96 c1500 engine swap

[Dan96c1500]

Hey all, i currently have a 96 stepside c1500 its got a 305 with some knock an rattle to it. Recently got a 1975 350 engine tore it down an sent to machine shop. Plan on building it up an throwin it in the truck.
Just wanting to know what all im goin to have to do to get it swapped an running right?
Already have a holley 650 carb an edlebrock performer rpm intake, an goin to get a lunati voodoo cam.
Also its my first engine build any thing else i should get or need to know?

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487x heads

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350 from 75 cant remember nums

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[Schurkey]

Automatic transmission? How are you going to control the shift solenoids and TCC solenoids without the computer?

In general, scrapping the fuel injection/onboard computer is a really bad idea.

Installing those ancient, obsolete cylinder heads instead of the Vortec heads is practically guaranteed to reduce the engine power.

You'd be WAY ahead in both power and fuel economy to find a salvage-yard or Craigslist complete Vortec 350, rebuild if needed, and adapt the onboard computer from "5-liter-spec" to "5.7-liter-spec".

When you get all the parts back from the machine shop, expect to have to clean EVERYTHING with HOT SOAPY WATER, because even if the machine shop says they cleaned everything...they did not get it clean enough. You'll need long-handled round brushes of various sizes to get through the oil galleries. DON'T let the machine shop install all the oil gallery and water-jacket plugs, 'cause you're just going to take them back out to clean the passages. Once you've cleaned it, protect the castings with your favorite anti-rust agent. WD-40, kerosene, ATF, engine oil, whatever you prefer. (but then most gasket surfaces will need to have that protectant cleaned off before you install the gaskets.)

You're gonna need the flexplate or flywheel that matches the 2-piece-rear-main-seal crankshaft, 'cause the bolt circle is larger on the older crank. The diameter of the flywheel/flexplate has to match your starter motor, too. (153 vs. 168 tooth.) Make sure the oil pan from that engine fits your chassis.

I don't know how you're going to get proper fuel pressure for the carb. The in-tank pump will push far too much pressure, but you also won't want to "suck' through a non-functioning in-tank pump using an engine-driven "old style" fuel pump. I guess a return-style regulator would work, but then you have to set up a system to control the in-tank pump using an oil pressure switch.

 

[Schurkey]

Almost forgot--you'll need a torsional damper that has the correct markings for the timing indicator welded to whatever timing cover you're going to use, AND be sure to verify that the timing groove on the damper matches TDC on the pointer, when the #1 piston is genuinely at TDC.

The old block won't accept OEM-style roller lifters. (Another reason to NOT use the ancient block.) If you use an old-style flat-tappet cam you're going to need an old-style cam gear on the timing set. The OEM roller cams use a thrust plate and a smaller bolt circle on the cam and cam gear.

 

[Dan96c1500]

Thanks for info
Auto trans thinkin bout th350/400 or possibly 700r not sure yet still on drawing board. Im not lookin for no high performance build or anything, will be my daily driver not too concerned on mpg.
Def gunna keep block n old heads ik they're not the best but im on low budget just tryn to get it back on road.

 

[texas tough]

looks a like 2 bolt main cap mota..

 

[Schurkey]

Another thing: You can't use the Vortec water pump and front accessory drive unless you plug the small hole for the water pump bypass on the front of the block.

A sheet-metal soft plug would work. "I" would thread the hole NPT, and then screw in a pipe-thread plug; or perhaps a straight-thread set screw of approx. 3/8 diameter.

The Vortec water pump won't cover that hole, you'll have a coolant leak unless it's plugged.

I don't know about belt alignment with the older engine and the Vortec accessory drive. The Vortec engine would have a crank sensor reluctor behind the damper hub, and you won't do that with the "older" engine...I guess...which could throw off the belt alignment. I've never played with this so I don't know what works and what doesn't--just be aware to look for issues and fix as needed.

 

[Mark Gilbert]

On the fuel side of things I think you could use a fuel pump from a 95 or older truck, it should match up and will only be like 13psi. Of course you will still need a switch to turn it on as the PCM controls the fuel pump on that year. The older style uses the oil pressure switch to maintain the pump and the PCM only provides the prime.

Personally I would put another Vortec motor in and scrap the idea of putting the older small block in, but if you are in for the troubleshooting... It's not impossible and you won't be the first to do it though. I am sure there is a build up someone has done and it will probably answer the questions you haven't thought to ask yet.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I think you could use a fuel pump from a 95 or older truck, it should match up and will only be like 13psi

You'll still need a pressure regulator for even an 88 - 95 fuel pump since it would be dead heading against the float in the carb and will build a lot more than 13PSI.

 

[Mark Gilbert]

I thought I had read about people doing it without issues, but I agree the regulator is highly recommended...

 

[Schurkey]

The older style uses the oil pressure switch to maintain the pump and the PCM only provides the prime.

No. The PCM does provide prime, but any time the PCM is getting a signal that the engine is running via the pickup coil/ignition module, it engages the fuel pump relay.

The oil pressure switch bypasses the fuel pump relay; if everything is working properly, "both" the fuel pump relay and the oil pressure switch power the pump. If the PCM, wire harness, or fuel pump relay fails, oil pressure switch powers the pump whenever the engine has oil pressure and the ignition is "on".