First real test drive today, after V8 swap.

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Road Trip

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With that I have a question: What's wrong with simply using jumper cables from a running vehicle to power the Heap while performing the compression test?

Good question! About the only reservation I have with jumping in general is IF
both vehicles end up running while interconnected. Then in the worst-case scenario
you get into a 'dueling alternator' situation. Although it shouldn't be possible for
one alternator to toast the opposing alternator's regulator, I've had to t-shoot &
repair a couple of vehicles for others that had no previous history of alternator issues
prior to providing a Good Samaritan jump start. Quite possibly the failed alternators
were already on the cusp of failure, enjoyed a non-stressful work environment, and
the jump session was the straw that broke the regulator's back? :0)

Coincidence? Quite possibly.
Rare? Extremely.
Ever see a running vehicle jump start another, both vehicles end up running while interconnected...and
both vehicles end up working just fine, long-term, after the fact? Absolutely. In fact,
the vast majority of the time. (!)

...but I digress. I never hesitate to jump start a fellow traveler in need. But I never have my
vehicle running while doing so. Bigger gauge jumper cables and engine off trumps too small cables
and zinging your motor for an extra volt or so. Then again maybe I'm just worried about
crossing the streams? {Don't cross the streams}

****

Given the above, I actually see no problem with using another running car to power The Heap
while performing a compression test -- for it isn't going to start up, neatly avoiding the
over-cautious hypothetical above. :)

OH! Another question: Is it going to make any difference if I squirt some oil down each cylinder for the compression test? I've read about doing that. Never done it. Don't see the point. So, I'm asking.

All of us old dudes were taught that way back in the day. I've tried it both ways,
and adding the oil just seemed to muddy up the results.

So the short answer to your question is Yes, it will make a difference, and No I
would not recommend it. Here's the deal -- for argument's sake, using nice round
numbers let's say that you are working with 60cc combustion chambers. Now you
squirt roughly a tablespoon of oil in there and retest. Oil isn't compressible, so now
we need to figure out how much space we just took up?

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60cc - 15cc = post-oiling compression reading goes up? What does it mean?

The better answer? Run the compression test as-found. IF there's a question of ring leakage,
following the compression test with a leakdown test will unambiguously point you in the
direction of intake leak vs exhaust leak vs a bad piston ring/cylinder wall seal.

Listen for the hiss & where it's coming from. (throttle body, exhaust pipe, or oil fill inlet.)
And as discussed elsewhere, the rings *always* leak. If all cylinders leak similar amounts
(a few percent) you are golden. If 2 adjacent cylinders leak way more than the 6 others,
think blown head gasket interconnecting the two. Bubbles in the radiator, similar thing,
just that the head gasket blew in a slightly different place.

Note: There are those who prefer performing their compression & leakdown tests
right after the engine has been warmed up to full operating temperature? But with
angle plug heads, headers, etc., whatever fractional improvement in test accuracy is
far outweighed by the sheer hurt you would experience from gathering said data. :0)

Seriously, a stone cold motor that hasn't run in ages isn't going to measure as well
as the same engine after running, even if you allow the motor to cool to a
reasonable (touchable) temp before administering the test. Why? Piston growth, plus
there will be more oil in the cylinder wall crosshatch on the recently run motor, again
allowing a better testing ring seal. It's all about controlling the test variables as much
as possible so we are all comparing apples to apples.

****

One last thing before I go. All other variables being equal, the altitude where you are
makes a difference in compression test results. Syracuse became a thing because it's
on the Erie Canal, and way back then they picked the path of least resistance when
it came to digging that waterway. Google says I'm ~381' above sea level.

Your stated location is PA. If you live on top of Mount Davis, then at 3,213' your
V8 is going to read less than my V8, even if they are mechanical twins.

Listen, I still owe you a SWAG on why #1 cylinder is 170/150, and the rest don't
match, but I've got to do a bit more research before I do that. More to follow.

Keep the faith. With enough care & attention to detail, we should eventually be
able to coax the engine to run like they do when all 8 cylinders equally contribute
to the task at hand.

Cheers --
 
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Road Trip

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Super wild ass guess?
Close! Scientific Wild-Ass Guess.

Until Decaff & his truck prove these troubleshooting theories to be factual, then at best
all I can claim is all this stuff is only a SWAG. :0)

NOTE: This is an old term. I was first accused of trafficking in these back when I worked on F-16 Avionics...
 
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Schurkey

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I haven't done a "wet" compression test in decades.

One day I got to thinking about how the oil was supposed to climb up the sloped cylinder banks of a V-8, V-6, Slant 6, Slant 4, or opposed engine. I considered that with America full of upright inline 4, 6, and "Straight 8" engines before the V8 revolution, the oil stood a chance of flowing evenly around the top ring. Not so much on a slanted or lay-down cylinder bank.

Particular gratitude for determining the cc of a tablespoon. I knew that non-compressible oil had to affect the combustion chamber volume; but I didn't know how much.

You want to find out if the valves are leaking? Pump compressed air into the cylinder, listen at the tailpipe and listen at the throttle body, with the throttle opened.
 

df2x4

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If I want to break out the deeper pockets (really DON'T want to, but it's DeWalt, just saying.....). This one HAS a start feature.

I would stay away from the DeWalt. I was looking at similar models recently and the reviews on them are not great to say the least. DeWalt makes great power tools, but I don't think their battery chargers are designed/built very well.

I'm in the market for a new charger too, my 10A Schumacher "Ship & Shore Automatic" from the early 2000s has been falsely reporting AGM batteries as "bad" and refusing to charge them. As a result I'm on the hunt for something that isn't computer controlled with safety nannies. I agree that looking around for a used charger is a great choice, that's what I've been doing. Look for the old school Schumacher or Associated roll-cart style if you have the space and budget, they'll have a 200A-ish engine start option that will be more useful and can be found for $100 or so.

The closest thing to what I'm looking for that I've found new (at a reasonable price) is the Schumacher DSR139. It looks good and I may try it if I can't find a good deal on a used one. The only thing I don't like is that it doesn't have a "hold" function, you have to run it on a timer every time.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cbc-dsr139
 

Supercharged111

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Well! Look who it is! Haven't heard from Supercharged111 in awhile. How's it been?

I'm around regularly.

I like me a nice, dumb charger personally. I have an old Schumacher a friend gave me rated at 8 amps but I think it hits north of 10. And I have my dad's old (also Schumacher?) 2/40/200 amp unit. They never ask questions or tell me I'm wrong, they just do what they're told no matter how junk the battery is.
 

Road Trip

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Listen, I still owe you a SWAG on why #1 cylinder is 170/150, and the rest don't
match, but I've got to do a bit more research before I do that. More to follow.

Greetings @DeCaff2007,

Good news. After reviewing the history of your TBI 350 build, I have pretty
solid answers for the anomalous results of the compression test that you shared.

Sometimes, the more you dig, the fuzzier the big picture becomes. Usually this
happens when the recorded data leading up to the failure is sparse, lacks
the necessary precision, or the data is conflicting. (Due to uncalibrated
test equipment or adherence to procedures.)

This is when I find myself using the SWAG acronym in order to couch my
answer in such a way that you know that my answer is more of an informed
hunch based on similar experiences instead of specific, hard data..

Conversely, sometimes the more you dig the sharper the troubleshooting
big picture becomes. All the individual bits of info start to reinforce each other,
much like when you are piecing together a puzzle & the image starts to become
recognizable.

In a previous life, this was the confidence level required in order to get a
jet, previously grounded due to a serious IFE {In Flight Emergency} to pass
the formal review by the safety board, before they would release the aircraft
and authorize a FCF (Functional Check Flight) to be performed, so that ultimately
the aircraft could be returned to service.

Enough table setting, let's dig in and see what's going on with your 350.

****

First things first. Let's organize your compression test results to match
the physical layout of your engine:

You must be registered for see images attach


1) The measured pressure in 6 out of 8 cylinders are nearly identical -- this is *exactly* the desired result of a relative compression test.

The data suggests that the driver's side was tested first, and that the passenger side was
tested afterwards. (On the theory that the battery was discharging, and the test rpm was
starting to fade.)

IF the reverse is true (ie: the passenger side was tested 1st, driver's side 2nd)
the highest probability for these results is a small disagreement in the machined block
deck height from left to right. This is pretty common, and doesn't cause an issue for an
engine working at a normal, stock DD level of tune.

How to prove/disprove the above:

A) Easy: Rerun test on fully charged battery + jumper cables to second (running) vehicle,
which keeps the cranking battery voltage a constant from beginning to end.
B) Easy: Review deck height measurement recorded during assembly. (Straight edge & feeler gauge
is close enough, dial indicator if you have it.)
C) Invasive: Left and Right deck height data was not collected during engine assembly. Remove
cylinder heads and acquire data. Note: Not recommended. The (3) 125 psi readings on the driver's side are
within 5% of the (3) 120 psi readings on the passenger side.

Also, getting results this even on a engine with only ball-honed stock bores on a ~90K mile
block and (7) original stock pistons is actually quite good.

2) In absolute terms, the compression numbers seem to be a bit lower than expected?

The commonly accepted response to this question would be that when running a compression
test the relative results between all the cylinders is key, and the absolute values are to be
taken with a grain of salt, since there are uncontrolled variables introduced during the test.
(Throttles left at idle impeding intake cycle leading to lower absolute compression reading,
what altitude was the test taken, late closing intake valves on performance camshaft, etc.)

But one forum member made the comment that possibly the motor was originally a lower
compression TBI 'HD' motor? I decided to dig a little deeper. Turns out that the light duty
TBI 350 featured 9.25:1 compression & 200hp, whereas the 8600+ GVW rated trucks got the
HD
350 with 8.75:1 compression & 190hp. Here's an older post with some part numbers
& specs: (LD vs HD TBI 350s)

There was also some discussion about sodium-filled exhaust valves, which the HD motors
came with, but I needed more proof about the lower-compression HD theory. Also there was
a photo of the engine showing 4-bolt mains, which (supposedly) were reserved for the HD TBI
350s in the GMT400 production run, so it started to feel like this is what DeCaff2007 was working
with?


Looking closely at DeCaff2007's photo of his assembled short block, I then noticed a piston detail
that I was unfamiliar with:

You must be registered for see images attach



I've never seen this in the flesh, and my Google Fu was put to the test.
Finally, after almost admitting defeat, I found a single, solitary SBC devo who put up
a matching photo in a chevy-centric website, and identified these pistons with
the 45° identifying notch as having 18cc dishes in them:

You must be registered for see images attach

(Tip of the hat to "1983G20Van" over in the chevytalk.org forum for this 9-year old entry. Reading his stuff it sounded like someone I've
come to know in this forum...and then a photo confirmed my suspicions. :)

This is close enough for me. The compression results for this engine will be
a bit lower than expected due to the 1/2 point compression drop.

3) Why is the number #1 cylinder reading so much higher than the others?

This is the question that initially drove my interest in digging into DeCaff2007's
compression test results. I wasn't following this build until recently, so I was
unfamiliar with how the engine went together. Unfortunately, the engine build documentation
was scattered across at least 8 separate threads, and I was having trouble following
the flow after the fact?

But after I stopped and built a navigational cheat sheet in the form of a timeline, it became easier to
follow along. (See attached.) Sure enough, in reply #19 to the thread "Piston Ring Install Issues"
the original #1 piston was damaged after the assembly got jammed up:
(Original #1 piston no longer serviceable)

After initially focusing on a suspected incompatibility of the bore chamfer vs the original ring compressor,
eventually the root cause was troubleshot to the oil control rings -- more specifically, deep groove vs
shallow groove. (Incorrect diameter oil rings due to incorrect scraper spacing)

And eventually a single replacement piston was sourced on eBay. (Shiny new Standard bore LD piston)
And by now you've guessed the punchline. It's for the TBI 350 put into all the <8600 GVWR GMT400s,
meaning that it has a smaller dish in the piston for that 1/2 point higher compression ratio.

In addition, since it's not a .030" rebuilder piston that normally have a 1.540" compression height (between
wrist-pin and top of piston) it's quite possible that this STD bore piston has the factory-spec 1.560" compression
height, adding even more squish to the mix?

To summarize, the 'higher than the rest' compression reading in the #1 cylinder accurately confirmed
that there *is* a physical difference between the piston in this cylinder vs the other 7.

Since I hadn't been following the build at the time, I was completely unaware of this going into this
compression test analysis, so I thought that it was pretty cool that the compression test had
enough resolution to make the 'unique to this build' artifact stand out.

Recommendation: If the engine runs quietly and there's no adverse tolerance stack up
in hole #1, run it as-is.

Since the majority of the 350 TBI motors out there run with 8 of these higher compression pistons,
this should not cause any issues in normal service. The possibility exists that the #1 cylinder
in this engine will be the first one to give the knock sensor something to listen to, but that's
why the design engineers put this error-correcting spark timing feedback loop on the engine block
in the first place?

In English, the total timing for all 8 cylinders *may* or may not be set by this cylinder, but again
in normal service this will be a non-issue anyway. Keep it cool and no problemo!

4) What about the slightly higher reading in cylinder #8? What does it mean, if anything?
Is this of any consequence in the big scheme of things?


In all the data above, I have confidence in the observed data and conclusions. But on
this one I am going to have to label it as a SWAG.
In order to prove/disprove the following,
we would have to CC the combustion chambers of the aftermarket Flotek aluminum
cylinder heads...since the #8 piston looked to be one of the originals.

About the only thing I can dream up is what I am going to call the 'left hand' rule. That is,
what if this batch of Flotek castings has a single, slightly smaller combustion chamber than
the other 3, and this smaller chamber is the one closest to my left hand as I install the
head on the block?

On the driver's side, this smaller chamber would be on the #1 cylinder.

And on the passenger side, this same chamber that's closest to my left hand would end
up over the #8 cylinder. But I caution that this is pure conjecture on my part, until
such time as the cylinder heads were pulled and the chambers carefully CC'd.
Note: Not Recommended, for cylinder #8 currently measures well within reason.

****

Well, I don't expect very many people to still be reading this. But that's alright. You see,
I actually have more confidence in what a carefully done compression test can tell me about
a motor that's new to me than the average motorhead. And if you take it a step further and
proceed to perform a leak-down test on the outliers, you can really get actionable info from that.

But the vast, vast majority of the time we go for a leakdown test is because the compression is
way off in a cylinder or two, as in closer to zero than all the others. Having one cylinder
stand out because it has appreciably more squish than the other 7 was really unusual...and that's
why I decided to dig until I uncovered the root cause. As I've said elsewhere, I don't mind
a problem that I can fix...but I hate a mystery. :)

And if you consider yourself a student of engine building, if you weren't already doing so, you
can now justify making the following measurements while performing your 'trial assembly':

* Deck Height (for quench)
* Compression height (stock vs .020" less for non-blueprint rebuild slugs)
* CC'ing the combustion chambers (ideally they all match for the smoothest possible operation
and all cylinders sharing the same octane appetite. :0)

****

Summary:

* This engine is perfectly fine, compression-wise. 6 cylinders are working as brand new.
The 2 other cylinders are bringing even a little more to the party than the others -- think
of them as overachievers.

Assuming that the inside of the engine was cleaned enough after the 1st camshaft failure,
once the valvetrain gets the 'lash' (preload) dialed in for all 16 valves, this should be just
fine in front of that 5-speed manual.

To close this out, here I will paste some common-sense recommendations from an article on
this subject:


You must be registered for see images attach



"That's all I've got to say about that." - F. 'Road Trip' Gump
 

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