Throttle Body rebuild

[PlayingWithTBI]

Question is, is a bath in Chem-Dip overkill? Or just stick with a good cleaning using an aerosol cleaner?

A can of Brake and Parts Cleaner, wire brush, and compressed air, should be sufficient for the hard parts (unless they're totally gunked up) but, the injectors need to be professionally serviced, as mentioned above.

 

[89RCLB]

I've always just used non-chlorinated Brake-Kleen in the past but this one is kinda grungy.

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[GoToGuy]

You could pull the injectors out, then get a drain pan , gallon of mineral spirits, some small solvent proof brushes and larger one. Then go for it. Use brake cleaner after for the " ooh shiny " finish.

 

[Schurkey]

Gonna rebuild the TBI on my GMC this weekend. Question is, is a bath in Chem-Dip overkill? Or just stick with a good cleaning using an aerosol cleaner?

Why are you "rebuilding" the TBI? Unlike carburetors, they rarely need much more than external cleaning, and perhaps a fresh diaphragm and gasket for the pressure regulator. Wear to the throttle-shaft "bushing" area is possible, but repair is not for the faint-of-heart. DO NOT twist-off the staked throttle plate screws. Grind the staked/distorted bottom of the screw before trying to remove it.

The injectors are not known for plugging; although anything is possible. Use of Top Tier fuel, and a bottle of Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner at every oil change will likely be all that's needed in terms of the injectors and unwanted deposits. The TBI injectors have much larger orifices than individual port injectors.

A can of Brake and Parts Cleaner

I've always just used non-chlorinated Brake-Kleen in the past

Use brake cleaner after for the " ooh shiny " finish.

I don't understand using brake cleaner, when aerosol carb cleaner, or aerosol throttle-body cleaner would be far more effective.

 

[GrimsterGMC]

Why are you "rebuilding" the TBI? Unlike carburetors, they rarely need much more than external cleaning, and perhaps a fresh diaphragm and gasket for the pressure regulator. Wear to the throttle-shaft "bushing" area is possible, but repair is not for the faint-of-heart. DO NOT twist-off the staked throttle plate screws. Grind the staked/distorted bottom of the screw before trying to remove it.

The injectors are not known for plugging; although anything is possible. Use of Top Tier fuel, and a bottle of Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner at every oil change will likely be all that's needed in terms of the injectors and unwanted deposits. The TBI injectors have much larger orifices than individual port injectors.






I don't understand using brake cleaner, when aerosol carb cleaner, or aerosol throttle-body cleaner would be far more effective.

"DO NOT twist-off the staked throttle plate screws." Definitely beware of these pesky screws, I wasn't aware they were rounded off on the back and unfortunately broke two of them but there was just eneough thread left to screw back in but had to Loctite them to make sure they never got sucked through engine later. The worn shafts are a real problem for vacuum leaks and getting the idle position consistent since they move around so much.

 

[89RCLB]

Why are you "rebuilding" the TBI?

Because it's rather filthy so I decided to pull it rather than try to clean it up in place. It will get a more thorough cleaning off of the vehicle.
I figured it wouldn't hurt to rebuild it while it's off, the kit is cheap and it's not a difficult job.

I don't understand using brake cleaner

Brake-Kleen has always worked well for me in the past, although I've never dealt with one quite this grungy. I very well may have to use throttle body/carb cleaner for this one.

 

[GoToGuy]

I would use carb cleaner myself or a dip in Berrymans parts cleaner. I only mentioned the brakecleen as I presumed that what he had and was familiar with. And from his post I gather is not very experienced.

 

[Schurkey]

"Dip" cleaners have gone dramatically down-hill. They're now so "eco-friendly" that they don't work. Berryman's has two kinds of "dip", the "good" kind, "905" in a plain, red-white-blue pail; and the modern, worthless stuff (996) in a bright, colorful "consumer-oriented" attractive pail. [Edit] Product/pail color scheme may have changed. BE CAREFUL what you buy.[/Edit]

My understanding--and I could be wrong--is that the big-deal active ingredient is Methylene Chloride; which 905 has and 996 does not. The "non-chlorinated" cleaner is the crappy stuff, and surely not available in California.

(Note the size and price difference in these two pails)
www.amazon.com/Berryman-Chem-Dip-Professional-Parts-Cleaner/dp/B0002KKIHS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2SEBHVTXIZX2G

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www.amazon.com/Berryman-Products-0996-Arm-Chemical-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B077Y1YSZ5/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2SEBHVTXIZX2G

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[GoToGuy]

I think, or if I remember correctly we had a parts cleaner like a chest freezer. You hung parts in it. The liquid below was heated and vapor would rise to condensate on the parts hanging on the rack. The upper area had cooling coils forcing the vapor to condensate and not rise above the parts. Parts cleaning no scrubbing, labor saving. At least that was the theory.
The great idea is , you could use strong " solvents" without having to submerge parts in liquid. Great for sensitive or electrical operated, controlled.
There was some issue about emissions or liquid cancer chemicals. California EPA just takes all fun out of mechanical life.

 

[udidwht]

Have a rebuild kit (Delco) for my TBI 220 that I'm contemplating rebuilding before my next RV outing this summer. Oh heck, why not. I'll do it given it's even easier than carbs (no small air passages). Essentially just the base gasket and the regulator gasket and that's it.