Torque converter options, 4L60e in a 99 Sub

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redfishsc

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I'm suspecting a new Trans in is my future and I'll probably have it rebuilt locally a shift kit installed but I also want to look at TC options.

I re-geared the rear end to 4.10 (from 3.42) so that's something to take into consideration. It really does make this truck more drivable around town.


What sort of TC should I consider if I want better acceleration getting into interstate on-ramps and leaving traffic lights? Obviously I'm not drag racing anyone but I'm wanting to give this old beast every opportunity to drive like a lighter vehicle.

I'm definitely NOT interested is stuff that will make this thing undriveable for my wife lol, sometimes this is her family hauler.


I don't particularly care about fuel economy, even swapping to a 4.10 didn't change it in any noticeable way. I do occasionally tow a camper that probably weighs around 2500lbs, and occasionally make 3-5 hour drives at 70+mph, but most driving is 35-55mph local roads and stoplights.
 

redfishsc

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By the way the engine is in great shape at 234k miles.

5.7L, heads are hardly 2 years old (stock reman), new lifters, MPFI injector upgrade. I NEVER need to add oil between changes. Oil is always 5w30 Penn Platinum, changed every 9 months or so.
 

L31MaxExpress

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The one you want comes in a 99 S10 4.3. Converter code is DCNF. Has the "2075 rpm" K-factor. Stalls around 2,500 when you floor it and drives almost stock at light throttle.

My brothers 99 Suburban had a F-car roller cam, 1.6 rockers, ported lower intake manifold, long tubes, obnoxiously loud 2.25" true dual exhaust with high flow spun cats and a Volant intake. S10 converter, transgo shift kit and Sonnax billet 2nd and 4th gear servos. Even with 3.42s it had no issues getting out of its own way on an uphill ramp.

What it drove like at light throttle, stock manifolds, cats and exhaust in this clip.
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This was jumping on it from a stop to 80 mph on an uphill ramp merging onto the 85 mph traffic on the toll road. 0-40 was very quick. 3.42 G80 rear. Long tubes and the annoyingly loud exhaust lol. The loud snap during the 1-2 shift was 40% torque reduction for shift torque management retarding the ignition timing to TDC for 0.3 seconds during the shift, killing engine power during the shift, keeping the 4L60E alive. I swear he drove that truck WOT everywhere and it somehow stayed together.

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FWIW over about 40 mph at steady speeds the converter will not change fuel economy at all. Might even help it a little around town. Less load on the engine idling in gear at a stop light and less load on the engine taking off from a stop even though it will essentially frewheel a little more and rev up a little quicker from a stop. After a week or two of driving it, it felt normal. I raised his idle speed a little in the tuning to 750 rpm. Helped keep the 105a alternator charging with the a/c blowers blasting and kept the a/c colder as well as eliminated that little dead spot where the the truck would not roll forward when you took your foot off the brake.
 
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redfishsc

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Ok, great video by the way thanks!

Seems odd putting an S10 part on a Suburban but I know it bolts right up.

What really baffles me is why these 4L60s seem to be far less reliable in the S10/Blazers than in big Suburbans.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Ok, great video by the way thanks!

Seems odd putting an S10 part on a Suburban but I know it bolts right up.

What really baffles me is why these 4L60s seem to be far less reliable in the S10/Blazers than in big Suburbans.

Not sure, underpowered causing the converter to stay unlocked. That being said my 350 powered 97 Express van ate the stock one at 38K and a well built 4L65E spec one 40K later. At 78K threw a 4L85E into it and have not looked back at those POS transmissions.
 

jdla140

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x2 on the 4.3 converter. I put one from a 98 blazer in a 99 silverado with a 5.3, was an absolute blast to drive compared to stock.
 
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