The Arctic Fox
I'm Awesome
Yeah i don't know what it is about these trucks, but I have 4 gmt400's sitting in my driveway. 
The Stupid Electronics Questions Thread
- Thread starter Mike
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
JakeZ71
OBS Enthusiast
Stupid question, and possibly not even in the right place, but here goes. '98 Chevy K1500, silverado trim, Z71 package. It has the seperate CD player below the heater controls. Said CD player worked in July before I did the engine swap. It doesn't work now. it will take a Cd, and you can hear it spin, but it doesn't read. It just throws up an error message on the radio and spits it out. Any one have any ideas what may cause this?
Thanks.
Thanks.
It's probably just dead. Sometimes you can revive them by blasting the slot with shop air to remove any dust from the laser, but most of the time if you get the "Err" message constantly they're too far gone. Seen a bunch of them fail this way.
I am working on repairing my airbag system, and am currently pinning out all of my wiring and plugs checking for any shorts or broken connections. So far so good, but I have come across a symbol that I cannot figure out the meaning of in the diagram.
What is the P with the dashed boxes around it mean? So far every other ground connection on the diagram does not have this "P" (just a standard black line with no breaks going to the lined triangle), and properly check out. This "P" ground section is the only one without any continuity too ground. I don't actually think its a broken connection anywhere, as every other gauge and plug in the dash that would share that same ground checks out. Does it mean "powered" or something that only supplies ground when truck is in run? Because it is the airbag system I have the battery disconnected.
Here is the diagram in question:
Thanks!
What is the P with the dashed boxes around it mean? So far every other ground connection on the diagram does not have this "P" (just a standard black line with no breaks going to the lined triangle), and properly check out. This "P" ground section is the only one without any continuity too ground. I don't actually think its a broken connection anywhere, as every other gauge and plug in the dash that would share that same ground checks out. Does it mean "powered" or something that only supplies ground when truck is in run? Because it is the airbag system I have the battery disconnected.
Here is the diagram in question:
You must be registered for see images attach
Thanks!
tinfoil_hat
I'm Awesome
I'm sure this has been answered but I'm not finding it.
Climate Control Issue
I had that problem a little while ago where my heater fan will only run on "high". All the lower settings are dead. The fan had been noisy for a long time so I changed it but that wasn't the problem. I tried the resistor but that wasn't it either. Next steps would be the relay then maybe the fan speed switch. I went ahead and pulled the control head to look for melted wires but everything looked great. Put it all back together and now maybe two weeks later I smell burning wires with the fan on high. I'm gonna start pulling the dash apart again to find the issue. I have read that the wires behind the control unit sometimes melt and that there is a beefier wiring harness available. Does anyone know the part number for that?
What else should I be doing/looking for while I'm digging around in there?
Climate Control Issue
I had that problem a little while ago where my heater fan will only run on "high". All the lower settings are dead. The fan had been noisy for a long time so I changed it but that wasn't the problem. I tried the resistor but that wasn't it either. Next steps would be the relay then maybe the fan speed switch. I went ahead and pulled the control head to look for melted wires but everything looked great. Put it all back together and now maybe two weeks later I smell burning wires with the fan on high. I'm gonna start pulling the dash apart again to find the issue. I have read that the wires behind the control unit sometimes melt and that there is a beefier wiring harness available. Does anyone know the part number for that?
What else should I be doing/looking for while I'm digging around in there?
might be a bit of a stupid answer, but i couldn't find an answer anywhere.
Does anyone know what length of 1/0 I'd need to run for an amp in an ext cab pickup? Wanting to make sure before I make a purchase and end up short.
Does anyone know what length of 1/0 I'd need to run for an amp in an ext cab pickup? Wanting to make sure before I make a purchase and end up short.
amp will be placed under the rear seat. haven't decided on driver/passenger side yet, though.
Jeff7
OBS Enthusiast
So after seeing the thread about the hummingbird fuel gauge fix I decided to try and fix my fuel gauge. It reads 1/4 over full when it's first filled, and sometimes (not when full) it will sporadically jump around anywhere from 1/4 to past full, otherwise it stays on full. I think it may be the sending unit but I would like to confirm that. From what I've been able to find (I have a 98 K1500 350) the sending unit is supposed to read 0-90 Ohms and it is the thinner ground wire and a purple wire (I'm guessing the purple one is the second from the left since that's beside the thinner ground wire), a shorted wire would always read empty and a broken wire/circuit being infinite Ohms would read over full.
So this is my stupid question, can you test the sending unit without dropping the tank? I tried sticking my multi-meter needles into where the wires meet the plug but didn't have any luck. Is there somewhere under the hood I can test (had a hard time following the wires), or should I try unplugging it maybe? If it is the sending unit I won't bother replacing it until my pump goes again so I'm not going to drop the tank out, but I'd like to confirm that so I'm not driving around with an unreliable fuel gauge that could have been easily fix due to some other reason.
Thanks.
So this is my stupid question, can you test the sending unit without dropping the tank? I tried sticking my multi-meter needles into where the wires meet the plug but didn't have any luck. Is there somewhere under the hood I can test (had a hard time following the wires), or should I try unplugging it maybe? If it is the sending unit I won't bother replacing it until my pump goes again so I'm not going to drop the tank out, but I'd like to confirm that so I'm not driving around with an unreliable fuel gauge that could have been easily fix due to some other reason.
Thanks.
You must be registered for see images attach
RawbDidIt
I'm Awesome
You could always wait until you have the boys over for poker night and move the bed instead of dropping the tank. It's faster, if you have more muscle than you do time. Otherwise you may have to go to the old washer on a string trick to get your fuel level...
Similar threads
Members online
- Jnance94
- Derick
- JSKidd
- Erik the Awful
- The_Full_Monte
- l1lartur0
- snowboardfan03
- Eeyore79
- man-a-fre
- torhne
- Nick88
- vince72
- kdhs10
- bpbrown
- Road Trip
- Tommy1234
- OutlawDrifter
- Tan1998K2500
- Caman96
- Bachert24
- truedual93
- KoverC
- JFanchier
- Black98Burb1500
- Supercharged111
- Tombbo
- vancecamp
- scott2093
- BVRPLZR
- s98gmc
- bentlyw
- Turboflatbed
- Striker1423
- carid
- crusty
- Remodelmaster
- Greenwood90
- Boosted93
- Teriria
- Freak2180
- edwardhulse
- Alteca
- dirtbag107
- Lowrado09
- Christmastree Burb