You have a nearly-apathetic regard for appropriate "industry standard" procedures, and we've already discussed how you're not good with noticing details. It's one short-cut after another in both your workmanship, and your research. I get it--you don't have an on-site mentor, and you're at a disadvantage due to lack of tools. It's hard to grasp how important "little stuff" is, especially if it's working "now".
WHEN it fails, the internal conductors may be corroded inches--or feet--inside the insulation. The question is "how long before it gets bad enough to interfere with the operation of the TPS".
The purple "S" terminal wire on my '97 was internally corroded from the starter solenoid to behind the bellhousing--inaccessible. I had to replace 3+ feet of wire to get rid of all the green/black conductor; because I had to splice into the harnes above the engine for accessibility. Even the "good" end in this photo is corroded too badly to fix. Had to cut the wire farther back to get to "clean" copper.
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Crimped, soldered, eventually covered in heat-shrink tubing that has hot-melt adhesive inside, so when the tubing is hot enough to shrink, the hot-melt glue absolutely seals-out moisture, humidity, dirt...everything. Did I take a short-cut? YES. I didn't drive another vehicle to the store to buy purple wire, when I had correct-gauge red wire in my shop supply cabinet already.
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The wheel speed sensor wires on my '92 Lumina had torn insulation near the hub, that allowed water/road-splash to corrode it all the way back to the inner fender; I had just barely enough copper to solder to; and although it worked, even that copper was so tarnished that I had problems getting the solder to stick no matter what I used for flux. Took forever to repair that section.
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