1996 c1500 brakes

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HeavyAsAChevy

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Its time to do brakes. My front left occasionally squeaks when I brake and the truck hasn't had brakes done in at least 5 years. What would be the way to go? I figure I'll probably get new calipers on the front. I've already done the wheel cylinders on the rear. Is there any recommended brand of pads and calipers? Should I replace the brake lines? Any opinions are appreciated. Thanks guys.
 

df2x4

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Rant incoming, I've just recently upgraded the brakes on my red '97 C1500 so I can probably answer some of this.

The BEST thing you can possibly do to improve brake performance and pedal feel on these trucks IMO is to have the system bled (including the ABS module) using a Tech 2 or similar bi-directional scan tool. You will need a pretty large amount of fluid to do this. Once you've got all your new parts on I would be absolutely sure to get this done.

I would recommend installing braided stainless soft lines in place of the factory rubber ones. I used Russell part number 672340. This will also improve pedal feel quite a bit.

Regarding pads and shoes, look for something with a DOT friction code of FF or better if you want more stopping power. The two letter code lets you know the pad material's coefficient of friction, AKA how aggressive it is. First letter is cold, second letter is hot. Basically the higher the letter code, the faster they'll stop. GG will stop faster than FF for example. More info on that here on page 5:

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/ebc-yellowstuff-brake-pads-worth-it.47903/

Personally I used Raybestos EHT369H pads on the front (GG code) and Raybestos 675PG shoes on the rear (FF code). These are the most aggressive pads and shoes that I could find for a C1500 with the 10" rear brakes.

Rotors... I know there are a few different schools of thought on this but I went with Raybestos 56258PER slotted. I've read that slotted rotors help with cooling for aggressive pad compounds. Not sure how true that is, but I've been happy with them so far. Whatever you do I would stay away from anything drilled, as those seem to be more prone to cracking and durability issues from what I've read. A good solid rotor would probably be fine too.

Drums... I went with the cheapest I could find (Raybestos 2572R) and it was a massive headache. They were out of round on arrival and created a pretty nasty pedal pulsation. My mechanic inspected them and found that they were so far out of spec that it made more sense to just buy a different set rather than turn them. I had him get a set from his local parts connection (not sure what brand) and those were fine. Long story short, just have someone make sure they're nice and round before you put them on no matter what you go with.

Calipers... I went with PowerStop S4299 remans. Why? Well because they're powder coated red of course. (My truck is red) :biggrin: No complaints, they went on fine and work great.

While I was doing this I also bought all new disc and drum hardware, and about a gallon of Wilwood DOT 3 brake fluid. (EDIT - Raybestos wheel cylinders, too.) After having my mechanic install everything and bleed the system until fresh fluid showed up at all four corners, the truck has the best brakes it's ever had by far. My dad drove it a few days ago for the first time since I had all that done, and he commented that it never stopped that well when he owned it. The results are pretty impressive.
 
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Schurkey

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The most-contaminated fluid in a brake system is usually what's in the calipers/wheel cylinders.
1. Get rid of it. Flush the brake fluid. CLEAN THE RESERVOIR first. And you'll need a scan tool to bleed the ABS. I'm finding that out the hard way.
2. Do not push used brake fluid backwards through the ABS system by compressing the caliper pistons back into the caliper without opening the bleeder screw. And make sure the bleeder screw isn't plugged with dreck, first.

It makes sense to take calipers apart for cleaning and inspection; or just replace with rebuilt or "new". Tougher call with wheel cylinders, as you'll likely wreck the dust seals getting the pistons out. You could rebuild the wheel cylinders, but the Chinese rebuild kit costs as much as a Chinese wheel cylinder, but has no warranty.

Beware "new". "New" usually means "Made in China". The quality is suspect. Given a choice, I will pull calipers apart, clean 'em up, and put them back together on my own vehicles. Usually, no parts needed--just cleaning.

"Rebuilt" calipers may have "repair kits" installed for the bleeder screws. DO NOT BUY a caliper with a bleeder-screw repair kit in it. The "repaired" bleeder screw is small and weak.

Steel-braid-over-Teflon- (PTFE-) liner brake hoses are nice. I won't remove "good" rubber hoses to install the steel-braid units, but if the vehicle needs new hose(s) anyway, I upgrade. BEWARE that the steel-braid hoses generally DO NOT FIT RIGHT, they're the wrong length, or they don't have the formed-steel tube coming out of the caliper that keeps the hose routed nicely. They'll need to be kept clear of anything they can rub against, or the hose needs to be protected by wrapping it or the offending item with rubber. At the other end, the part that fits into the lil' bracket on the frame, and connects to the brake tubing won't be keyed to the bracket. DO NOT TWIST THE TEFLON-LINER HOSE WHEN TIGHTENING THE TUBING.

The rear brakes on that vehicle are almost certainly the 254mm (10 inch) leading/trailing shoe drums. They're garbage. Only one shoe on each side is actually doing anything, which is why it's common for the front shoe on each side to wear out long before the rear shoe. And you need to USE the park-brake regularly or they go out-of-adjustment. I solved that problem by upgrading the rear brakes to the 11.x inch drums from a 2500; but that's easy on 4WD and harder on 2wd because the bigger brakes come with six-lug axles instead of five-lug axles.

Tomorrow, I get to replace at least one metal brake tube on the right rear wheel cylinder. Twisted it off removing the wheel cylinder. Any brake tubing that's rotted needs to "go", although the worst years for that were in the 2000s.
 

Erik the Awful

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I like Raybestos Service Grade Ceramic pads, SGD369C for C1500s. They're dirt cheap - $10, but wear good and stop well. It looks like they're DOT code FF.

The ETH369H pads df2x4 recommends are still very cheap at $27, and I'd probably go with those if I hadn't just done my brakes.

The Raybestos 56258R R-line rotors are decent, and at $45 each they're the cheapest option. I wouldn't expect to be able to turn them without them warping. If you want to go higher quality, Raybestos' 56258 is $78 each.

SGD369Cs with 56258Rs - $100
ETH369Hs with 56258s - $183

I don't like drilled or slotted rotors. We run solid rotors on our racecar and have no issues with heat. Hitting the brake pedal is like dropping an anchor. Run good pads and solid rotors and you won't be disapointed. I have never heard of anyone running drilled rotors without them cracking. Here's Powerstop's take: https://www.powerstop.com/drilled-vs-slotted-rotors-what-is-better/
 

Schurkey

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Drilled/slotted rotors tend to be the same bottom-feeder Chinese "white box" rotors for sale at every parts store, except that someone throws 'em on a CNC, high-speed milling machine, and then puts the result into a four-color box with the decimal point moved over one place on the price tag.

The best rotors are the ones with THICK iron sides, and minimal air space in between. Most aftermarket rotors are "lightweight", having thin iron and big air vents in the center.
 

92GMCK2500

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Drums... I went with the cheapest I could find (Raybestos 2572R) and it was a massive headache.
This absolutely happened to me too. I chased weird scraping, grinding noises for months. I dis/re-assembled 2 or 3 times checking things over.

Ended up that the new drums were not true. Skip the headache, get your drums turned at your local machine shop.

Also, read the GM service manual and adjust your rear brakes following the proper procedures and order.

Bleeding is also key as mentioned by others.

Getting the simple things right will really help, I learnt a lot but had headaches along the way.

Hope these responses can help you too!
 
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