Led resistors

[Gumburcules]

I have a 1998 Chevy Silverado C1500 and I'm trying in vain to get my LED turn signals working.

If anybody knows what color of wire I hook up the LED to as well as the neutral please let me know.

Right now I have one single resistor hooked up to the brown wire and a neutral, it works great unless I turn on the lights. Once I turn on the lights they barely blink.

Basically I need to know which wire's I hook them up to the front turn signals, and which wire's do I put them on for the rear turn signals.

I have the aftermarket relay that's supposed to work for these and yet it doesn't.

So what am I doing wrong!?!?!?

 

[someotherguy]

Welcome..

More info? What kinda LED's did you get? Are they drop-in bulb replacements, or full LED housings, or...? Part #'s, brands, etc. any info would help.

If you got drop-in bulbs, be 100% sure you got SRCK-type for the middle socket on the rear, in other words, the socket that is tail/turn/brake. If you have a "regular" LED in there it will not function correctly. The upper one (tail function only) can be a regular LED, but the middle one has to be SRCK.

To be perfectly honest you don't need resistors at all. Do your LED's light up correctly with no resistors attached? The only problem you should see without resistors is they should flash too quickly. Get them lighting up correctly first then we can address the flash rate. Resistors wired in correctly will solve the hyperflash, but you can also hack your original flasher for free - very easily - and not need resistors.

Richard

 

[delta_p]

Right now I have one single resistor hooked up to the brown wire and a neutral, it works great unless I turn on the lights. Once I turn on the lights they barely blink.

The blue wire is signal to turns
The brown wire is signal to park lights
The black wire is ground for both

The way you have it wired now is most of the current when you turn on the park lights is going through the resistor and it should be getting hot as hell. The parks work because even though a lot is through the resistor, there is enough split to power the marker (or its possible your marker isn't lighting) and enough to power the park led. It doesn't blink much in blinker because of the resistor dumping the current through the marker to the resistor.

You should wire the resistor to the blue wire and the the black wire so it is in parallel with the turns. This way, the resistor will not be getting continuous current and it will provide a ground path for the marker light when the parks are on. When you turn on the blinkers, most of the current will go through the resistor but enough will power the turn led, and it won't get the resistor won't get that hot because it is on off (unless you leave the turn signal on long time).

You need this for each turn led. You'll still need the flasher to prevent hyper flash.
Try this and let us know.

 

[Gumburcules]

You need this for each turn led. You'll still need the flasher to prevent hyper flash.
Try this and let us know.[/QUOTE]


Excellent, I'll give it a go.

 

[someotherguy]

LOL...enjoy. I've successfully installed lots of LED's in several different types of vehicles including GMT400 trucks, but you can ignore my post and install resistors all over your truck.

Richard

 

[thegawd]

I want to know your hack. I have 2 trucks, both gmt 400s, both have spyder glass lenses with 4 High and Low beam mods but only my sierra has led switch back front turn signals. For these I bought harnesses and then actually soldered and double shrink wrapped them back together, properly. Anyways I did this for ease and incase I didnt like it I could quickly remove the wiring and be back to oem. I usually roll my own but dont mind buying a harness and then altering it so that it's how I want it and done once and forever.

I have every single bulb that dosent require a resistor converted to led, I have also altered my cargo light on my sierra, careful with these and check the voltages on the light terminals, these work great for incandescents but blow an led instantly because of how the leds circuit boards are printed, they short out. I removed the copper off the board to eliminate the short. I then put in the good projector lenses and severed the circuit creating it's own independent of the interior lighting circuit. I then soldered a couple standard leds on the old cargo light circuit so it functions as it should, so I have 2 sets of cargo lights, regular on with the doors and another set projector lenses that are bright as hell, i have 2 oem cargo light switch and rewired the back illumination light to come on with the switch.

Anyways back to the point.... what's the hack?

Thanks!

Al

LOL...enjoy. I've successfully installed lots of LED's in several different types of vehicles including GMT400 trucks, but you can ignore my post and install resistors all over your truck.

Richard

 

[Gumburcules]

So for the rear break and turn signal just one resistor for the turn signal on the yellow(L)/dk green(R)? Brake lights wont need a resistor, correct?

 

[delta_p]

that's right. only on the turn signals

 

[delta_p]

LOL...enjoy. I've successfully installed lots of LED's in several different types of vehicles including GMT400 trucks, but you can ignore my post and install resistors all over your truck.

Richard

I not ignoring that. He wants to put resistors in. They go across the turn signals. That's where I am coming from.

I personally run resistors on the front with switchback LED, and ANZO rear LED assemblies with the resistors removed because I put in the EP29 flasher. I liked the speed of the EP29 instead of the relay hack clipping the lead.

 

[sewlow]

Is the problem just that the sigs are hyper-flashing?
Don't mess with those resisitors. Those things are a fire-hazard.
Drop in an EP-29 flasher unit.
It's digital-based as opposed to load-based. Cadillacs were the first to use them, so it's a factory part. Direct replacement for the one in there now. Plug-n-play. Most parts stores will have them on the shelf. No more expensive than the original
Load-based will cause hyper-flash when just a single bulb in the circuit is burnt out. An indicator to let you know when that happens.
Digital won't inform you when one's burnt. Every bulb but one in a cuicut could be burnt & it'll flash at the same rate as if all were working.