Wanted: Daily driver upgrades/mods suggestions

[Schurkey]

front brakes upgraded to 92 and later style rotor and hub assy.

Along with the '92-up calipers? How about the matching, larger master cylinder, and larger, double-diaphragm booster?

JN/JB5 or JB6 booster on left. Crappy JN3 pancake booster on right.

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When it comes right down to it, upgrading the rear brakes from the 254mm (10") leading-trailing shoe drums to the ENORMOUSY better 11.x Duo-Servo drums makes more improvement than upgrading the front brakes, although both ends do need help. Upgrading the rear brakes is harder/more expensive on a C1500 than a K1500 due to the 5-lug wheels.

Brakes still suck but it stops well just a little more travel in pedal than a new truck.

Did you bleed the RWAL? An '88 should have a bleeder screw right on the unit--no scan tool needed.

Rear brakes being out-of-adjustment is epidemic with the 254mm leading/trailing shoe drums. Nobody uses the park brake.

Cab mounts are on order as well.

From who? I need them on my two trucks. I've heard from multiple sources that the Polyurethane replacements are too stiff.

'Course, I hear that about Poly control arm bushings, too, and I've installed lots of them with nothing but wonderful results.

 

[Grandpa_truck]

Along with the '92-up calipers? How about the matching, larger master cylinder, and larger, double-diaphragm booster?

JN/JB5 or JB6 booster on left. Crappy JN3 pancake booster on right.

You must be registered for see images attach

When it comes right down to it, upgrading the rear brakes from the 254mm (10") leading-trailing shoe drums to the ENORMOUSY better 11.x Duo-Servo drums makes more improvement than upgrading the front brakes, although both ends do need help. Upgrading the rear brakes is harder/more expensive on a C1500 than a K1500 due to the 5-lug wheels.


Did you bleed the RWAL? An '88 should have a bleeder screw right on the unit--no scan tool needed.

Rear brakes being out-of-adjustment is epidemic with the 254mm leading/trailing shoe drums. Nobody uses the park brake.


From who? I need them on my two trucks. I've heard from multiple sources that the Polyurethane replacements are too stiff.

'Course, I hear that about Poly control arm bushings, too, and I've installed lots of them with nothing but wonderful results.

Yes new 92+ calipers as well. The lift kit requires it so I went ahead and did everything matching. I haven’t bled the RWAL but I’ll certainly look into it as well. I suspect rear drums need some adjusting too. You sure do know these trucks pretty good!
The cab bushing are in my cart to order. They are energy suspension brand and I’ve also read they are very stiff, so I hadn’t pulled the trigger on those just yet. One of our farm maintenance crew asked me for some dimensions and said he may have a better solution that would improve ride quality. I’ll keep ya posted! Thanks again for sharing your wealth of knowledge

 

[Erik the Awful]

If you need to pull the interior apart for any reason, take the time to put sound deadening under the carpet, in the doors, on the back wall, above the headliner, etc.

Cheap, thick stuff:

SoffSeal SS-INSUL1 Soffseal Sound Deadeners | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Soffseal Sound Deadeners with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Thin stuff for above the headliner:

Thermo-Tec 14610 Thermo-Tec Acoustical and Heat Control Mats | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Thermo-Tec Acoustical and Heat Control Mats with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Grandpa_truck]

If you need to pull the interior apart for any reason, take the time to put sound deadening under the carpet, in the doors, on the back wall, above the headliner, etc.

Cheap, thick stuff:

SoffSeal SS-INSUL1 Soffseal Sound Deadeners | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Soffseal Sound Deadeners with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Thin stuff for above the headliner:

Thermo-Tec 14610 Thermo-Tec Acoustical and Heat Control Mats | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Thermo-Tec Acoustical and Heat Control Mats with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Heat Barrier and Sound Deadening Mats at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

The interior is like showroom condition so I don’t want to start pulling it apart just yet. But YES it definitely needs some sound deadener, when the time comes. It certainly ain’t quiet

 

[Rico387]

My truck will get me back and forth to our farm where I’ll swap out for the tractor or service truck and also run around town for errands.
So it’ll be a daily driver. Question is what would you do to make it a reliable / efficient daily. I’ve already done the basics, thermostat, plugs, brakes, AC and a heat working(R12 system charged with EnviroSafe blows iceberg cold) new W/S wiper motor. Eventually I’d like to replace the exhaust, truck sounds good now but about the only thing on the truck with major rust is the exhaust. So let’s hear it. I’m not looking to spend a mint on it but I don’t mind throwing a little money at it to make me more comfortable and confident
1988 C1500 350TBI

It won't make it go faster, but I replaced all the interior light bulbs with LEDs. Much brighter and whiter light. Another upgrade is the cab mounted bed- there are aftermarket replacements that use a portion as a high mounted brake light.

 

[Grandpa_truck]

It won't make it go faster, but I replaced all the interior light bulbs with LEDs. Much brighter and whiter light. Another upgrade is the cab mounted bed- there are aftermarket replacements that use a portion as a high mounted brake light.

Yup! Did the led bulbs in some and under dash lights. Much brighter for when I’m fumbling around early mornings and evenings