454 peanut port combination

[sewlow]

Welcome, Kr1st1an! Nice truck.

techinspector1. Great posts.
Looking forward to reading what you have to say when it comes to cam/torque converter choices vs. vehicle weight vs. gear ratio vs. tire height.

 

[Kr1st1an]

@techinspector1 Very very thankful having you "onboard" this project. Thank you for your time and answers!

A stroker crank was mentioned, but I am of the opinion that if you choose the correct parts, you will not need more than 454 cubic inches to generate over 500 ft/lbs of torque and I don't think you will need any more than that for a street-driven truck

I hear you, and that sounds more than enught for me. Why i sort of wanted a kit was also for i have lack of experience whats OK wear and not. If i buy new hopefully all the tolerances would be good. For example, look at this crankshaft between the lines there is a small wear in the surface that i can feel but almost not see.

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This is another, look at the main bearing, diffrent numbers. I guess this is from factory to get the tolerances right..?

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BUT again, if you guys can stand my questions i rather keep this and and go for your plan @techinspector1

A question that belongs here. There are bored holes in the damper. Is this because the rotating assembly is balanced externally. Or is it just bored holes balancing the damper?

Please read carefully through ALL of the attached article and then we can discuss this project further.

I've read throw most most of the articles and a enormous amount of sub links. Have you got a plan for me what to do?

I would source the Quadrajet from Cliff High Performance...……..

Sounds great, i gladly go for a carb. From what there homepage says it sounds like they have great service.

Your stock "STACK" of reciprocating parts should measure 1.645" for the piston compression height, 6.135" for the rod length and 2.000" for the crank radius, making a stack of 9.780". The standard block deck height of the BBC block should be 9.800".

From watching John K on Youtube i have this meassure. Just not here now, ill get back.

You are now tasked with weighing your piston, rings and pin before you go on a quest for new oversize pistons.

Will do this weekend!

While you are shopping around, have your machine shop to put a good 5-angle valve job on the heads. Also, have someone cc the heads or do it yourself.

Will do, but i guess after reading all thoose porting threads you have awork for me before we do the 5 angle valve job? Whats the plan with valves and springs?

I did a little work for you concerning static compression ratio....
Using a Fel-Pro head gasket, Summit part number FEL-17046.....
Figuring your combustion chambers at 116 cc's

Does this mean i dont need to cc them? Ive seen both 118cc and 116cc. Maybe 118 is factory cc and 116 real cc?

This motor will want full-length headers, 1 3/4" minimum diameter. Choose headers with a minimum flange thickness of 3/8"

Yes, ive understood this is important. We will also add this to shopping list.

We dont have to buy all from Summit, i can also send it all to a friend in the USA and take it in a container from USA to Sweden together with other cars.. Next shipment is in Oktober but i guess that will be fine.

Again, thanks alot!

 

[techinspector1]

If you don't like the looks of the crankshaft journals, have your machine shop to grind them to the first undersize, -0.010". Everyone makes bearings for these cranks in -0.010", -0.020" and -0.030" undersize.

Both the Chevrolet Gen I small block 400 cubic inch motor and the Gen I big block 454 cubic inch motors are externally balanced. The harmonic damper and the flexplate (for automatic transmission) or flywheel (for manual transmission) have eccentric weights on them for balancing, instead of the motor being balanced internally with Mallory metal, which is very expensive. All other Chevrolet motors that I have worked on are balanced internally and have neutral balance harmonic dampers and flexplates/flywheels. Sometimes, due to age and oil/chemicals, the outer inertia ring on the damper will slip circumferentially compared to the inner steel hub and will offer up bogus ignition timing (top dead center) information. When doing a rebuild such as you are planning, it is a good idea to use a piston stop tool to check top dead center on the inertia ring.

 

[Tom Mobley]

OMG, I see my old friend Schurkey here. He knows who I am.

Kristian , you have mail

 

[Tom Mobley]

what does the inside of the #1 main bearing look like?

 

[techinspector1]

I sent you the wrong link on the first post. Here is the correct one...
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-building-a-peanut-port-big-block-combo.2900/

 

[Schurkey]

OMG, I see my old friend Schurkey here. He knows who I am.

Yeah, they let anyone in here. I didn't even have to have personal references or anything.

I didn't know you had a GM400 truck, though.

 

[Tom Mobley]

I don't. I have a 57 Chevy truck. Was I driving it when you were here?

I was working with Kristian over at chevelles, he asked me to come by here. Inspector1 seems to be pretty good.

Good to see you.

 

[Kr1st1an]

I made a quick and easy wristpin removal tool if any one is intrested. Allphotos and more goes also to the Dropbox link.

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You are now tasked with weighing your piston, rings and pin before you go on a quest for new oversize pistons.

Piston weights 739 gram
Rings weight 62 gram
Wristpin weights 151 gram

All together 952 gram

What size valves are in your cylinder heads? I didn't see a photo of the combustion chambers.

43mm and 52mm Photos of it is now on dropbox

From watching John K on Youtube i have this meassure. Just not here now, ill get back.

Pistion (TDC) to deck with my pistons were 0,60mmwhen i dissambled.

what does the inside of the #1 main bearing look like?

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I think they look worse than they are, i cant feel the scratches with my fingers. After looking at other jurnals (google, youtube) i think mine is good to go after a polish. But again, i dont know for sure, i guess i bring it to my machinist ask ask about his opinion.


Maybe i asked us to "attack" this project wrong. I asked to build this engine from "bottom" to top starting with crank and work us up to heads.

But i think i have to ask you guys this: What has to be done with the heads for them to work in this project? Otherwise we put lot of time in getting everything to work with the PP heads and in last sec we change them and have to change everything again.. Or what do you think?

 

[techinspector1]

The work that has to be done to the heads is outlined in the link to Grumpy that I provided you in post 16. What I was suggesting is a low-buck plan re-using the cast iron peanut port heads that came on your motor. Grumpy will outline the work to be done to them to make a motor that produces 500 ft/lbs of torque. I automatically assumed that you wanted to keep costs to a minimum and re-use as many of the parts that you can, but if you want to expand the budget and buy a set of Airflow Research 265 cc intake port heads, then we will be way ahead of the game, albeit at greater cost.

Not sure what you mean about attacking the project wrong. Do you mean that you want to say and do everything that you can about the block, then do the same to the crank, then the rods, then the pistons, etc.?

OK, I can go with that plan. Load the block up and take it to a machine shop that you trust and have them inspect it for the decks being flat and the corners of the block being equidistant from the crank bore centerline. Tell them that you will be using a steel shim head gasket to finalize piston to head dimension at 1.0 mm-1.1 mm, depending on gasket thickness. Find out if the block will take a 0.030" (0.76199 mm) overbore for new pistons or if it will require a bigger bore due to some unforeseen blemish in one or more of the bores. Take the crankshaft along too and ask if it needs polishing or grinding to the first undersize bearings. Take the rods with you and ask how much they want to install aftermarket premium bolts and nuts and re-size the big ends. You will also want to have them magnafluxed for cracks.

Maybe I am assuming too much. If you don't want me to be involved in this project, please just say so.