Hi there first post for me.
I just wanted to share my experience with this cam in my '97 Suburban.
Before I started the project I did a lot of research to figure out which specs or range of specs would fit my needs.
L31Express's info sure has been helpful with all of his previous work.
I had already installed Gibson shorties and the Jegs Y pipe last fall with good results. Everything fit nicely and installed with ease. The rest of the engine was stock.
I use the truck mostly for towing or if I need to haul something. It's not my daily driver.
I wanted a cam that would work with the stock torque converter, would make good torque from idle up to at least 4500 and would not kill the fuel mileage.
I also wanted it to make a big enough improvement to be worthwhile.
Price and availability was also a factor.
Comp and Howard's have some good options. Comp prices have become ridiculous since they've been able to replenish their stock. Howard's had quite a bit of lead time but were less expensive.
The Summit 8800 seemed to be everything I was looking for.
Decent duration and not too much overlap, and with 1.6 rockers it put me at the valve lift limit of my heads without spending too much on springs and retainers. The price was right and it is ground on a steel core. It would have been nice if the ICL was 108 or so instead of 111.
I used fairly inexpensive comp 981 springs with stock retainers. I replaced the valve seals as well. I measured .520" between the retainer and seal.
My theoretical valve lift is .480 with the Eligin 1.6 rockers. I did have to drill the pushrod holes in the heads out to 1/2.
No drama at all. I used a short drill bit and a right angle drill at the rear so it wail clear the firewall and receiver dryer.
Rags, vacuum and a greasy drill bit keep the contamination under control.
The lifters were in good shape so I reused them. I did use some one piece pushrods but I don't think you have to. The stock length gave the correct pattern on the valve tip.
I installed the Cloyes 9-1157 timing set advanced bringing my ICL to 109 as good as I could measure with the dial indicator on the rocker arm. That old timing chain sure was sloppy!!!
A new Dorman timing cover was used without any leaks so far!!!
I did not have to lower the oil pan. I test fit it a few times to get my method right before applying some really good Loctite RTV SI 598. I scuffed up the bottom of the cover that mated to the oil pan to hold the RTV better. I made sure all surfaces were very clean.
The intake ports and valves were pretty clean. I disassembled the intake manifold and degreased everything.
The poppet nozzles went in the ultrasonic cleaner for a few hours.
I sand blasted the lower intake then got down to business porting it after some evaluation and port measuring with the telescopic snap gauge. The port entry is actually smaller than the middle of the runner! I reworked the port entries and tapered them into the mid runner section. Which is about an 1-1/2 or so down into the runner. From the mid section to head mating flange I mostly left alone except for casting cleanup. The port shape was close to the head entry shape. In my case there wasn't much to gain there. I sand blasted it again after porting and cleaned every little bit out with the pressure washer.
I know I had a bit more than 8 hrs into porting! The manifold design really isn't that bad for the size of engine it was designed for. The runners are about 8" long.
I may upgrade the injectors at a later time. I haven't had any problems with the poppets but I understand there may be improvement in performance due the better atomization of the mini port injectors.
I used the
Intake manifold gasket with the steel core. It looks identical to the Felpro I removed.
I replaced the distributor gear as it was pretty worn. Shimmed the excessive thrust clearance out of it as well.
After reassembling the top end and correctly installing the distributor. I removed the lip on the throttle body blade before cleaning and installing it. It looks like the bore tapers down smaller under the blade. I may disassemble it at a later time and bore that out on the mill. WOT manifold vacuum will tell what's really necessary.
I primed the oil system until I had a steady flow of oil out of the pushrod oil holes in the rockers. It can take quite a while but is an important step.
Since I had to remove the radiator for the cam install, I took the time to clean out the fins and give and give it a back flush internally. I cleaned the condenser out as well. I also decided to convert over to electric fans. I used this controller to run the fans. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCW-DC-0444
I drilled the coolant passage in the intake manifold and used a compression fitting with the supplied probe instead of installing it in the radiator fins. Works great!! It also has an input for the AC cutch to keep the fans on while the AC is running.
After reassembling everything including a new water pump and idler, tensioner pulleys along with a new lower radiator hose and refilling the cooling system.
It was time to fire it up!!! And that it did. No problems at all. I wasn't sure what the ECU would make of it but it wasn't a problem.
I let it warm up and got the air out of the cooling system. Checked for leaks and such.
I adjusted the CMP offset, it was at 5 degrees initially.
I drove it for a few miles around town and everything seemed okay.
I installed the A/F meter in one of down steam O2 fittings to see how the ECU was adapting. I also watched the fuel trims with the Autel scanner. Idle and part throttle were great. Even mid throttle we're all at around 128. Heavy but not full throttle was trimming around 9-12 percent adding. Mixture was still 14.5 or so. No real power enrichment. WOT mixture was great at 12.6 - 12.8. Can't complain about that.
There were a few changes I wanted to make to the ECU. I wanted it to go into power enrichment earlier, change the Speedo calibration and turn off the secondary O2 mil. I knew someone that that had the JET DST so I bought a VIN license and made some changes. Unfortunately during the second reflash it bricked the ECU! Great fun!!!
Anyway, I got a replacement black box from eBay and luckily it started right up.
Next stop 411 upgrade.....
Anyway, I feel it was a definite improvement. More power everywhere and pulls strong up the 5k shift point no problem. No regrets at all.
It works just fine with stock calibration.
Power enrichment tweaks would improve it but this true with the stock cam as well.
I did install a Transgo HD2 kit last winter along with the corvette servo properly shimed. Sure is fun to drive!!!!
I'll update after I get the boat hooked on the back and get it loaded down.
That'll be a few months yet.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Happy trucking,
Jeff
I just wanted to share my experience with this cam in my '97 Suburban.
Before I started the project I did a lot of research to figure out which specs or range of specs would fit my needs.
L31Express's info sure has been helpful with all of his previous work.
I had already installed Gibson shorties and the Jegs Y pipe last fall with good results. Everything fit nicely and installed with ease. The rest of the engine was stock.
I use the truck mostly for towing or if I need to haul something. It's not my daily driver.
I wanted a cam that would work with the stock torque converter, would make good torque from idle up to at least 4500 and would not kill the fuel mileage.
I also wanted it to make a big enough improvement to be worthwhile.
Price and availability was also a factor.
Comp and Howard's have some good options. Comp prices have become ridiculous since they've been able to replenish their stock. Howard's had quite a bit of lead time but were less expensive.
The Summit 8800 seemed to be everything I was looking for.
Decent duration and not too much overlap, and with 1.6 rockers it put me at the valve lift limit of my heads without spending too much on springs and retainers. The price was right and it is ground on a steel core. It would have been nice if the ICL was 108 or so instead of 111.
I used fairly inexpensive comp 981 springs with stock retainers. I replaced the valve seals as well. I measured .520" between the retainer and seal.
My theoretical valve lift is .480 with the Eligin 1.6 rockers. I did have to drill the pushrod holes in the heads out to 1/2.
No drama at all. I used a short drill bit and a right angle drill at the rear so it wail clear the firewall and receiver dryer.
Rags, vacuum and a greasy drill bit keep the contamination under control.
The lifters were in good shape so I reused them. I did use some one piece pushrods but I don't think you have to. The stock length gave the correct pattern on the valve tip.
I installed the Cloyes 9-1157 timing set advanced bringing my ICL to 109 as good as I could measure with the dial indicator on the rocker arm. That old timing chain sure was sloppy!!!
A new Dorman timing cover was used without any leaks so far!!!
I did not have to lower the oil pan. I test fit it a few times to get my method right before applying some really good Loctite RTV SI 598. I scuffed up the bottom of the cover that mated to the oil pan to hold the RTV better. I made sure all surfaces were very clean.
The intake ports and valves were pretty clean. I disassembled the intake manifold and degreased everything.
The poppet nozzles went in the ultrasonic cleaner for a few hours.
I sand blasted the lower intake then got down to business porting it after some evaluation and port measuring with the telescopic snap gauge. The port entry is actually smaller than the middle of the runner! I reworked the port entries and tapered them into the mid runner section. Which is about an 1-1/2 or so down into the runner. From the mid section to head mating flange I mostly left alone except for casting cleanup. The port shape was close to the head entry shape. In my case there wasn't much to gain there. I sand blasted it again after porting and cleaned every little bit out with the pressure washer.
I know I had a bit more than 8 hrs into porting! The manifold design really isn't that bad for the size of engine it was designed for. The runners are about 8" long.
I may upgrade the injectors at a later time. I haven't had any problems with the poppets but I understand there may be improvement in performance due the better atomization of the mini port injectors.
I used the
ULTRA-POWER | MS98000T |
I replaced the distributor gear as it was pretty worn. Shimmed the excessive thrust clearance out of it as well.
After reassembling the top end and correctly installing the distributor. I removed the lip on the throttle body blade before cleaning and installing it. It looks like the bore tapers down smaller under the blade. I may disassemble it at a later time and bore that out on the mill. WOT manifold vacuum will tell what's really necessary.
I primed the oil system until I had a steady flow of oil out of the pushrod oil holes in the rockers. It can take quite a while but is an important step.
Since I had to remove the radiator for the cam install, I took the time to clean out the fins and give and give it a back flush internally. I cleaned the condenser out as well. I also decided to convert over to electric fans. I used this controller to run the fans. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCW-DC-0444
I drilled the coolant passage in the intake manifold and used a compression fitting with the supplied probe instead of installing it in the radiator fins. Works great!! It also has an input for the AC cutch to keep the fans on while the AC is running.
After reassembling everything including a new water pump and idler, tensioner pulleys along with a new lower radiator hose and refilling the cooling system.
It was time to fire it up!!! And that it did. No problems at all. I wasn't sure what the ECU would make of it but it wasn't a problem.
I let it warm up and got the air out of the cooling system. Checked for leaks and such.
I adjusted the CMP offset, it was at 5 degrees initially.
I drove it for a few miles around town and everything seemed okay.
I installed the A/F meter in one of down steam O2 fittings to see how the ECU was adapting. I also watched the fuel trims with the Autel scanner. Idle and part throttle were great. Even mid throttle we're all at around 128. Heavy but not full throttle was trimming around 9-12 percent adding. Mixture was still 14.5 or so. No real power enrichment. WOT mixture was great at 12.6 - 12.8. Can't complain about that.
There were a few changes I wanted to make to the ECU. I wanted it to go into power enrichment earlier, change the Speedo calibration and turn off the secondary O2 mil. I knew someone that that had the JET DST so I bought a VIN license and made some changes. Unfortunately during the second reflash it bricked the ECU! Great fun!!!
Anyway, I got a replacement black box from eBay and luckily it started right up.
Next stop 411 upgrade.....
Anyway, I feel it was a definite improvement. More power everywhere and pulls strong up the 5k shift point no problem. No regrets at all.
It works just fine with stock calibration.
Power enrichment tweaks would improve it but this true with the stock cam as well.
I did install a Transgo HD2 kit last winter along with the corvette servo properly shimed. Sure is fun to drive!!!!
I'll update after I get the boat hooked on the back and get it loaded down.
That'll be a few months yet.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Happy trucking,
Jeff
