IMO to even spend time thinking about TBI mods ATM is a waste of energy.
Adjust the timing. (Brown wire underneath relay cover) The factory setting is zero degrees advance and you can run up to 12 pretty easy with few supporting mods. I think anywhere around 8 is NOT unreasonable bone stock. The higher octane gas you run, the more advance you can utilize.
Trash the factory ignition module. Aftermarket ACCEL (or JEGS) modules are superior in every way, for cheap.
Think Major tune up.
plugs = DELCO R45TS@ @ 0.45 gap (16$), 8MM wires (35$), cap and rotor (25?$)jegs, 50,ooo volt coil (40$) jegs, pcv valve -(3$), oil change with 5-30 (30$).
You can remove the head pipe from the passenger side exhaust manifold and delete the choke block off from the end of the manifold..(you will probably have to replace those 2 bolts (2$)
There is another block off in the fresh air inlet of the air cleaner. You COULD run a sheetmetal screw through the bottom to hold it open. (0.10$)
Turn the air cleaner lid upside down and re-install.(free)
There is also an extended inlet tube you may like....(30$?) jegs
Replace oxygen sensor (30$), radiator cap and gas cap, thermostat(15$).
Fuel filter(7$).
There is a little known filter underneath the charcoal canister. Ask the guy in the auto parts store for a charcoal canister filter and he will GEEK OUT, but he will have it for sale. It'll be his first , most likely (2$).
Lube the front end(2$). Rotate the tires, verify pressure and check spare tire pressure also.(free)
Replace vacuum lines and check for leaks. (3$)
You will now smoke the piss out of a bone stock truck or even some d-bag with a loud Flowmaster and lots of chrome. Everybody knows engine chrome is directly proportional to horsepower....at least degrease it or something man, clean engines are happy engines (1.25$).
I would not dream of ever suggesting you delete the catalyic convertor because that is a federal crime and for me to say that you COULD replace it with a straight piece of pipe, would be against the law. A simple turbo muffler is both cheap and effective. Hooker makes a great one. -jegs
If you do all of that other stuff, you have spent more money then it would cost for a new pair of exhaust headers(120$?) jegs If you find that much money to dump into the truck again, that is WITHOUT QUESTION a very wise choice. After this point the power per dollar begins to climb but there are other very cheap mods to go if you are willing to make some sacrifices. Put 1.6 roller rockers on the list. -jegs
Consider changing the differential fluid and trans filter(80$) Don't forget the breather(2$) A 25,000 GVW trans cooler is your transmission's best friend 45$).
I don't even know what year that truck is but maybe someone could find a good tip in there. Those are all extremely solid tips and the GM C-3 is my speciality and you can fix it with a paperclip. If you dig my style and have questions, feel free to ask. Love on it good, they don't build em like that anymore!
I am after three things when I fix cars / trucks
1) Reliability
2) Dependability
3) Predictability
I recommend to all of my customers they change the same things I suggest to you to establish a schedule for servicing at regular intervals. Let's keep it from breaking now, we'll need to make more power and break it later, better. You need a solid foundation to build upon rather than considering taking a dremel to you TBI unit, just sayin....
There is no need to spend any REAL money just yet, first you gotta make sure you can't break it if you're trying to. Feel confident to drive it like you stole it. We can go LOTS faster than stock for 5 hundred bucks without getting into the engine. There are LOADS of bolt ons for an OBS truck.
First thing I ever did to any truck I owned was change the u-joints. I run ONLY the solid steel, heavy-duty guys. See how I am? I KNOW i'm gonna drive the crap out of it and I do NOT want to walk home.
Find lots of that stuff @
www.jegs.com
Thanks for the info man, I guess your new around here, Welcome!
