1996 Chev won't fire up

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One1999Chev

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Got a new 750 amperage battery and tried cleaning some of my battery cables up, started up after. Been driving around town today and I am still noticing its acting sluggish when firing up sometimes, like its tired i guess? I could get a video if that would help...maybe it is something else.
I also noticed I have a weird noise coming from my mufflers every 5 to 10 seconds like a very tiny backfire...?
 

df2x4

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Your battery cables might be corroded internally. I'd strip some insulation off of the very end of the wire and check for that blue corrosion. If it's made it inside the wire you need new cables.
 

One1999Chev

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Your battery cables might be corroded internally. I'd strip some insulation off of the very end of the wire and check for that blue corrosion. If it's made it inside the wire you need new cables.
Where can I get new cables? I tried to find the end for it before and no shop I went to sold them...and how much work is it to replace the entire positive cable?
 

df2x4

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Where can I get new cables? I tried to find the end for it before and no shop I went to sold them...and how much work is it to replace the entire positive cable?

Shouldn't be much work at all. Any major parts store or website should be able to get the cable for you. This would also be a good time to do the "big three" upgrade, which consists of larger gauge wire for the main three charging system wires. Takes a lot of stress off of the electrical system. There's a member here selling kits to do this, which would include the positive cable you need.

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/my-big-3-kits-for-sell.34720/
 

94silveraydo

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If you're running a sub and amp you should really get the right side mount adapter to handle the extra wires. The other option to prevent battery corrosion in this case is to wire the hot for the amp to the hot on the back of the alternator. Also, 750 sounds a bit weak for a Silverado, I'm running a 900 cold cranking amp 1100 warm amp battery in both of mine. The exhausted sounds do sound like a bit of timing issues, but it could also just be coughing up the crap that built up when it was running iffy.
 

df2x4

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The other option to prevent battery corrosion in this case is to wire the hot for the amp to the hot on the back of the alternator.

Don't do this. You will regret it. You need the voltage stabilization from the battery, especially for an audio application.
 

Biggershaft96

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If you're running a sub and amp you should really get the right side mount adapter to handle the extra wires. The other option to prevent battery corrosion in this case is to wire the hot for the amp to the hot on the back of the alternator. Also, 750 sounds a bit weak for a Silverado, I'm running a 900 cold cranking amp 1100 warm amp battery in both of mine. The exhausted sounds do sound like a bit of timing issues, but it could also just be coughing up the crap that built up when it was running iffy.
750 is plenty. Ive been running the same 700cca 875ca battery for the past 3 years with zero problems. Ive left lights and radio on overnight before with no problems in the morning. It used to run a 1800w amp and 2 12s, and a 12k winch.
 

One1999Chev

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I heard 750-1000 CCA for our pickups, and I just went with 750 since this is a beater truck and I don't plan on throwing tonnes of cash at it to make it awesome lol, just want "fairly" reliable....
Can anyone show me a link or a pic of the proper side setup I should have for my amp wiring? I feel like if I fixed this up it could help...I have had problems with this area before, one time I was on the highway and my battery burnt through the lead on the cable and my truck just died while driving...Took it to a shop and they put a new end on I believe and replaced the lead. Also tried fixing it up after that because it was leaking all over and my subs kept cutting out if i turned them up too loud, replaced the lead again and looked for a new cable end but didn't end up finding one.

At the moment I have it on my top post with a top-post clamp because I have so many ******* wires already going to the positive terminal on the side, and my screw can't hold any more stuff.
 

94silveraydo

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Don't do this. You will regret it. You need the voltage stabilization from the battery, especially for an audio application.
The amp is still connected to the battery as the alternator is also connected to the battery. The only thing connecting to the back of the alternator does is to give a more solid connection to the positive wiring.
 
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