1995 K2500 Suburban 6.5TD Control Arm Bushings-Which To Use? Dead Stock...

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UGLYTRUK

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This rig is from Phoenix, just crossed 300,000 miles, and the upper and lower bushings have deteriorated from oil leaks, age miles etc. I went to RockAuto, and they've got Moog, which has a great name but sketchy quality, ACDelco which is prolly made in Mexico. They have 1 lower McQuay Norris, $2 +$7sh, prolly made in USA, but just a single piece.

It also needs a pitman arm, MOOG shows a problem solver, again, MOOG is supposed to be the be all-end all...
What are you guys recommending?
 

UGLYTRUK

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AC Delco is your Mexico connection, at best... Unless old stock
 
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I replaced all the frontend and suspension parts on a 1990 Chevy Silverado Sportside 2-wheel drive last year. I used all Moog parts, they were more expensive, everything fit real well. The parts I replaced were original to the truck. The upper ball joints had brads holding them to the upper control arm, I drilled them out, the control arm bushing were spot welded to the control arms, I cut those with a cold chisel. Just my 2 cents worth.
 

UGLYTRUK

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Update February 9th, I just realized I missed the rolling bones garage night near Saratoga Springs. 2 hours away, and last year was in California, and this year I blew it. But back to the truck I'm working on, I bought mevotech control arm bushings, they're made in China junk, so I set them aside. And then ordered ACDelco which are made in Mexico and I installed those. I also ordered Moog which is made in India. There was some TRW was on eBay, they were made in China.


Everything is all back together, and loosely bolted on, and I'm wondering how much to charge for this job. I haven't been keeping track of my hours, as I wander around my shop doing 10 different things at any one day.

Here's what I've done:

new upper and lower control arm bushings

new lower ball joint which I had to drill and punch out the rivets

new outer tie rod.

new rotor using the old Timken bearing


new caliper using the old pads

all new dash lamps

used headlite assy

I had to cut the lower rear control arm bushing bolt to remove it as it hits the axle. Now I can put it in the other way and the nut will be against the axle stub, my better design lol.

Tomorrow I'm going to move on to the passenger side and I think that side needs both ball joints and bushings and rotor. So pretty much the same scenario.

A friend of mine looked up some flat rate thing online, and it says the lower ball joints are not serviceable, so much for that.

I'm a totally hole-in-the-wall garage with no lift, so I struggle to do things, but I still do top quality work, or so I think I do, and she'd been to three shops. They sent her away with the upper control arm bolts completely loose, 1 worn thru bushing, very badly worn ball joint etc etc. so she's just getting stiffed or the run-around. They just don't want to work on old stuff anymore I suppose.

I don't have a shop rate as I strictly work on my own vehicles or the odd friend who returns the hours I put in by working for me. I double and triple-check everything that I do, I clean up all bolt threads, lubricate everything and I don't miss a detail. As a matter of fact I also changed her oil and use top quality synthetic and a Mobil 1 filter, the last shop she was at told her synthetic is a waste of money and put on a $2 filter. This rig has over 300,000 miles, and judging by the way I've taking care of it in the last 10 years, it should go another 300,000.
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454cid

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Lower ball joints are most certainly serviceable. Complete arms aren't even available. There are two types.... one for forged arms, and one for stamped arms.

No idea on the labor cost.
 
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