‘88 Sierra engine’s knocking, timings right at 0° no CEL but i have 7 codes on my code reader (images below)

[Beetlejuice]

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[Beetlejuice]

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[Beetlejuice]

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[Schurkey]

Clear 'em all, see what comes back.

The 50-series codes concern me.

 

[Beetlejuice]

Not sure if I’m posting these against some sort of rules, please let me know so I can fix my post. New to posting but I’ve been lurking on this forum and a bunch of others for a couple years now. PLEASE HELP

Any questions anyone has I will gladly answer. Bought this ‘88 Sierra 2500 few months back thinking I can fix it with a new fuel pump and I mean I have gotten it a lot better than it was I’ve replaced damn near the entire ignition system, and a lot of fuel system components. At first it wasn’t knocking til I f****d with the timing. I have to crank it for about 5 seconds and she starts, but knocks and the knocking gets wayy louder when I give it some throttle, and even bogs down/stutters a bit. I don’t know if my distrbtr is 180° or not or what exactly my problem(s) are. I’m getting infuriated and ready to take it to a shop. Most issues on these trucks I can tackle but this one’s had me scratching my head for weeks now

 

[Beetlejuice]

Clear 'em all, see what comes back.

The 50-series codes concern me.

On it, I’ll go do that now thanks for the reply! I’ll let you know what comes back. I hope it’s nothing too concerning but if im screwed I’m screwed. Only put in about $1500 into it so far

 

[Beetlejuice]

On it, I’ll go do that now thanks for the reply! I’ll let you know what comes back. I hope it’s nothing too concerning but if im screwed I’m screwed. Only put in about $1500 into it so far

I say $1500 like thats chump change but I meant to also add the truck itself and that was $750 so that and another $750 in tools/parts whereabouts.

 

[Beetlejuice]

Clear 'em all, see what comes back.

The 50-series codes concern me.

Alrighty I cleared em and now I have 11 codes instead of 7…. Could it be a bad ECM I wonder?

 

[Schurkey]

I’ve replaced damn near the entire ignition system,

At first it wasn’t knocking til I f****d with the timing.

Re-check your spark plug wire routing.

Verify base ignition timing.

and a lot of fuel system components.

I have to crank it for about 5 seconds

Does the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when the key is turned from "Off" to "Run"?

she starts, but knocks and the knocking gets wayy louder when I give it some throttle, and even bogs down/stutters a bit.

My truck did exactly that...when the head gasket popped between #3 and #5. IF (big IF) I had caught it right away, I wouldn't have blow-torched a gouge in the deck surface and the cylinder head between those two cylinders. But I didn't, so the blowtorching wrecked the head, and maybe the block. With the usual "Chevy" firing order, when #3 has spark and fires the air/fuel mix, #5 is on the intake stroke. The jet of flame from #3, blows across the failed gasket, igniting the air/fuel present in #5, which still has the intake valve open...so not only does #5 explode, but it lights-off the intake manifold through the open intake valve.

Perform a cranking compression test of all eight, look for two low cylinders next to each other.

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I don’t know if my distrbtr is 180° or not or what exactly my problem(s) are.

If the distributor was 180 off, it WOULD NOT run.

Alrighty I cleared em and now I have 11 codes instead of 7…. Could it be a bad ECM I wonder?

Start with the other items I mentioned.

50-series codes CAN indicate a failed ECM.

 

[Beetlejuice]

Re-check your spark plug wire routing.

Verify base ignition timing.


Does the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds when the key is turned from "Off" to "Run"?


My truck did exactly that...when the head gasket popped between #3 and #5. IF (big IF) I had caught it right away, I wouldn't have blow-torched a gouge in the deck surface and the cylinder head between those two cylinders. But I didn't, so the blowtorching wrecked the head, and maybe the block. With the usual "Chevy" firing order, when #3 has spark and fires the air/fuel mix, #5 is on the intake stroke. The jet of flame from #3, blows across the failed gasket, igniting the air/fuel present in #5, which still has the intake valve open...so not only does #5 explode, but it lights-off the intake manifold through the open intake valve.

Perform a cranking compression test of all eight, look for two low cylinders next to each other.

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If the distributor was 180 off, it WOULD NOT run.


Start with the other items I mentioned.

50-series codes CAN indicate a failed ECM.

Thank you so much Schurkey, I just made another post thinking i wouldnt get much traction on this one considering its a jumbled mess im going to go to Autozone now to get a compression tester. Firing orders correct and I’ve been literally and I mean literally checking the timing like 10 times to verify its at 0° btdc. I’m in a desperate way. And my fuel pump is priming when i flip the key I don’t think thats the issue I checked the fuel pumps psi a few weeks back and it looked fine. The spray looks good and im sure theres no vac leaks.

Could you tell me how exactly I test my ecm if you know? I cant find anything online about it- that is if i get that far with a good outcome out of the compression test that im gonna do in about an 30 mins! Also just because my firing order is correct is there something else I could be missing like wires being too close or something along those lines?