How To Run Parking Lights as DRLs

[John Deere 4240]

Diddo, but that's what the man wants. I like being able to be unseen in the dark.

 

[John Deere 4240]

My only idea...just came up with and haven't tried it...instead of wiring the - wire of your mirror lights to the brown wire of your corner light, wire it to the black wire from the parking light socket. May or may not work.

But the brown wire that is acting as a ground really just sends the power to the running light of the parking lamps which is where I think it screws up

Never mind that won't work...

 

[sewlow]

This is how my DRL's are set up.

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Had a cop roust me about 'em once. I asked him, where did it say in the Motor Vehicle Act that DRL's had to 'project' light.
All it says is that the lights have to be illuminated.

 

[RyanMerrick]

I go back to my simple solution, unplug the drl fuse and turn on the marker lights via headlight switch, no point spending a day tryin to figure it out when you can unplug the fuse in less than 30 seconds

I've already pulled the DRL fuse, I'm just trying to see if there's a simple solution to run the parking lights whenever the truck is running (other than using the switch).

Plus I don't really want to run the taillights, only the parking lights, by turning the switch you turn on parking lights and tail lights

 

[great white]

This is how my DRL's are set up.

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Had a cop roust me about 'em once. I asked him, where did it say in the Motor Vehicle Act that DRL's had to 'project' light.
All it says is that the lights have to be illuminated.

Guess he hasn't seen many of the new audi's or volks then:

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he's gonna have fits when those hit town!

 

[RyanMerrick]

Guess he hasn't seen many of the new audi's or volks then:

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he's gonna have fits when those hit town!

Good point, haha

 

[great white]

Parking lights as DRL. Bear with me, these bulb functions and layout are from memory so you may have to adapt the theory to actual practice.

The park lights are dual filament bulbs. One for running lights, on for turn.

Cut wire for running lights at socket. Leave enough for a pigtail. Solder and extend wires to a 30A relay.

Generic relay diagram for reference:

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Bulb wire goes to 87. 12V constant goes to 30. Acc power goes to 85. 86 gets ground.

Pull DRL fuse.

Done.

Should work that way because the dash switch pulls high, not to ground. The bulb socket should already have ground.

The only thing that won't happen is when your turn signals are on the park lamp assembly will only get brighter when the turns flash. The park light portion won't turn on/off with the flashers any more.

Your side marker yellows will still work with the dash switch. The park lamps will be on anytime you have the key on or in ACC.

Advice is offered without implied warranty or liability. Use at your own risk and test your circuits before going hot the first time.

Questions?

 

[RyanMerrick]

Parking lights as DRL. Bear with me, these bulb functions and layout are from memory so you may have to adapt the theory to actual practice.

The park lights are dual filament bulbs. One for running lights, on for turn.

Cut wire for running lights at socket. Leave enough for a pigtail. Solder and extend wires to a 30A relay.

Generic relay diagram for reference:

You must be registered for see images attach

Bulb wire goes to 87. 12V constant goes to 30. Acc power goes to 85. 86 gets ground.

Pull DRL fuse.

Done.

Should work that way because the dash switch pulls high, not to ground. The bulb socket should already have ground.

The only thing that won't happen is when your turn signals are on the park lamp assembly will only get brighter when the turns flash. The park light portion won't turn on/off with the flashers any more.

Your side marker yellows will still work with the dash switch. The park lamps will be on anytime you have the key on or in ACC.

Advice is offered without implied warranty or liability. Use at your own risk and test your circuits before going hot the first time.

Questions?

Hmmmmm.....

I may try this, where would you recommend pulling the 12V and Acc. power from? The concept makes sense, but I'm confused about the physical aspect of implementing it in the vehicle

 

[great white]

Hmmmmm.....

I may try this, where would you recommend pulling the 12V and Acc. power from? The concept makes sense, but I'm confused about the physical aspect of implementing it in the vehicle

12V can come straight from the battery if you want. Use fuse as close to the battery as possible to protect against a dead short. You can also pull 12V power from the underhood fuse panel at the two 12v terminals in the back.

12V Acc you'll have to fish around for with a circuit tester.

I can't remember if there's an ACC feed under the hood that's easily accessible.

Mine is a diesel so there's less electronics under there.

A gasser may have something readily available. DO NOT tap into any circuits that have engine sensors or engine controls on them or you could end up with a truck that runs like crap.

I ran a dedicated ACC power feed from the convenience center under the dash to power the many relays I' have running circuits underhood....

If I have time I'll bang off a quick circuit diagram, but it's a pretty simple circuit that should need a diagram to build.

You can locate the components anywhere they are safe and solidly mounted. I have lots of my own circuits so I built (what I call) a "relay center":

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You don't need to be anywhere near that "****" about it though and a gasser has the PCM in the place I put the relay support/power posts.

Just bolt the relay down somewhere dry and safe.

 

[RyanMerrick]

12V can come straight from the battery if you want. Use fuse as close to the battery as possible to protect against a dead short. You can also pull 12V power from the underhood fuse panel at the two 12v terminals in the back.

12V Acc you'll have to fish around for with a circuit tester.

I can't remember if there's an ACC feed under the hood that's easily accessible.

Mine is a diesel so there's less electronics under there.

A gasser may have something readily available. DO NOT tap into any circuits that have engine sensors or engine controls on them or you could end up with a truck that runs like crap.

I ran a dedicated ACC power feed from the convenience center under the dash to power the many relays I' have running circuits underhood....

If I have time I'll bang off a quick circuit diagram, but it's a pretty simple circuit that should need a diagram to build.

You can locate the components anywhere they are safe and solidly mounted. I have lots of my own circuits so I built (what I call) a "relay center":

You must be registered for see images attach

You don't need to be anywhere near that "****" about it though and a gasser has the PCM in the place I put the relay support/power posts.

Just bolt the relay down somewhere dry and safe.

Thanks for the explanation, that's a huge help. I'm definitely more mechanically inclined than electrically inclined (but I'm working on it!)

Great pic by the way, I love when people take the extra minute or two to make a project organized and presentable and not just hack it together; good job