What is this plug, and issues with idle.

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Elhorn

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Greetings, All

I've lurked this forum for quite some time, never had a whole lot of problems with my own truck, but now I need some help.

My truck is an all original 1989 C1500 with the 5.7 and 700r4 auto trans. It's just about to hit 124k miles and was maintained exceptionally by the previous owner, with maintenance records from the very day he drove it off the lot. I have continued this record.

The problem started with a coolant leak, back passenger side of the intake, this infamous heater core fitting had failed. When i tried to remove it, of course, it broke, requiring me to remove the intake to remove the rapidly disintegrating "metal" piece that remained. I've done this before on my project cars, and in fact just swapped the factory intake for a performance one on my El Comino the week prior, but had never done so on a TBI engine. It wasn't a huge problem getting the job done, and the truck ran fine for a couple of weeks there-after. This, I think, is not the source of the problem, just something that happened shortly before my current problem arose.

About a week prior to my current problem I decided to put some new mufflers on the truck, I tired of the glass packs that where on it. Went to the muffler shop, had them installed, no problems. A couple days later, at work, coming back from lunch the truck nearly died at a stop light, and then ran poorly there after. On the way home it bucked and shook like crazy, no odd noises or anything like that, just shaking very bad at part throttle.

I believed that I didn't have the timing set 100% correct, as I didn't have a timing light, but the lines on the distributor and intake had all lined up when I reinstalled it after taking the intake off. So I ordered up a timing light and got that set, this did not solve the problem, so I hit my service manual up and pulled codes, 33 and 34, pointing to MAP sensor. Tested the MAP sensor, and it checked out fine, put a known good one on, same thing. Cleaned the EGR valve, testing the TPS, cleaned the IAC, installed a new distributor, wires, coil, checked the plugs, they're iridium and are clean.

I've set timing to 0 degrees with the wire disconnected, and then at my father's recommendation, 2, 4, and 8 degrees before and after TDC, with no change in how the engine runs. It runs fine at highway speeds, but you let off the gas it stumbles, tries to die at stop lights but only just after stopping, once it recovers it runs fine at idle, till you have to let off the gas again. Sitting in park or neutral with my foot lightly on the gas it acts like it's flooding out or getting too much gas and surges badly.

So I started poking around and noticed I left this plug
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unplugged. but I cannot seem to find what it plugs in to.

I stopped by the dealership to see if they could direct me to what it goes in to, but they where unable to find anything either. The wire color is pink or purple.
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It it not energized with the key off, but reads voltage with the key on. I believe it runs to some sensor, but cannot seem to find out what one.

Finally, throughout all my testing and part swapping, I read the codes again, after clearing them and driving it for a bit to see if it will set another code, and the only code I have now is code 34.

Any help would be appreciated, this is my only vehicle with a working AC and it's summer time in Texas!
 

PlayingWithTBI

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If it's purple it could be the O2 sensor or the MAP sensor. Look at the back of the driver's side exhaust manifold, you should find the O2 sensor and the purple wire.

If you're getting code 34 - MAP Sensor look for it on the passenger side of the throttle body, it's a 3-wire connector.
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Dover

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My 90 has the same loose wire not connected to anything and runs fine so I don’t think that’s it. You said you pulled the intake, did you do the relearn on the IAC when you put the TB back on? Mine ran like crap after a TB rebuild until I found the procedure for that.


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Elhorn

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Thanks for the replies, it's not O2 or MAP sensor. both of those appear to be working correctly, as in they have voltage going to them and appear to read what they should be during testing.


I did not do a relearn on the IAC, I will see what I can find for that.
 

Elhorn

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Alright, so I found a couple of things on resetting the IAC, which I did, with no effect.

I've resorted to testing other sensors that I haven't tested prior to today and have found that the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor is reading an closed short. I'm going to replace this and see what happens. It does seem logical to believe that this could be the problem, as it is far more prevalent when the engine is warm, and doesn't appear to have this problem when the engine is cold. For instance, the first stop light I come to on my morning commute, less than a quarter mile from my home, truck is fine, but by the time I get to the second light, or even the yield sign on to the freeway, the truck starts to run more and more poorly.

I'll report back if this solves my problem.

Thanks for the help so far.
 

Schurkey

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Misfire or just plain "poor running" will screw with the vacuum created by the engine. Screwy vacuum might set a MAP sensor code. 34 seems to be a "high vacuum" code, so the cause may be something else.



As usual, "I" would put a proper scan tool on this vehicle, and look at the data stream. The data stream will tell you which sensors are providing "normal" input, and which are giving goofy input.

Goofy sensor data can be a defective sensor, or a reaction to some other root cause. The trick is to compare sensor readings to see if a common fault is creating bum readings from two or more sensors.

Makes more sense than just replacing crap at random.
 
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Elhorn

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Sorry for the late reply, my internet went down yesterday.

It was the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. It was shorted when warm. Popped a new one in, problem solved.

As to why it was setting a code 34? No idea. I didn't believe it was an issue with the MAP sensor to begin with, but that was the code the ECU was giving me, so I had to run with it. It was my own mistake for not checking all sensors related to how the engine runs as to why it took me so long, and caused me quite a bit of frustration. Looking back it was almost obvious it was related to engine temp.

Schurkey, I wasn't aware of a scan tool for OBD1, do you have a recommendation for such a tool? That would sure come in handy. My other vehicles don't have computers and I find them to be far easier to work on because of it.
 

cookseyb

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If the coolant sensor is bad the ECU thinks it is -50 degrees and adds fuel like mad once it gets warm the fuel air mix is too rich. Should help you mileage too..since you fixes it
 
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