Wheel Cylinder, Hydroboost, Master Cylinder and other fun things...

[2TooManyTrucks]

So... The rear axle had a dragging feeling like the truck was stuck in 4wd. A quick inspection returned two obvious issues, a fluid leak under the hood (source undetected at this point - assumed master cylinder) that dripped down the driver side frame rail and a VERY hot passenger side rear drum.


Removing the rear drum revealed the pads to be in good shape but this was obviously not right (Left wheel cylinder piston):

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The wheel cylinder is not leaking but I've never seen one slip the piston out of the shoe detent like that.
I untangled the piston from the other brake hardware, cleaned everything and put it back together.


Everything seemed ok after a couple short test drives.


Took it for a 25 mile drive the other day. Still felt right, brakes seemed to work correctly and it wasn't dragging like it had been before.
However, when I got home, I checked the drums and the passenger side was burning up again (driver side was warm but normal).

I then opened the hood to see if the leak had gotten any worse. It had:

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Now the question for all you experts...

Do I replace the hydroboost, the master cylinder, the wheel cylinder, brake hardware, or all the above?

 

[meterman]

Was it brake fluid or power steering fluid


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[2TooManyTrucks]

Not sure I can tell the difference and neither was low.

However, based on the odd steering I experienced tonight, I'm guessing it's power steering fluid.

What I'm wondering is if the craziness with the rear wheel cylinder is related to the hydroboost or if it just happened to be at the same time?


It's only $400 for the booster, master cylinder, wheel cylinder, and a hard parts kit.

I think I may just replace everything.

The hard part will be getting around the lift block to remove the wheel cylinder, the next hard part will be getting the wife to help me long enough to bleed all 4 corners!

 

[2TooManyTrucks]

New hydroboost
New Master Cylinder
New wheel cylinders (both sides)
New brake parts kits (springs etc both sides)


Still sticks and gets hot on the passenger side.

Just replaced the adjuster on that side and the the rubber hose that feeds the metal lines on the rear axle.

Running out of ideas....

 

[grampadirt]

Jack the rear up and spin the wheels,see if the pass. side is harder to spin.If it is you might have the shoes a little too tight.Try backing off on the star adjuster some.Should have only a little drag.It's somewhere to start......

 

[Ironhead]

I always found it tough to get help bleeding the brakes, so I ended up with a vacuum bleeder (a Mityvac), and I love it.

 

[Tavi]

Often times the rubber holes break down and get clogged. I've experienced this a few times. What will happen is you are strong enough to push fluid past the clog. But the brakes are not strong enough to return it. Leading to a stuck brake. Once the brake cools enough to work with, the fluid has cooled as well contracting enough get the drum off.

I have never experienced it on the rear. So the clog could have been pushed from the rubber line to hard line on your passenger side.

Other possible culprits could be the parking brake or wheel bearing. I have seen the bearing myself, causing enough heat to fool the owner into believing it was the brake.

 

[2TooManyTrucks]

It was the M#!$#@ @*&#^!% parking brake cable!

It had just enough resistance in it that it wasn't fully releasing and allowing the adjuster arm to raise. The adjuster was doing it's job and adjusting out every time I hit the brakes.

Oh well, it needed new springs and wheel cylinders anyway.