xXxPARAGONxXx’s 1999 Chevrolet K2500 Crew Cab

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xXxPARAGONxXx

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Each side of the dashboard sits and pivots on a “slit flange bearing”. (Slit flange bearings are also used for the brake pedal and transfer case shift lever.) This is what one of mine currently looks like for the dashboard.

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Rough shape. I think I tossed the other one. Unfortunately, I don't believe they are available anymore (GM P/N 15720119) unless one gets very lucky finding a NOS seller.

So, took some measurements of the remaining one. The bearing is about 12 mm long. Inside bore is for an 8 mm shaft, as the bearing actually sits on top of a threaded stud (as seen in the photo) which is M8 x 1.25 mm thread. Outside diameter is 10 mm.

Went to McMaster-Carr to see what I could find. If I could find an exact slit flange bearing, I'd buy it, but didn't find one. Instead, found a light duty dry-running sleeve bearing made of nylon, P/N 6389K711.

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It has a bore (shaft) diameter of 6mm and outside (housing) diameter of 10 mm. Length is actually 16 mm.

So, the bore is 2 mm too small, one would think. But, what I plan to do is actually tap the inside to M8 x 1.25 mm thread, that way I can actually thread the bearing onto the stud. And the 6 mm bore gives me just enough plastic to thread into. Would not be possible if it was a 7-8 mm bore.

Should be here on Thursday. I'll pop them into the vise and tap them. They are $10.43 a piece (ouch!) so I have to make sure I take my time and don't screw them up.
 
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xXxPARAGONxXx

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So, I tried tapping the nylon product I bought from McMaster Carr, but the job didn't turn out good.

I contacted Cunningham Machine on Friday, 10/20, to see if they could machine a product out of Delrin. I spoke to Jeremy. He didn't hesitate to accept the job. Not only did Cunningham Machine machine them the same day, the quality is perfect, they even shipped the same day, and I received them today.

Thank you @Cunningham Machine. Well done.

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chasw44

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I have a 97 green one ton single rear wheel one of these with 22k on it setting since I bought it in 98. It was a flood truck from hempstead north of houston. The complete electrics are so corroded it needs a complete everything. In 98 the harness was to expensive at the dealer and really the counter guys were afraid to try and order the harness parts because they said there were so many different parts to the harness it would probably not be the right ones, so it was waiting till I could go take it all out of a salvage truck which never happened. My final thoughts was just to do a painless harness. Is is the plain jane model so no electric motors or doorlocks. The fuel lines were even ruined so I bought new ones from the dealer and a used gastank with a good pump inside. The motor needed a 30 over bore to clean up. That was a complete rebuild with a mild fi cam and will be my second ramjet only with 4 bolt mains cause it is a oneton motor. The steering column was so corroded the tilt lever was broken off when I got it. The salvage dealer in waco lied and said it was only a few days out of the water but on inspection after he deliverd it and I discovered the motor was stuck and the cab only had two body mounts still holding it on the frame, I decided the truck had been run through the auction more than once. The seat frames were already sprinkling rust on the rubber floor mats. I removed the insulation under the mats and dried it out it was still damp. The body metal was not rusted inside. When I was cleaning it up there was mud even under the rubber door seals at the top of the drivers door. Even the front wheel bearings showed small rust pits. The rear axle showed signs of water inside but someone had already cleaned that up and the ring and pinion seemed ok. This was the biggest mistake in all of my auto buying of my life. At first I bought a used ac control panel and few few other small dash items but I finally stored the seats and radiator and all of the accessorie drive parts in the bed under a bed cap and the rest inside the cab but thats where it sets. The ac compressor is still all hooked up under the hood though, I didn't see any reason to take that apart. I thought about putting a 500 caddy and its 400 turbo tranny in it for a tow truck that I have but my other trucks always did a good enough job.
You have a good starting point with your truck good luck.
 

xXxPARAGONxXx

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I have a 97 green one ton single rear wheel one of these with 22k on it setting since I bought it in 98. It was a flood truck from hempstead north of houston. The complete electrics are so corroded it needs a complete everything. In 98 the harness was to expensive at the dealer and really the counter guys were afraid to try and order the harness parts because they said there were so many different parts to the harness it would probably not be the right ones, so it was waiting till I could go take it all out of a salvage truck which never happened. My final thoughts was just to do a painless harness. Is is the plain jane model so no electric motors or doorlocks. The fuel lines were even ruined so I bought new ones from the dealer and a used gastank with a good pump inside. The motor needed a 30 over bore to clean up. That was a complete rebuild with a mild fi cam and will be my second ramjet only with 4 bolt mains cause it is a oneton motor. The steering column was so corroded the tilt lever was broken off when I got it. The salvage dealer in waco lied and said it was only a few days out of the water but on inspection after he deliverd it and I discovered the motor was stuck and the cab only had two body mounts still holding it on the frame, I decided the truck had been run through the auction more than once. The seat frames were already sprinkling rust on the rubber floor mats. I removed the insulation under the mats and dried it out it was still damp. The body metal was not rusted inside. When I was cleaning it up there was mud even under the rubber door seals at the top of the drivers door. Even the front wheel bearings showed small rust pits. The rear axle showed signs of water inside but someone had already cleaned that up and the ring and pinion seemed ok. This was the biggest mistake in all of my auto buying of my life. At first I bought a used ac control panel and few few other small dash items but I finally stored the seats and radiator and all of the accessorie drive parts in the bed under a bed cap and the rest inside the cab but thats where it sets. The ac compressor is still all hooked up under the hood though, I didn't see any reason to take that apart. I thought about putting a 500 caddy and its 400 turbo tranny in it for a tow truck that I have but my other trucks always did a good enough job.
You have a good starting point with your truck good luck.
Damn. I'm sorry to hear that. Sounds like a nightmare. I know you said you it is a 97 purchased in 98. I just hope you didn't have to pay that much for it. Sheesh.
 

xXxPARAGONxXx

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Got a dash today, from Michigan. Still have some work to do inside the truck, so not going to install it yet. Also need to remove IP harness and install my stock one onto this dash. Anyway, glad to finally check this off the to-do list.
 
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xXxPARAGONxXx

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Got the IP harness off the replacement dash. Got my old harness just about ready to transplant. Just need to buy some foam strips from Home Depot to place on certain spots on the harness. Need to replace the door ajar switches on each side of the dash, and I think it'll be ready to be put on.

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HotWheelsBurban

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Should I install dash savers to prevent the three mounting locations at the top of the dash from breaking? Do the dash savers work good?
Not sure(my trucks are too far gone there) but for the time and $$ you have in the swap, and the truck...if I was doing it, I'd use them. When my boys get new dashes I will use them.
 
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