400 cracked block?

[badco]

400 sbc need a specific balancer and flexplate\ flywheel.
As it is externally balanced. So your new 350 flywheel will not work.

If it was a vortec flexplate the balance is least of worries. Wont even bolt up to the older two piece crankshaft

 

[884x4310ci]

Yeah. That also. 2 piece seal vs 1 piece seal. Crank is different and so is flexplate\ flywheel.

 

[Chuck_13]

If you're really on a short budget and you're clearly capable of swapping a short block - could you put new rod and main bearings in the second motor you got from the wrecker? Probably just worn out. Probably the cheapest way to get back on the road.

A set of main and rod bearings is what,60 bucks?Throw in a new oil pump and cam bearings,another 60 or so.Rings and gaskets,another $100?That'd be the way to go IMHO,do it and not have to worry about it no more!

 

[TBMG270]

If you're really on a short budget and you're clearly capable of swapping a short block - could you put new rod and main bearings in the second motor you got from the wrecker? Probably just worn out. Probably the cheapest way to get back on the road.

Crank is no good. Already got deep grooves.

 

[TBMG270]

4 bolt main 400 blocks crack next to the short outside bolts. 2 bolt blocks are pretty bulletproof. I would use the Holley cast aluminum cover as it has dowel holes and provision for crank sensor. Unless you keep it above 3000 rpm all the time, you must drill steam holes in heads. Use a 400 head gasket as a template. Unless you want to hot rod it, I would use stock 5.565 rods for low speed torque. A stock 5.7 TBI cam would also be a good choice for torque and cheap. You will need both a 400 flywheel and Harmonic balancer as both have counterweights. The balancer will need to be shortened the thickness of the reluctor to perfectly line up the serp belt. I would also use the Vortec heads for cheap. They flow better than any other production head. 'Course you could spend as much money on the engine as a new truck if that is what you want. lol Is the short block useable as is ?

Yeah the short block is good to go. Was put together by a friend of mine and I trust his work. Had it in an old 60s something pickup. Truck was totalled so he pulled the motor out. He'll give me heads too if I want em, just figured the vortecs would be best for power and keeping fuel injection.

 

[TBMG270]

A set of main and rod bearings is what,60 bucks?Throw in a new oil pump and cam bearings,another 60 or so.Rings and gaskets,another $100?That'd be the way to go IMHO,do it and not have to worry about it no more!

Needs a crank too. I have new rod and main bearings. Complete gasket set too. The 400 was just an idea, since it's sitting right in front of me with no use. I'm thinking I'm gonna put the 350 back together for now and take a little time and do the 400 right. Have an 88 k1500 rcsb that's just sitting around going nowhere. Thinking I'll turn that into a toy. Easier to go carbureted on that truck. As for the 350, I need a crank and cam bearings. I have rod and main bearings, gaskets, new oil pump, even new rings. New eagle crank is 200. Northern auto parts sells reman cranks with bearings for 200 including the core charge. I'll probably go that route. Anyone have any experience with Northern auto parts or with reman cranks in general? I'm just gonna spend the money. Truck is clapped out rusty junk but if I ever total it I'll yank the motor and drop it in another one. Gonna go down south and find a clean one next time around

 

[Hipster]

Needs a crank too. I have new rod and main bearings. Complete gasket set too. The 400 was just an idea, since it's sitting right in front of me with no use. I'm thinking I'm gonna put the 350 back together for now and take a little time and do the 400 right. Have an 88 k1500 rcsb that's just sitting around going nowhere. Thinking I'll turn that into a toy. Easier to go carbureted on that truck. As for the 350, I need a crank and cam bearings. I have rod and main bearings, gaskets, new oil pump, even new rings. New eagle crank is 200. Northern auto parts sells reman cranks with bearings for 200 including the core charge. I'll probably go that route. Anyone have any experience with Northern auto parts or with reman cranks in general? I'm just gonna spend the money. Truck is clapped out rusty junk but if I ever total it I'll yank the motor and drop it in another one. Gonna go down south and find a clean one next time around

I used several reman cranks from Advance auto. They come from a place Crankshaft Supply or Crankshaft Rebuilders or something like that. They come with bearings. I play the coupon game and have them shipped to the house free and carry the core to the local store. I don't know what they are going for as of late but if for some reason you have an issue being able to return it locally might be a factor.

Every one I have used has been spot on a .0015-.0018 on rods and mains. which is perfect for a stockish build you want to get tons of miles out of. I get the "premium" ones because I don't want one that's been cut .030+. If you putting something together you want to spin hard you might want to go with a .001 under bearing like an .0011, or .0021.

Scat/Eagle cranks are notoriously undersized so you can end up with over or out of spec clearances and a lot of shops will want to main bore the block excessively to correct it of they can't get there with bearings. Not exactly the way to go because it moves the crank centerline in relation to the bellhousing centerline and throwing off torque converter or pilot shaft alignment and tearing up pump seals. Not to say the right machinist with the right equipment can't pull that off but it might not go down like that in a shop working with 75 y/o equipment. I normally discuss with a machinist what way to go but it usually involves a standard line hone instead of line bore and hone and cutting the new crank .010+/- to get the clearance I'm looking for. The aftermarket cranks rarely go in without needing other considerations/work. Just some food for thought.

 

[badco]

I used several reman cranks from Advance auto. They come from a place Crankshaft Supply or Crankshaft Rebuilders or something like that. They come with bearings. I play the coupon game and have them shipped to the house free and carry the core to the local store. I don't know what they are going for as of late but if for some reason you have an issue being able to return it locally might be a factor.

Every one I have used has been spot on a .0015-.0018 on rods and mains. which is perfect for a stockish build you want to get tons of miles out of. I get the "premium" ones because I don't want one that's been cut .030+. If you putting something together you want to spin hard you might want to go with a .001 under bearing like an .0011, or .0021.

Scat/Eagle cranks are notoriously undersized so you can end up with over or out of spec clearances and a lot of shops will want to main bore the block excessively to correct it of they can't get there with bearings. Not exactly the way to go because it moves the crank centerline in relation to the bellhousing centerline and throwing off torque converter or pilot shaft alignment and tearing up pump seals. Not to say the right machinist with the right equipment can't pull that off but it might not go down like that in a shop working with 75 y/o equipment. I normally discuss with a machinist what way to go but it usually involves a standard line hone instead of line bore and hone and cutting the new crank .010+/- to get the clearance I'm looking for. The aftermarket cranks rarely go in without needing other considerations/work. Just some food for thought.

No builder thats any good would line hone or take block any bigger than spec. King and acl are .001 smaller than a clevlite and all of them offer a "x" bearing thats a extra ..001 clearance. Scat always has the better bearing finish but counter weights are usually out of time and harder to balance. Eagle easier to balance. Callies compstar is best out of the 4340 ones

 

[TBMG270]

I used several reman cranks from Advance auto. They come from a place Crankshaft Supply or Crankshaft Rebuilders or something like that. They come with bearings. I play the coupon game and have them shipped to the house free and carry the core to the local store. I don't know what they are going for as of late but if for some reason you have an issue being able to return it locally might be a factor.

Every one I have used has been spot on a .0015-.0018 on rods and mains. which is perfect for a stockish build you want to get tons of miles out of. I get the "premium" ones because I don't want one that's been cut .030+. If you putting something together you want to spin hard you might want to go with a .001 under bearing like an .0011, or .0021.

Scat/Eagle cranks are notoriously undersized so you can end up with over or out of spec clearances and a lot of shops will want to main bore the block excessively to correct it of they can't get there with bearings. Not exactly the way to go because it moves the crank centerline in relation to the bellhousing centerline and throwing off torque converter or pilot shaft alignment and tearing up pump seals. Not to say the right machinist with the right equipment can't pull that off but it might not go down like that in a shop working with 75 y/o equipment. I normally discuss with a machinist what way to go but it usually involves a standard line hone instead of line bore and hone and cutting the new crank .010+/- to get the clearance I'm looking for. The aftermarket cranks rarely go in without needing other considerations/work. Just some food for thought.

I think I'll order one tonight. Advance has the best deal for sure, with 20% off online it's 195 shipped and it'll be here in 3 or 4 days. After I get the core charge back I'll be in it about 160 bucks with bearings. Don't think I'll find cheaper than that. My rods are all good I think, I don't have a bore gauge but a machinist buddy lent me his inside mic which is good to .0001. number 8 had the bad bearing and by my measurements it's 1-1.5 thou out of round. That one scares me just a little bit but with the bearing in and torqued to spec it's consistent with the other 7 so I think I'll be alright. Just gonna shoot for .0015-.0025 on all the mains and rods and hopefully I can get that with the bearings it comes with. I do have some other oem rods from a different motor, could take a good on to the machinist and have the piston swapped over. Tried that once myself with an oven and a freezing wrist pin lol never again.

 

[TBMG270]

No builder thats any good would line hone or take block any bigger than spec. King and acl are .001 smaller than a clevlite and all of them offer a "x" bearing thats a extra ..001 clearance. Scat always has the better bearing finish but counter weights are usually out of time and harder to balance. Eagle easier to balance. Callies compstar is best out of the 4340 ones

What are your thoughts on a reman crank? I'm thinking that's my best option right now.