Skee needs some help with an SAS...

[891Ton]

Or even better, dont use the rear traction bars. They are basically useless anyway. Unless you are pushing gobs of HP.

 

[Darkrider]

That makes me wonder if the rest of the kit will work on an ECSB then...Should have realized that it was all tied together in the center like that.

 

[TylerZ281500]

they are bought seperately anyways, the front lift would fit, the rear wouldnt as the whole reg cab to extanded cab thing. the tractoin bars come off and the front lift mounts normally without them.

ill ask procmp, im getting a ton of mized info at the moment so in theory those should work on a 2 door hoe but im gonna speak to one of the engineeers and have him read/send me a cad file and some specs.

 

[AirmanSkee]

They came on my truck when I purchased them, and I planned on ditching them when I SAS'd the truck. And when I get back home I will try to see exactly how it mounts up. I believe the brackets holding on the traction bars on the rear are also the crossmember for the front torsion and kickers. Hence why I said I didnt think it could be seperated. BUT I am not home and havent looked at that too much, and dont have any good pictures of it to verify.

 

[891Ton]

The front should fit fine. That is the only part you should be concerned with. To find out just measure your torsion bars on the Tahoe. If they are the same as the stepside, your good. The crossmember is placed according to where those babies end up after they extend from the control arm. I would eliminate the rear traction/ladder bar setup anyway. They serve absolutely no purpose pretaining to the lift of the truck. They are designed to (as in thier name) aid in traction by eliminating wheel hop and increasing traction on leaf sprung trucks. They are more for show when on a truck like this. Traction bars are needed on trucks that produce HUGE horsepower and the rear wants to hop and "walk all over" under extreme acceleration. Thats why big diesels use them iin truck pulls, and drag cars use them for racing. An off road truck has zero benifit from them and they are actually counterproductive creating an obstruction under your truck to get hung up on trail obstacles should you wheel in some serious sh*t. You could take them off the center crossmember seaparate right now and they would not change anything whatsoever with your lift, or ride quality.

 

[AirmanSkee]

Yeah the traction bars came on the truck and I haven't played in it too much to worry about them catching. Like I said with the SAS and 14ff swap I was going to ditch the trac bars and front lift, and they're up for whoever wants them.

But just curious, the 4 extra shocks on the trac bars wouldn't help with the ride quality?

 

[TylerZ281500]

yes they would

 

[jps4jeep]

An off road truck has zero benifit from them and they are actually counterproductive creating an obstruction under your truck to get hung up on trail obstacles should you wheel in some serious sh*t.

Your posts are spot on but I will disagree with this to a point, I know people that are snapping spring every trip out due to spring wrap. The traction bar, when set up properly (not an off the shelf bolt on unit) will not hamper the performance of the spring and assuming you use a flat bottom mount, will not hang low.

Perfect example, this tuck is using rancho 44044 springs (I know these are not chevy springs but are very popular for SAS) in the front, this was the third trip out on them and snapped both springs like a twig on a cold morning. Ended up swapping to a set of re-drilled rubicon express springs and added a traction bar and has yet to have an issue.

Edit for pic

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[891Ton]

Im sorry, but that is not accurate.

First off, if someone is snapping springs every trip out they have major geometry issues with the suspension set up and are beating the heck out of thier truck. You should not "snap" a spring due to spring wrap unless your springs are under a huge stress on acceleration like when guys have built motors and mash it. Second, we were speaking about rear tractions bars on trucks which are designed to stop axle wrap and wheel hop under acceleration on a rear axle. We are not talking about a Jeep YJ's short wheelbase with thier front driveshafts about 18" long which is clearly not set up right. a rear drive shaft on a reg cab truck is about four feet. four feet has a lot more give than 18". So if there is some slight wrap in the rear of a chevy pickup and I mean slight (with a stock motor), its not even going to be noticable. The jeep does not have that distance to displace some of that energy. Somethings gona go weather it be a u-joint, yoke, or spring.

Like I said, no one who has a mild lift in a leaf spring truck with a stock to mild motor, should be snapping springs due to wrap every trip out. Just no way. Ive been wheeling since the 90's. Never broke a leaf spring in my life. Nor have I ever seen anyone with a pickup built for wheeling break one either due to wrap.

 

[891Ton]

Yeah the traction bars came on the truck and I haven't played in it too much to worry about them catching. Like I said with the SAS and 14ff swap I was going to ditch the trac bars and front lift, and they're up for whoever wants them.

But just curious, the 4 extra shocks on the trac bars wouldn't help with the ride quality?

Take them off and find out. Put two in the stock mounts and see the difference. It all depends on what kind of shocks they are and how stiff they are. In all seriousness, the less shocks, and the softer they are the better your on road ride is gona be. You dont need 4 shocks unless you need the extra dampening force. Remember shocks are designed to dampen movement. Not cease it all together. sometimes you would be amazed if you take a couple off how much better your ride is.