1997 K1500 Worth throwing $ into...?

[94burbk1500]

I'm nervous to switch from conventional... that's another topic tho I suppose.

I will for sure replace that oil filter housing gasket. I've been toying around with whether or not I should replace the actual housing... doesn't seem necessary tho.

There's no harm in going synthetic.

 

[94burbk1500]

I was in the same boat as you a few years ago. After a long debate over to fix it or replace it with a newer vehicle, i did a frame off resto including another frame. I have under $10,000 in the whole job.

Everything from the body down is new or NOS. Engine was perfect already, trans was rebuilt from GM, interior was mint so that saved alot.

Here are a few pics. Good luck with your choice.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Escalade bumper?

 

[big_mike]

There's no harm in going synthetic.

Not always a true statement. I have seen some high mileage engines ran their whole life on conventional only to develope leaks after the switch due to the viscosity differences between the oils. My rule of thumb is to use whatever was originally run in the motor. If it came with conventional use that, same for synthetic. Only “x” factor is if you drop in a new crate engine, then it’s players choice.

For what it’s worth I ran Castrol GTX 10w30 in my LS1 Trans Am from the day I bought it till I sold it with 180k miles on the clock. I daily drove it and beat the piss out it. When I removed the heads at 100k the cylinder were perfect and there was no old oil gunk buildup. Never a drop of synthetic went in that motor. That’s enough for me to continue trusting that oil in my truck too.

 

[jasonreichle]

if it starts leaking after syntheic then the problem was always there,. its just showing up now. so fix instead of running terrible oil... of course thats my own opinion though! im glad to hear your keeping the truck, as someone whos owned everything, every single gen of gm trucks 88 and up to 14, audis... you name it. theres a reason i bought back a 96 6.5... these trucks are just worth keeping and fixing, now im stuck with a payment on a 72,000 truck and it does the same as the 96, but i still drive it more do to the reliability and the build quality of that, because im the one that built it.

Not always a true statement. I have seen some high mileage engines ran their whole life on conventional only to develope leaks after the switch due to the viscosity differences between the oils. My rule of thumb is to use whatever was originally run in the motor. If it came with conventional use that, same for synthetic. Only “x” factor is if you drop in a new crate engine, then it’s players choice.

For what it’s worth I ran Castrol GTX 10w30 in my LS1 Trans Am from the day I bought it till I sold it with 180k miles on the clock. I daily drove it and beat the piss out it. When I removed the heads at 100k the cylinder were perfect and there was no old oil gunk buildup. Never a drop of synthetic went in that motor. That’s enough for me to continue trusting that oil in my truck too.

it

 

[jasonreichle]

if it starts leaking after syntheic then the problem was always there,. its just showing up now. so fix instead of running terrible oil... of course thats my own opinion though! im glad to hear your keeping the truck, as someone whos owned everything, every single gen of gm trucks 88 and up to 14, audis... you name it. theres a reason i bought back a 96 6.5... these trucks are just worth keeping and fixing, now im stuck with a payment on a 72,000 truck and it does the same as the 96, but i still drive it more do to the reliability and the build quality of that, because im the one that built it.

Not always a true statement. I have seen some high mileage engines ran their whole life on conventional only to develope leaks after the switch due to the viscosity differences between the oils. My rule of thumb is to use whatever was originally run in the motor. If it came with conventional use that, same for synthetic. Only “x” factor is if you drop in a new crate engine, then it’s players choice.

For what it’s worth I ran Castrol GTX 10w30 in my LS1 Trans Am from the day I bought it till I sold it with 180k miles on the clock. I daily drove it and beat the piss out it. When I removed the heads at 100k the cylinder were perfect and there was no old oil gunk buildup. Never a drop of synthetic went in that motor. That’s enough for me to continue trusting that oil in my truck too.

it

 

[jasonreichle]

if it starts leaking after syntheic then the problem was always there,. its just showing up now. so fix instead of running terrible oil... of course thats my own opinion though! im glad to hear your keeping the truck, as someone whos owned everything, every single gen of gm trucks 88 and up to 14, audis... you name it. theres a reason i bought back a 96 6.5... these trucks are just worth keeping and fixing, now im stuck with a payment on a 72,000 truck and it does the same as the 96, but i still drive it more do to the reliability and the build quality of that, because im the one that built it.

Not always a true statement. I have seen some high mileage engines ran their whole life on conventional only to develope leaks after the switch due to the viscosity differences between the oils. My rule of thumb is to use whatever was originally run in the motor. If it came with conventional use that, same for synthetic. Only “x” factor is if you drop in a new crate engine, then it’s players choice.

For what it’s worth I ran Castrol GTX 10w30 in my LS1 Trans Am from the day I bought it till I sold it with 180k miles on the clock. I daily drove it and beat the piss out it. When I removed the heads at 100k the cylinder were perfect and there was no old oil gunk buildup. Never a drop of synthetic went in that motor. That’s enough for me to continue trusting that oil in my truck too.

it

 

[alpinecrick]

I'm nervous to switch from conventional... that's another topic tho I suppose.

If there is a small seep with conventional oils and lubes, it will turn into a leak with synthetic.

And keep the damn truck..........!

 

[alpinecrick]

Not always a true statement. I have seen some high mileage engines ran their whole life on conventional only to develope leaks after the switch due to the viscosity differences between the oils.

1991 K2500 Light Duty ECSB, 5.7, NV3500, medium blue--man that was a gorgeous truck. Bought it new. Sold it with 285K on the odometer. Never cracked the motor open. Other than the usual water pump, alternator kind of stuff, the only thing that broke on the engine was the ignition module. Ran Quaker State "Semi Synthetic 4x4" 10-40 oil ALMOST it's entire life.

At about the 40K mark, a client I did some work for was a Redline dealer and talked me into trying 5-30 oil and some gear lube too. Changed the oil in the engine and the rear diff with the Redline. By the 500 mile with Redline oil/lube in it, the valve covers were leaking, the back of the intake was leaking somewhere, and the diff cover gasket was leaking like a sieve.

By the 1500 mile mark I couldn't stand it and changed out all the Redline. From then on the there was a tiny seep somewhere in the back of the intake, but so small I never addressed it. I usually washed the engine bay when I washed the truck so it always cleaned up fine. Everything else stopped leaking.

I run 5-30 synthetic in my 96 and 97 but am tempted to be like df2x4 and run conventional oil. I bought two cases of Valvoliine 75-90 conventional gear lube for 20 bucks a couple years ago, and when I started using it my front axle seals stopped seeping oil.

 

[shorepatrol]

if it starts leaking after syntheic then the problem was always there,. its just showing up now. so fix instead of running terrible oil... of course thats my own opinion though! im glad to hear your keeping the truck, as someone whos owned everything, every single gen of gm trucks 88 and up to 14, audis... you name it. theres a reason i bought back a 96 6.5... these trucks are just worth keeping and fixing, now im stuck with a payment on a 72,000 truck and it does the same as the 96, but i still drive it more do to the reliability and the build quality of that, because im the one that built it.

it

Run semi synthetic high mileage. Mine leaked when I went full synth. No leaks after the change

 

[jasonreichle]

Run semi synthetic high mileage. Mine leaked when I went full synth. No leaks after the change

yup not a bad oil, gotta watch which one you go for though some are like a 20/80 mixture and some are 60/40. they all have additives to stop leaking though which is nice because you are gtting a better oil and its got stuff for the milage and break down.

 

[aleebee156]

I have much less experience with engines than I do the rest of a vehicle, that’s my big hold up on changing. Since the conventional is working I’m likely gonna just keep running conventional.

Changed front/rear diff fluid and transfer case fluid over the weekend. Keeping her and time for maintenance!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk