UCA bushings misaligned?

[Jlamp]

Long time listener, first time caller.

I just put a whole new front end under my k2500, including an Energy Suspension poly bushing kit. As you can see in my photos the Upper control arm bushings are kind of scrunched to one side. Using silicone grease I was able to push the bushings into the shells by hand, I had a harder time getting the old reused metal innards to go back together nicely.

Is this going to be an issue? I can't hear any of the bushings squeaking while I am driving, but they do make noise if you really push down on the bumper.

I've also done the alignment on this rig myself, and I've been unable to get camber less than 0 or get enough caster for it to drive nice. It doesn't pull to one side or the other going down the road but it takes a lot of steering just to keep it straight going down the freeway (didn't do this before adjusting camber/caster). Is this related?

 

[Schurkey]

Do you have usable inner sleeves to go with the re-used outer shells?

When I did my truck, the original inner sleeves were horribly rusted. Since the inner sleeves are going to be locked in place by the through-bolt, while the bushing spins with suspension movement, the inner sleeve OD has to be fairly pristine or the inside of the bushing will wear quickly.

Energy Suspension doesn't include new inner sleeves for the upper control arms with the bushing insert kits. They do provide inner sleeves for the lower arms, but not the uppers.

I had to fabricate new sleeves for my truck. Some guys have bought new rubber bushings, then carved away the rubber to salvage the "new" sleeves for use with Poly bushings.

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As for needing a lot of steering correction when driving on the highway--what is your toe setting? Too much toe makes the vehicle unstable in a straight line.

My '88 K1500 needed a lot of steering correction, but that was due to the rotted-out rag joint. Replaced the steering shaft with the failed rag joint with the U-jointed shaft from a C3500; all that sloppy steering went away. That solution doesn't work for trucks with SRS (air bags) though.

 

[Jlamp]

I was able to reuse two of my inner sleeves, and the other two were looked like yours so I gutted new ones. from a new moog bushing set. (The O’Reilly’s store brand used a different OD sleeve).

I set my toe as close as I could to 0.

What difference does air bags make for swapping out the rag joint? I suspect I’ll be doing the same upgrade before too ha.

 

[Schurkey]

I was able to reuse two of my inner sleeves, and the other two were looked like yours so I gutted new ones. from a new moog bushing set. (The O’Reilly’s store brand used a different OD sleeve).

I don't have a good photo to post. Mine look about like yours as far as the control arm installed in the frame brackets.

Is that a Matco ratchet in your first photo? Locking flex-head?

I set my toe as close as I could to 0.

As long as your measurement is accurate, that should be OK. I think I'd prefer just a hint of toe-in.

What difference does air bags make for swapping out the rag joint? I suspect I’ll be doing the same upgrade before too ha.

The "air bag" steering column has a U-joint higher up, inside the cab. When used with the C3500 shaft, the two joints on the new shaft, combined with the joint on the steering column, could get misaligned and cause steering problems.

Some folks have added a support in-between to prevent the triple-jointed assembly from getting out of alignment.

If you're going to do this, do it quick. GM discontinued the steering shaft; so unless you can find old stock, you'll be forced to use the Communist Chinese replacement from Dorman.