My 99 K2500 Suburban

[Supercharged111]

That's a reasonable expense, thanks for sharing.

 

[BNielsen]

Man that's a lot of work. Could have just gone to TX and bought a clean one! For your converter, you could be a cheapass and get the B82 converter. That's the one that came on the small block trucks. It stalled around 2000 in my 1500 before the blower, probably stalls higher now. Would definitely stall north of 2000 on your application if that's something you want to pursue. If you don't mind me asking, how much was it to blast and coat the frame? I've thought about that for the 1500 if I'm ever able to find myself an 8 lug ECSB frame for cheap.

I know where there's a burnt up 97 ECSB K2500 with a solid frame.....

 

[Supercharged111]

I know where there's a burnt up 97 ECSB K2500 with a solid frame.....

2500 miles from my ass no doubt.

 

[BNielsen]

2500 miles from my ass no doubt.

Road trip!
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Looking through this thread it's absolutely insane the amount of detail you're putting into this, I can't wait to see it once it's all back together

 

[Jman95]

Road trip!
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Looking through this thread it's absolutely insane the amount of detail you're putting into this, I can't wait to see it once it's all back together

I can’t wait either lol, wish I had more time in a day.

 

[Jman95]

Slowly working at it still, working 2 jobs right now trying to get this thing back on the road haha.

Was able to get the new floor board flange welded in..

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A lot of fitting and trimming but got it on there, blew some holes in the trans tunnel with the welder. Ended up having to make a new piece on the tunnel, apparently I didn’t get any pics of that.

 

[Jman95]

Drilled my holes to recreate the factory spot welds, got it primed up and ready for the structural adhesive.

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The adhesive said it had a 90 minute work time on the tube, I can tell you this stuff set up way faster than that haha.

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This was my first time working with the adhesive, I took care not to clamp it too tight to prevent from squeezing it all out from behind the panel.

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This is an interior shot, I have the next piece made up to go onto the trans tunnel, but figured I wanted to get this piece in first. I’ve never done a flange like this, so I started at the flange and figured once I got the flange set I would be able to shape and weld/blend into the firewall. My thought was I wouldn’t be able to glue the seams if I welded to the firewall first. Hopefully I’ll have some more coming soon!

 

[Jman95]

I know it has been a while, both jobs have been busy. Still finding time to work on this though. I haven’t updated in a while but I have made progress will be posting the updates soon.

Here is the flange finished.

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Was a bit of work getting that in straight, and the piece for the trans tunnel was a bit harder lol.

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Tight area, had to weld on my back ETC.

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Finished product looks great! Just need to knock that sharp corner off to match the other side, and coat it again!

 

[Jman95]

Now that the firewall is finished, I started on the d/s fender.

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Cut away all the rot, got down to the good metal and cleaned everything up so I could use a piece of the patch.

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I was going to replace the whole tub, however I couldn’t find a tub for the suburban. The pickup tubs are shaped quite different, I found that out when I received mine. I just cut the out the piece that I needed. I measured from the bottom of the window to the top of the wheel arch on the P/S to be sure the arch was the same. Turned out I was dead on.

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after I got that welded in, I did much more cleaning out of the inside of the fender. Turned out pretty good, gonna patch those holes up on the top of that piece since I won’t be reusing the factory flares. The taper/curve on the top of the pickup tub is very aggressive compared to the suburban tub, otherwise I would have just cut the patch to cover those holes and wouldn’t have to worry about it.

 

[Jman95]

Rolled outside to complete the whole POR-15 process, it was pretty simple. I washed out the the whole fender, after I cleaned as much of the rust I could with the die grinder. Then cleaned again with the POR Degreaser, followed by the POR Metal Prep.

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The clean steel got a yellow tint after, and the rust turned to a blackish tint what little was left.

After it dried, it was ready for the POR Paint!

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I brushed it on in 2 coats. It leveled out very nicely, I was able to coat the backside of the entire fender about halfway up the window. It was clean above that anyway. Will be filling all the crevices with cavity wax when it’s finished, and follow up yearly to maintain it.

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Then it was time to shape the outer skin.