96 Burb K1500 Under DownUnder

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1BigCarrot

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Who said height doesn't matter

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A couple hours each night after work with a little cutting fluid and some reaming

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Bigger is definately better

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Longer not so much, maybe time for some different wheel nuts

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Passenger side done.

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1BigCarrot

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It's been a long frustrating week. Mostly the little things getting on my nerves as they seem to take the longest to sort out and get right.


Off Road Design Shackle flip bracket installed with their greasable bushings

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Looks great, superior to lift blocks (only allowed to use max. 2" lift blocks here) but what a pain in the a@#e to install. I think a body lift would help but still there is **** all room to get your hands/head in there. The four bolts on passenger side lined up ok (only 3 of 4 lined up on driver's side) but both sides where the two bolts bolt through the underside of the frame rail needed to be drilled. Not a big deal really but certainly not the "fits oem bolt pattern". What I found more irritating/time consuming was having to weld a bolt across the top of the new replacement bolts to enable the nut to be tightened as I could not get it with the spanner as it was sitting against the frame rail. Just one of those little annoying things that takes time.

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32x11.5R15

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315/70R17 Cooper Discovery AT3

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Difference in height between the wheels (drum is at the old height)

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Rear of the truck is at the new height, front is at the old height

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Hopefully the postman brings me some more goodies this week so I can finish this thing off.
 
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1BigCarrot

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One bolt at a time . . .

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Bit grotty

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Some sludge to clean out

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Looks ok, just needs a basic clean and then bolt her back on

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The "red dust" is leftover garnet from when I had the frame media blasted and coated for compliance. Damn crap is everywhere. Hopefully bathing/scrubbing the head in kerosene gets rid of it all.
 

1BigCarrot

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:banana-mario: more goodies, yay.

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Hopefully collect the heads, manifolds & covers from my machinist tomorrow. I asked him to wash them in his turbo wash machine, alot easier than me trying to scrub it all on my bench with kerosene.

We found the HG to be leaking between 5 & 7 cylinder - lucky to catch it before it blew. I was contemplating not taking the heads off and trying to tap the heads in place for the screw in studs but thought better of it. Easier to remove heads when that far in and then I know where things are at. It would bug me no-end if it turned to custard later. Better to be safe than sitting on the side of the road somewhere waiting for a tow truck. 4/5 hours of machine work is far cheaper than time lost waiting for a tow truck and then having to redo everything. Especially as I am off on holiday this time next month towing the boat to the beach :hat:
 

1BigCarrot

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I have to drive four hours to the mountain if I want to see snow. We are lucky if the temp in winter drops enough to get a frost. Plebs here have trouble driving in the rain, it would be damn entertaining watching them try to drive in snow :Big Laugh:


a 21 year old cam, even smelt just as bad

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Didn't need to disconnect the aircon, moved it enough to get the cam out. Really didn't want the hassle of getting that re-gassed.

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Old vs. new, visible difference the lobes are slightly wider

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Gently does it

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Howards state their double roller gear set fits the L31, just need to clearance the block so the chain does not clash

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And no it does not. None of the double rollers clear the reluctor ring. Thanks to the manufacturer for giving me the incorrect information and wasting my time :Nonono: Bosturds :flipthebird:

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If you have the crank sensor in the bottom of the timing cover, there are only a couple of options for a roller chain and they are both single. Sure the doubles fit under the cover if you clearance the block but then you can't use the reluctor ring which you need if you want your ignition to work as intended.

Chev Performance version & the Cloyes Street version
 
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1BigCarrot

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I know you can interchange the 58x and 24x reluctor rings but you need the sensors to match and the ability for the ignition to read them. Either electronic adapters or a stand-alone control module.

My time is better spent elsewhere at the moment and I want to keep things simple.

I'm ok with waiting 3 or 4 days for summit to express air freight the right part. Shipping cost me as much as the part but oh well, local suppliers here weren't interested in helping.

I really only chose the howard part because it gave me the ability to adv or retard the cam in 2 degree increments. Other gear sets don't give you that choice.

The chev performance single roller gear set will be fine. It's an upgrade over stock anyway, all I lose is the ability to change the cam timing. Not a big deal really.
 
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1BigCarrot

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This was waiting for me when I arrived home :banana-mario:

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Passenger side slugs decarboned & cleaned. Block tapped out i.e. grease tap, in/out block, wash crap off with kero, re-grease tap, rinse & repeat. The most labourious job there is but it needs to be done, oh well, halfway there.

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