UPDATE:
This project has been a giant thorn in my side, haven't really had the money to finish it, and that has bothered me.. But things are starting to come around so here we go.
Got the entire frame painted gloss black, coat of KBS Rust Seal covered in Valspar farm implement black. Ran new brake lines, and reinstalled the tank using new fuel tank straps to replace the old rusty ones.
You must be registered for see images attach
So the tank is in, and the chassis is pretty much ready for the motor. Having a hard time finding fuel lines for the C3500 CCLB, so I'm just going to run stainless 6AN lines all the way from the tank up.
You must be registered for see images attach
But first, I wanted to make sure the motor wouldn't leak. It's a good runner, but the tappet cover, front seal, KDP fix, and rear main seal are just a lot easier to do now. This is my first Cummins I've ever worked on. So with no prior experience, it was a learning experience to say the least.
If you're new to these engines, pick up the B series cummins manual on CD and plug it into your computer while you're working. It will allow you to follow the step by step instructions (with torque specs) in order to re-seal your engine. Even if it doesn't leak, things like Tappet cover, rear main are just a ton easier to replace now.
First, I pinned the KDP (Killer Dowel Pin) and replaced the front seal, which was pretty straightforward. I bought the KDP kit just because it was easier to spend the $15 rather than mess around and try to find a bolt and make a tab from scratch. You could easily save the $15, I just found it easier to buy the kit with free shipping off ebay.
You must be registered for see images attach
As you can see, the KDP was trying to work it's way out. Caught it just in time.
You must be registered for see images attach
Next was the nerve racking part. Pulling off the injection pump. This had me worried for quite some time. After building up the courage to do it, it wasn't worth stressing over.. Pin timing and pulling the pump off these engines is not that difficult. You just need a puller for the injection pump gear. I bought one of ebay for cheap, but steering wheel pullers and other pullers supposedly work just fine.
NOTE: I did however make a
rookie mistake. Following the instructions in the manual I set the engine to TDC and pinned the pump. Upon loosening the injection pump drive gear bolt even with a breaker bar on the crank, the motor just turned ever so slightly and broke the plastic timing pin inside the injection pump. Not good..
You must be registered for see images attach
After trying to fish it out, I talked to a very well knowledgeable pump guy who told me to fill the pump with diesel fuel, and shake it and pour it out. Did the trick and it saved my butt. So I would say, bust injection pump drive gear nut free first, then set the pins on TDC. Then pull the pump.
(There are many threads and videos on how to set a 12V to TDC, so I wont cover that here)
You must be registered for see images attach
Once the pump is off, you can replace your tappet cover gasket.
I originally planned to use my OEM one, as non-baffled billet tappet covers tend to spit out oil. However, after further discussion with some who've used non-baffled billets. I just figured I'd assume not have it leak, and run a catch can on the tappet cover ports.
(Picture shows billet tappet cover ports with 10AN fittings.)
You can see its a non-baffled cover (from Ebay), so without some sort of catch can, it's going to spit oil out of those two tubes. I planned to use the stock cover, but from what I've heard, stock tappet covers are just too prone to leaking even after replacing the gasket. There are billet tappets with baffled crankcase tubes, but they're about double what I paid for this one. So i'll just run this one with some AN lines and a catch can.
I also replaced the fuel filter with a Fleetguard filter while I was working on it.
You must be registered for see images attach
So.... after a rookie mistake, and a whole lot of learning, I finished up the reseal, slid the fuel plate forward, and might upgrade/modify that and the AFC housing down the road.
Only thing left to do is the governor springs (3K) or (4K with 60 lb valve springs), and buy a new power steering pump (from a 24V cummins) which matches the GM hydroboost system.
Additionally, before the motor goes in, I figured I'd do an upgrade to the steering shaft. Since my truck is a 93, the 84-00 XJ shaft works perfect as a replacement for the stock shaft.
There is already a write up on this, so I wont go into detail about how to upgrade the steering shaft. Figured it would be easier to replace now, and would work to accommodate my truck whether or not I am required to use the body lift. (if I have clearance I'll take the body lift off)
You must be registered for see images attach
Motor mounts I still need to purchase, but will be doing so in the next couple weeks. Outside of Autoworld/syndicate chop shop/making your own, I did notice an ebay seller is now selling motor mounts for the GMT400 trucks. Reasonably priced, cheaper than auto world. Auto world's mounts come with a poly isolator, which is nice, but much more expensive.
You must be registered for see images attach
Once I get the mounts and swap in the 3 or 4K governor springs, I should be able to put the engine in permanently, then I can start hooking things up.
NOTE:
Also ordered some adapters for the temp and OPS sensors. Sizes indicated below.
Temperature sender: 3/4 NPT to 3/8 NPT
Oil Pressure Switch: 1/8 NPT to 1/4 NPT