First real test drive today, after V8 swap.

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DeCaff2007

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My bad, Pontiac.

You keep mentioning junk tools etc. and are in denial on needing a scan tool. Maybe it's the hand-me-down computer that's junk and needs scanned or you're still chasing melted wires? People can only tell you, they can't understand it for you.

I have the software and the cable. It would have been run just the other day if that TBI hadn't split open.

As must as I still hold the opinion that we shouldn't need computers to troubleshoot our vehicles.... I was and still am curious to see what the laptop shows.
 

DeCaff2007

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I have another update. It's somewhat informative but no progress whatsoever.

The TBI is fixed. I found the last remaining TBI on Earth and scobbed the fuel pod from it. I also had to find a rebuild kit, just for the gaskets. It was a 2 hour drive round trip to get that rebuild kit. But, if I wanted it TODAY, it was the only option. I put it all together and tested for leaks. It fires up once again.

Then I brought my laptop and that gold-plated cable out and played around with it. My Gawd, has it been so long? I'm like a stranger to computers anymore. IT used to be my bread and butter. It paid well and I was great at it. Not so much anymore :(.

I loaded up Tunerpro. I might as well be staring at a brick wall. I confesss, I have zero clue what I'm doing.

Ok, since that's a bust but the weather was cooperating nicely today, I dug into the steering issue.

I'm 0 for 2 today. I disconnected the steering center link from the pitman arm, put the wheels straight, and put the steering wheel at dead center. Then I looked underneath to see how far off things are. Oh boy.

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I'll confess again. Zero idea where to go from here. The tie rods are both adjusted to their extremes. Can't go any further in on the right side. The left has maybe 1/32nd of an inch to go.

I'm not sure if the pitman arm is where it should be with the steering wheel at dead center. I don't suppose anyone could go out and check?

Ugh.... to much stress lately.


EDIT: Just to verify, since I had the fuel injectors on the bench, I looked up the part number.

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They are indeed for the 5.7L and not the 5.0, so that's one less variable/problem to worry about.
 

Orpedcrow

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I can’t go look and measure but I’ve got a couple pictures that might be helpful.

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Pitman and idler arm should be pretty parallel with each other and the frame when the wheels are straight.
 

Orpedcrow

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And just a tip from the experienced, if you’re working on the steering, pull the vehicle in straight, then take the seat belt or a bungee cord and strap the steering wheel dead nuts where it’s at. One less variable.
 

east302

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It’s not the best, but here’s one centered. The flat spot on the input shaft is facing up. Since it’s keyed, it would be obvious if the pitman arm is on wrong.

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DeCaff2007

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Judging by the pics and info, my pitman arm is installed correctly. I thought maybe the center link was backwards, but it looks identical on both sides. The problem has to be in the tie rod ends.

I'm wondering if it's possible that I ordered the wrong ones... or the wrong came in (correct parts but manufactured wrong).... or I have them installed backwards.

EDIT: I just squashed that idea. I looked up the part number for the inner and outer tie rod ends. Yeah, they are different part numbers, but it's the same for Left/right, inner/outer - respectively, and they are all the exact same length. 7.44 inches.

GREAT.
 

Schurkey

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This all STARTS with the steering gear being centered. Not the steering wheel, not really the road wheels although that's going to come into play soon enough.

Yes, the flat should be "up" as in this photo. If the steering gear is centered and the flat is up...then the steering wheel is straight 'n' level. If the steering wheel isn't, either it's been installed wrong on the splines, or the steering column shaft(s) are twisted.
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What hasn't been illustrated is that with the input shaft flat up, and the gear centered, the output shaft should align vertically as shown on #13:
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And if the Pitman shaft isn't twisted, that should put the Pitman arm straight back, not angled. Your photo shows some amount of angle. (Or is it just an optical illusion the way the photo is taken?)
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From there, if the tie rod ends won't get the road wheels straight, I'd be looking for bent or worn parts--center link, control arm(s), frame, etc.
 

DeCaff2007

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Alright, I'll check for the info in #13 and report back. So, if I remove the steering intermediate shaft (the connection between the column and the steering gear), are you saying I should be able to see that flat spot, facing up?

The block tooth on the Pitman shaft has me a little confused as I'm not sure I'll be able to see that with the steering gear installed on the vehicle, and the Pitman arm installed on the steering gear.

Also, @Schurkey I don't know if that's an optical illusion or not. I'll get a better picture here soon.
 

jd33173

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Unbelievably, the scrap pile passed inspection! :jawdrop:. The guy that did the inspection said it looks in damn good shape for it's age.

Now the bad news. They did the wheel alignment, and it drives MUCH straighter, but it can't turn left. To get through a left hand turn, I have to go halfway through the turn, back up (while turning right), and go through the turn again.

For a right hand turn, however, I can make a hair pin turn. The truck did not have this problem before I tore into the steering. I'm guessing that the Pitman arm isn't installed on center.

Now more kinda bad news. When I went to go pick it up from the inspection station, is started RIGHT up. It ran a little sluggish and still had no real power. Then, I had to go uphill and there was one of Brandons Kids (an illegal immigrant driving less than half the speed limit) in front of me, so I FLOORED it. The engine fell flat on it's face and stalled out. I got it restarted, but barely made it up the hill. It nearly stalled out twice more on the way home and has near zero power. Then, I got a backfire at WOT.

This, my GMT400 listeners, is the advantage of building an engine yourself as opposed to buying one out of the box. I now have a couple working theories as to why this is happening, instead of sitting there staring at the engine like a deer in headlights, wondering what the problem could be.

1. One of the cylinders isn't getting spark for whatever reason (because to backfire like that, it HAS to have fuel).

2. Something messed up in the valve train again (better EFFING not have!)

3. The reviews on Summit Racing, for the new distributor I bought, said REPLACE the ignition control module that the distributor comes with, with an AC Delco or Screaming Demon ICM. The one it comes with just causes problems.

4. The oil pressure sending unit may be causing problems other than erratic oil pressure readings.

The only part that sucks about this now is that the Wife's Buick is the current resident in the garage. It's not leaving there until she drives it out under it's own power. That means any work I do on the RCSB will be outside. That's not such a bad thing sometimes. More room, occasional sunshine, less chance of thrown tools hitting something, etc...

But it now has a sticker! Two, actually! So, the most difficult part is over.

It's probably something simple causing the engine to not run right. Stay tuned.
Thrown tools..verr funny (and true) but Brandon's kids? That sir, is next level, I about busted a gut.. :)
 

Schurkey

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Guessing you can see the flat on the input shaft, and the block tooth on the output by careful inspection without removing anything. Perhaps a flashlight and inspection mirror...
 
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