96 Burb K1500 Under DownUnder

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1BigCarrot

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Before

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After

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Gotta love the turbo wash machine

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New vs. Old, stamped part number is the same but teeth are quite different - weird. Old chain is stretched to hell, must be the original.

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1BigCarrot

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Ordered Monday from Summit, 3-4 days Priority International Air freight, delivered Friday, would've been Thursday but Fedex don't like leaving parcels on the front door. Oh well, installed like it was meant to be

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Cleaned the reluctor ring

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New Dorman timing cover

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All threads tapped, surfaces cleaned with kero and degreased with acetone

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Bit of a mish climbing into the engine bay without putting my nice "new" head down but I made it . . . twice.

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Rockers cleaned prior to install

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More lube

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Pushrod check

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Lash set, ready for upper intake

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Buttoned up the intake, had dinner, came back out and dropped the dizzy in

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Dizzy took longer than the 5 minutes I thought it would (bout 15min) but long enough for the sun to disappear around 2100hrs.

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Goodnight.
 

1BigCarrot

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Today was a struggle. Way too many hours sitting on top of the engine bay yesterday, cramped over like a chinaman in a rice ***** field. Making way but **** me, had a bad case of butter fingers which made things more difficult than they needed to be, however, it's done. Well almost, kind of, everything's buttoned up, fluids topped off and I'm missing a MAP sensor. The entire build is now waiting on a $10 part to arrive in the mail. Oh well, gives me a chance to get a couple other things done while I wait.

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Headers needed to be relieved somewhat to allow the brackets to be bolted as intended

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You can see the broken sensor sitting in the airbox

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1BigCarrot

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You know your truck is high when you are sitting in the driver's seat talking to the neighbour (standing on his front doorstep) over a six foot high fence :headbang:

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1BigCarrot

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I rose my blood pressure by alot today and yesterday.

Idiot who was supposed to fabricate a mandrel bent 2 1/2 inch true dual system has killed my truck. He has been welding on my vehicle without disconnecting the battery, drained the battery dead flat somehow, and melted something somewhere. Ecu fuse blows immediately after turning the key. There is a dead short somewhere and auto-electrician is having trouble finding it. To make things worse, said idiot blames me, and then wants twice what he quoted me. Not sure how I am to blame. I drove the vehicle there and left it the day before yesterday when it was running. Some people should not be in business.

since I posted this here it turns out, the fuel injection circuit got fried. So my brand new spider and factory pcm is useless.

No.5 wire on the spider got so hot it embedded itself into the fuel tube. Lucky it didn't go boom or start a fire.

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passenger side muffler bracket welded to chassis

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driver side muffler bracket also welded to chassis & two bolts in one hole

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I can't remember where I learnt it (probably my Grandfather) "never try to understand an idiot, you'll only waste your time". This rule applies to the exhaust currently on my truck, which FTR is not staying. It's loud, it resonates like hell and the workmanship is *****. The asshat who did this deserves a whack.
 

1BigCarrot

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I installed the bds UCA's for our truck (big thanks to Jeff & Erin @ Rockridge 4WD, great service from them. BDS has nice parts but there service is *****.) which solved my positive camber issue. I wasn't aware that they were needed when swapping out the factory knuckle for the BDS 6" lifted NBS knuckles for the upgrade to NBS brakes. Wheel alignment came out ok, except for the misaligned steering wheel - tech said he didn't have enough adjustment in the TRE's.

Due to our rules here, I cannot use the modified centre/drag link that some of the 6" lift kits use (Rancho, Rough Country etc). Hence me buying the BDS lifted knuckles to use with the factory centre/drag link. However, because the truck already had the Rancho lift on it, (run whatcha brung) now the driver side TRE hits the front diff, limiting the RH turning circle :banghead:


I downloaded the BDS lift instructions and actually read them this time rather than skimming them. Couple more things I learnt: 1. UCA's are side specific but are not stamped/labelled on the part nor identified in the packaging. 2. BDS recommends trimming the tie rod adjusters by a half inch each end - hopefully this will solve the steering wheel adjustment issue.


I mentioned earlier in the thread that I had the truck in at a "reputable shop" where I knew someone and they replaced one BJ and told me the other BJ's were good (I discovered later that they were all toast - lazy or liar?). They must have used a cheap ****** one as it is now toast. I've barely driven this thing - so wtf?? :banghead:

Just to add to my frustration, when trying to adjust the park brake cable, the adjuster nut decides to seize and round off - FFS :Angry:


So, here it sits again while we wait for the postman to deliver our parts from Rockridge4wd & Rockauto

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DirtBag

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How did it run with the new cam, rockers and tune? I love your attention to detail and you definitely have some skills. Well done!
 

1BigCarrot

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Not sure yet mate as I haven't really driven it. It has a few small niggly gremlins that I'm working through so it's hard to just jump in and enjoy it. I've only just installed the BB pcm as the factory one won't run/idle correctly anymore after having the high welding current through it.
So other than starting and it idling, I can't really answer your question. I replaced the spider, plugs and pcm just to get to start and idle correctly. It does have a nice/different lope tho, which is what I was after without going to an aggressive cam.

With the upgraded rubber I need to re-gear it and get the trans serviced. Might be a little while before I "know" what it runs like, this ***** never ends :cheers: While I wait for parts (takes about two weeks to arrive once ordered/paid for - oh the joy of living at the bottom of the globe) at least it gives me a chance to plan for the other upgrades to make my life a little easier.
 

1BigCarrot

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It's been awhile since I updated the thread.

Can't remember where I got the idea for these steps but it's a combination of what you can buy out there. I just have the tools and materials to make my own, I prefer "Built not Bought"

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Finally got everything I needed to start tigging. I spent a bit of time on youtube refreshing the good ole "how to". It's been over two decades since I've done any tigging. Big thanks to Jody @ weldingtipsandtricks.com for all the helpful videos.

I bought 180* bends (2.5" & 3" dia) and the x-pipe is 2.5"

I've used a 3" x 14"L resonator from each header into 3" all the way to the x-pipe
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You can see where I have formed the cone to have the 3" butt join the 2.5" x-pipe
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