would be more damaging to your engine than anything else because you would have to be revving up to ridiculous speeds to go anywhere.

 

[bigblue24]

gotcha



Na, that would hurt something worse than your gears....

What size are your rims/tires? How agressive do you drive? How much do you tow and how often? These are questions that are more likely to hurt your axle. Really, being stuck in 4 low would be more damaging to your engine than anything else because you would have to be revving up to ridiculous speeds to go anywhere.

Aw ok i feed some speed to it every now and then but nothing to rough but i have been running 24s since i bought it and dont know how the last owner kept it up but i see what ur saying

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[96-1500]

Not going to chime in on gear ratios. That's a whole other debate.
But yes...go get a 14 bolt. You can find 6-lug ones in 1500 trucks with the F44 package, some of the earlier models were badged as 2500 (I'm working on one right now, it's a '94). An easy place to look for them is in 1500 4x4 Diesels. I believe they were all optioned with 6-lug 14 bolts.

In case you didn't know, 14-bolt means it has 14 bolts holding the diff cover on. 10-bolt means....10 bolts Go look and see if you can find one in a junkyard with that setup and 6-lug hubs, so your rims will mount up. As said earlier, if you get an 8-lug you will either have to run different rims (don't recommend, as you can't do tire rotations), or get the axles/hubs changed.
As for gear ratios, look in the glove box at your RPO codes.
The commonest ratios are:
GU6 = 3.42
GT4 = 3.73
GT5 = 4.10
G80 obviously means it has a factory G80 locker. These codes are the same no matter what rear end or year of truck you have.

14 bolts are considerably stronger than a 10 bolt, they will bolt right up as long as you get one from a 4x4. If you get one from a 2wd, you will need to do some modifications as they are narrower.
Either way, the u-joints are of a different size so you have two logical options: get a conversion u-joint (I forget the part # off hand) or just swap the yoke off your 10-bolt onto the new 14-bolt. It will bolt right up, and you can use stock u-joints for your truck.
You may need to use the e-brake cables off the donor truck. I'm not sure.

I'd highly recommend this mod...

 

[Vortec Lover]

Not going to chime in on gear ratios. That's a whole other debate.
But yes...go get a 14 bolt. You can find 6-lug ones in 1500 trucks with the F44 package, some of the earlier models were badged as 2500 (I'm working on one right now, it's a '94). An easy place to look for them is in 1500 4x4 Diesels. I believe they were all optioned with 6-lug 14 bolts.

In case you didn't know, 14-bolt means it has 14 bolts holding the diff cover on. 10-bolt means....10 bolts Go look and see if you can find one in a junkyard with that setup and 6-lug hubs, so your rims will mount up. As said earlier, if you get an 8-lug you will either have to run different rims (don't recommend, as you can't do tire rotations), or get the axles/hubs changed.
As for gear ratios, look in the glove box at your RPO codes.
The commonest ratios are:
GU6 = 3.42
GT4 = 3.73
GT5 = 4.10
G80 obviously means it has a factory G80 locker. These codes are the same no matter what rear end or year of truck you have.

14 bolts are considerably stronger than a 10 bolt, they will bolt right up as long as you get one from a 4x4. If you get one from a 2wd, you will need to do some modifications as they are narrower.
Either way, the u-joints are of a different size so you have two logical options: get a conversion u-joint (I forget the part # off hand) or just swap the yoke off your 10-bolt onto the new 14-bolt. It will bolt right up, and you can use stock u-joints for your truck.
You may need to use the e-brake cables off the donor truck. I'm not sure.

I'd highly recommend this mod...

That's a good post right there!! Rep and I'm saving that info

 

[bigblue24]

Ima hit the yards tomarrow

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[Vortec Lover]

Ima hit the yards tomarrow

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Keep us posted on how the search/install goes... I'm going to have to do this myself one of these days if I'm going to move to 35's