Master cylinder to proportional valve lines

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tmiller3388

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I have a 1990 k1500 and I’m looking to replace my Master Cylinder and will have to replace the lines that run from master cylinder to the proportional valve due to the fittings/tubes being so corroded that the tubes turn with fittings. Penetrating oil does not seem to help. Does anyone have a suggestion on what kit or where to order these brake lines from?
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Schurkey

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Perhaps a moderator will move this thread from "Engines" to Axles + Brakes.

"I" would heat the flare nuts. Even a propane torch should work in this case. They don't need to glow orange.

I bet you can free them with some heat. Once free, slide 'em back on the tubes, polish the rust, add a touch of antiseize to the BACK SIDE of the flare and tubing. NO anti-seize on the front of the flare where it meets the master cylinder.
 

tmiller3388

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Perhaps a moderator will move this thread from "Engines" to Axles + Brakes.

"I" would heat the flare nuts. Even a propane torch should work in this case. They don't need to glow orange.

I bet you can free them with some heat. Once free, slide 'em back on the tubes, polish the rust, add a touch of antiseize to the BACK SIDE of the flare and tubing. NO anti-seize on the front of the flare where it meets the master cylinder.
Perhaps a moderator will move this thread from "Engines" to Axles + Brakes.

"I" would heat the flare nuts. Even a propane torch should work in this case. They don't need to glow orange.

I bet you can free them with some heat. Once free, slide 'em back on the tubes, polish the rust, add a touch of antiseize to the BACK SIDE of the flare and tubing. NO anti-seize on the front of the flare where it meets the master cylinder.
Thank you. I’m going to try this.
 

tmiller3388

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Perhaps a moderator will move this thread from "Engines" to Axles + Brakes.

"I" would heat the flare nuts. Even a propane torch should work in this case. They don't need to glow orange.

I bet you can free them with some heat. Once free, slide 'em back on the tubes, polish the rust, add a touch of antiseize to the BACK SIDE of the flare and tubing. NO anti-seize on the front of the flare where it meets the master cylinder.
I just tried putting heat on it will a propane torch. Twice with about 2-3 minutes of heat and lines are still twisting with fittings.
 

Schurkey

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Those are simple, easy-to-bend tubes.

Warm up the nuts NOT the tubes. Brutalize 'em, see if they pop free. If not, you'll wreck the tube(s) and have to make new ones.

Or get replacements that are hopefully in better condition from the Treasure Yard.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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I just tried putting heat on it will a propane torch. Twice with about 2-3 minutes of heat and lines are still twisting with fittings.

I soak them with penetrating oil for a few days if I know I am going to have remove them. Another trick is to lightly clamp onto the line with vise grips. Also try turning them both directions to wiggle them loose.
 
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