'94 front brake caliper rebuild

[highwaystar]

I'm rebuilding the original front brake calipers on my '94, just because they are the originals.
I'm trying to find the slide pin seals with no luck. Anyone have a lead on these? Mods, ya may move this thread to "brake" forum. Thanks!

 

[454cid]

My guess is that it's a problem of terminology. Look for a caliper hardware kit. I know that sounds odd but I've seen them listed like that before.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I'm rebuilding the original front brake calipers on my '94, just because they are the originals.
I'm trying to find the slide pin seals with no luck. Anyone have a lead on these? Mods, ya may move this thread to "brake" forum. Thanks!

Raysbestos H5594A is what is on my list from Rockauto when I did my van.

Personally I put larger bore front calipers on both my 97 Express and my 99 Tahoe. Both used with the larger bore master cylinder.

The remanufactured calipers are cheap insurance compared to messing with rebuilding old ones that likely need to be honed and probably need new pistons anyway. Raysbestos coated, semi loaded calipers were $25 each exchange.

 

[Schurkey]

I put larger bore front calipers on both my 97 Express and my 99 Tahoe. Both used with the larger bore master cylinder.

Wisdom...depending on what calipers he's starting with.

In '94, he's got at least JB5/6 calipers, which aren't bad. I had JN3 on my '88, smallest pistons used on GMT400s.

The remanufactured calipers are cheap insurance compared to messing with rebuilding old ones that likely need to be honed and probably need new pistons anyway. Raysbestos coated, semi loaded calipers were $25 each exchange.

I've had really good luck popping calipers apart, cleaning 'em up, and putting them back together.

I rarely see rotted pistons and failed seals. Not saying it couldn't happen, just that I've been very satisfied with the random cores I've pulled apart.

The JD7 caliper I had to replace on my plow truck was about $50, bare. Had already been machined oversize for a bleeder screw "repair kit", and that bleeder screw broke. If the local parts stores around here knew what a bleeder screw repair kit was, I'd have just replaced that.

 

[someotherguy]

Wisdom...depending on what calipers he's starting with.

In '94, he's got at least JB5/6 calipers, which aren't bad. I had JN3 on my '88, smallest pistons used on GMT400s.


I've had really good luck popping calipers apart, cleaning 'em up, and putting them back together.

I rarely see rotted pistons and failed seals. Not saying it couldn't happen, just that I've been very satisfied with the random cores I've pulled apart.

The JD7 caliper I had to replace on my plow truck was about $50, bare. Had already been machined oversize for a bleeder screw "repair kit", and that bleeder screw broke. If the local parts stores around here knew what a bleeder screw repair kit was, I'd have just replaced that.

Used to rebuild calipers (and wheel cylinders) all the time, many years ago, before rebuilt calipers were a readily available thing. I don't recall ever finding one that was beyond a simple honing and clean-up.

For older stuff I think the issue is ready access to the seal kits/dust boots, since doing it yourself has pretty much become obsolete with the really cheap rebuilt units available. Kind of like how it's not a simple thing to find starter or alternator rebuild kits anymore.

I still have my brake hone in the "oddball" drawer of my main toolbox. Haven't used it in forever.

Richard

 

[Schurkey]

Given how loosely the piston fits in the caliper bore...I haven't honed caliper bores in forever. Decades.

Aluminum calipers will probably need the corrosion dug out of the seal grooves using a pick or other implement of destruction. Iron calipers are worth inspecting the seal grooves, but tend to be pretty OK as-is.

 

[AuroraGirl]

is this for a half ton?half ton chevy 1994 2wd

You must be registered for see images attach

18K2390 is the pn

The seal for the piston:
173-263 is the pn

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Then these:
18K271X

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Im less sure about this part:

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179-1001​

"bushing" there are 8 of them. is it the same as the black looking ones in the previous part?

You must be registered for see images attach

ACDelco 18K115​

 

[someotherguy]

Given how loosely the piston fits in the caliper bore...I haven't honed caliper bores in forever. Decades.

Aluminum calipers will probably need the corrosion dug out of the seal grooves using a pick or other implement of destruction. Iron calipers are worth inspecting the seal grooves, but tend to be pretty OK as-is.

Yep the honing mention is more for wheel cylinders (and the occasional old master cylinder), and the last one I needed to hone was probably in the early 90's on an early 60's pickup. Caliper bores and pistons usually clean up fine with a gray scotchbrite pad.

Richard

 

[Schurkey]

is this for a half ton?half ton chevy 1994 2wd

You must be registered for see images attach

18K2390 is the pn

The seal for the piston:
173-263 is the pn

You must be registered for see images attach

Then these:
18K271X

You must be registered for see images attach

Im less sure about this part:

You must be registered for see images attach

179-1001​

"bushing" there are 8 of them. is it the same as the black looking ones in the previous part?

You must be registered for see images attach

ACDelco 18K115​

Do you actually need all that stuff?

I re-use the pistons, both seals (I don't see the square-cut seal in your inventory), and the bolts/sleeves.

I could see replacing the rubber mounting bits--although I often don't. If the rubber is pliable, not torn or degraded, I'll generally re-use after cleaning and lube with caliper grease.

You must be registered for see images attach

IF (big IF) I pulled the caliper apart and found that the piston was rusted below the dust-seal groove, or had flaking/pitted chrome, or there was some actual problem with the seals or mounting hardware...sure, I might buy replacements for the defective parts. But at that point, getting a rebuilt caliper with a warranty is lookin' pretty good price-and-labor wise. Basically, if the caliper parts won't clean up for re-use, aside from the rubber mounting pieces, you're "probably" better-off to replace the caliper with a rebuilt.

This caliper cleaned-up and was put back into service:

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Note that I don't bother to remove the dust seal from the caliper most times; then I don't need the special tool to reinstall it. Air pressure in the brake hose port inflates the dust boot over the piston for reassembly, the same way you'd blow the piston out to begin with.

The square-cut seal has to come out, though. Really easy. Nothin' to it. Scrape the crust off the rubber, verify no debris/rust/scale in the caliper seal groove, inspect the rubber for any sign of deterioration (cracking, mostly) then lube with brake fluid and reinstall.

Be careful removing the square-cut seal. I guess some (not all) of them are directional--there's a top and bottom. Keep track of which way it came out.

Note crust on rubber, scraped bare with fingernail, on right side.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[someotherguy]

And a word of caution since I don't think it's been mentioned yet, when you use that air pressure to blow the piston out of the caliper, please use plenty of caution and common sense. A block of wood inside the caliper to catch the piston is smart; keep your fingers out of there if you want to keep your fingers.. and also do this where no brake fluid can spray out and damage any painted surface nearby.

Richard