Shoot me a PM on the MatSu forum. Im the guy with the white SAS burb. Theres way way to much stuff going on in this thread and i read it all, but it still makes my head hurt.
When you get back, you can look at my Burb if you have any questions.
And ALL my parts came from DIY4x or WFO. I cant believe nobodys mentioned Kert at DIY4x yet.
EDIT: Screw it. Prepare for a novel.
A lot of the SAS kit manufactures have lift built into their kit. Lets take Sky as an example. They have 3-4" of lift built into their brackets. With 52's that equals about 12" of lift.
A ford 44 would work great, if you could find one up here. The reason the 77.5-79 60's are so desirable isnt only because their high pinion, its because prior to 77.5 they had drums and post 79 they had a 36' spring pad width.
Its a bunch cheaper to buy the tubing inserts and steel separate. Shipping on a 12' chunk of sch80 is going to be a killer.
Wfo sells the pitman arm you need and its reamed for 1 ton TRE's. Aside from a few guys up here with full hydro, you will be the only one that runs Heims, so i would try and carry a few spares since we go out on long trips and you cant buy any at Napa.
A stock set of 52's are flexy, but most of that is droop. You never want to reverse arch a a spring so that only allows for about 4" of uptravel, but, in my burban, i have 14" of droop. Shocks, bumpstops, and possibly limiting straps will be very important on your rig. I will be using Timbren as my bumpstops.
I am running a Chevy Dana 60 and a PSD 241 with VSS that i converted to 32 spline input. The only issue i had was the front output hit the crossmember. Once again, called up Kert at DIY4x and got a clocking ring. Problem solved.
Theres a BUNCH more chevy parts up here then fords. YellowK20 has everything you would need parts wise to go chevy 60. The shaft angle isnt bad at all.
Its a tie rod. Go to a parts store and buy "center link" parts. At least your drawing in post 61 is correct.
I dont plan on running a panhard either. Good bushings, greasable spring eye bolts, and every thing tight means it wont walk. Guys run 52's on their crew cabs towing and dont have any sway. I could see a need for one if you had 52's with more arch. That obviously ads leverage to the mounting points, and could potentially cause a walking issue.
For the rear, this is where i praise DIY4x. They use a shackle unlike anybody else and its literally two pieces of plate. Making shackle length adjustments doable in your garage with a hacksaw, some steel, and a drill.
You have 63, or 64", springs out back. So a shackle flip and possible 2"-3" lift springs should set you right.
Like i said, check out my build on MatSuValley. Including the cost of all brackets, this includes SAS kit, clocking ring, 3/8" thick diy4x covers, shackle flip, clocking ring, pitman arm, and crossover, i have less then 2k in parts. So, 2K in fab parts, 1000$ In parts from YellowK20, and 500$-1000$ in ods and ends and your done with it. Dana 60/14b with 4.10's, unless he has a set of 4.56's. Mine were 800$. He has a PSD241 with VSS. A super nice riding set up with minimal parts.
Any questions, Hit me up on MatSu. Im on there alot.
